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Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

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Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#26

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

Don McConnell

>Roderick, et al:

Some days ago, you asked:

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"During the 18th century, how would a cabinetmaker produce your typical swan neck (goose neck) molding found on queen anne highboys?

If gouges were used:

1. Would he have used firmer gouges or carving gouges?

2. Would the gouges have been "in" or "out" cannel?

Would any other tools have been used?"

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Though you've gotten some interesting responses, I've been thinking about your questions and finally concluded that it might be useful to attempt a more thorough-going response.

In the first instance, I believe the majority of these swan's neck mouldings would have been produced by carvers rather than cabinetmakers. Especially in the urban areas, there was some degree of specialization in the 18th century, and a part of the commercial scene consisted of specialty woodworkers (carvers, turners, etc.) supplying other woodworkers with the products of their respective trades. This is re-enforced, I believe, by considering the tools and process by which these mouldings were likely produced.

While these mouldings would not have required the precision necessary to provide suitable bonding surfaces/fit desirable for joinery, they do require enough regularity that one's eye is first drawn to their "fair" curves and symmetry. Closer study might reveal slight irregularities, but the effect is spoilt if those are the first thing to attract attention. So, these mouldings, I believe, would have been undertaken using a fairly systematic and regulated method. An approach which has analogies in producing straight mouldings through the use of H&R's as well as in traditional carving techniques.

Rather than simply wade in with gouges approximating the final profile, I believe the carver would have first executed one or more rabbet(s) to define key elements and dimensions of the profile. The margins of each rabbet, in turn, would be laid out with a pair of dividers and/or a marking gauge, then a gouge of appropriate size and sweep could be used to quickly remove the bulk of the waste - stopping just short of the gauge lines.

The gouge would be driven with a mallet where possible, paying close attention to the inevitable grain reversals. It may be tempting to think that this would require a firmer gouge, but I don't think so. One of the characteristics of the traditional carving tools (at least as they developed in the 19th century), was that they have a fineness at the cutting edge conducive to delicate work when required, yet they have an overall robustness which allows them to be driven with a mallet. As long as one keeps them sharp and doesn't pry with them, they can be quite readily driven with a mallet for quick material removal. I haven't had the opportunity to examine many 18th century carving gouges, but those shown in a photo by Gaynor and Hagedorn (_Tools: Working Wood in Eighteenth-Century America_) appear to be generally similar to 19th century gouges. This first step in producing each rabbet can be seen as an analogy to grounding or relief cuts in other forms of carving.

The next step in producing each rabbet would be to select a slow gouge for "setting-in" the inside sweep of the curved gauge line. For this, the gouge is held so that the bevel is vertical (and the axis of the gouge at an angle), at first just inside the gauge line, then pushed downward to separate the waste left by the previous gouge cuts. One wants to match the sweep of the gouge to the gauge line as closely as possible, but it wants to be a little "quicker" than the gauge line if a perfect match isn't possible. For the outside sweep of the gauge line, a very slow gouge may work for setting-in, but a chisel may need to be used if a gouge with a slow enough sweep isn't available. Then, the same can be done with the gauge line defining the floor of the rabbet, using a chisel. I like using a firmer chisel for this, but my hunch is that traditional carvers would have used their carving chisels. At the end, the gouge(s) and chisel can be used to clean up the wall and floor of the rabbet to their corresponding gauge lines.

Once the major dimensions and elements have been defined by these rabbets, the "modeling" of the moulding can be undertaken.

If the primary element is a scotia, or a cove, as many of them seem to be, a good deal of the remaining waste can be cut away using a chisel of appropriate width. Depending on how quick the overall sweep of the moulding is, one may have to resort to a curved or a bent (spoon) chisel to get into some areas of the inside sweep. The same goes for the gouge selected to accomplish the final profile of the scotia or cove. If the limits of this feature have been determined with relative accuracy and clairty, a gouge of appropriate sweep can quickly bring it, essentially, to its final profile.

If there are "convex" elements to the profile, such as a bead, this is where the small inside bevel on carving gouges comes into play. The primary thing this small bevel accomplishes is to allow the gouge to be turned over and used "upside-down" to form convex shapes. Again, chisels can be used to create defining chamfers and remove the bulk of the waste, but a carving gouge of appropriate sweep, used in this fashion, will help bring it to final form. I do not know if back-bent gouges were around in the 18th century, but they can be very useful for this purpose on inside portions of sweeps of curved mouldings.

As can be seen, this method requires a variety of gouge sweeps and forms, unlikely to be owned by the average cabinetmaker, to execute this work in a direct and workmanlike manner. The same might be accomplished with more typical bench gouges and chisels, but I believe it would be much less efficient.

Final clean-up of these mouldings may have to remain more conjectural. The carver may have used a "mould" (template) to check the consistency of the moulding throughout its length, and make any desired adjustments with appropriate gouges before resorting to scrapers and/or abrasives to eliminate any remaining tool marks.

Hope this has been of some interest.

Don McConnell

Eureka Springs, AR

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#27

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

Roderick Drumgoole

>Don,

Thanks for such a detailed thorough response! I gleaned many new ideas from your dialogue, but also new questions have arisen.

1. What exactly is a "slow gouge"?

2. How does one form a rabbet with curved profiles? Perhaps I am too inexperienced at this point to invision the "grounding" techniques that carvers use which you touched upon.

Roderick

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#28

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

john jesseph

>I hoped Don would comment. I read an article by someone in Fine Woodworking a long time ago about doing this. The rabbets were formed by first setting in- following the layout line on the face with a series of vertical cuts pounded into the stock with a heavy 1/4 inch wide firmer chisel. Then the waste was removed from the side with a heavy and wide firmer chisel. Alternating top to side, the appropriate depth was achieved. I am making a gooseneck molding in a few weeks, using a router, but I will give a try with this technique and see how it goes.

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#29

What is a firmer gouge? Can you point to a photo?

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#30

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

Don McConnell

>Roderick, John et al

Regarding the "slow gouge/sweep" terminology, I was referring to a gouge with relatively little curvature across the width of its cutting edge. I'm attaching a small chart of sweeps #3 thru #9, of 1 inch gouges, as standardized in the London Pattern (Sheffield List) system. In it, the #3 gouge has the "slowest sweep," while the # 9 gouge has the "quickest sweep." Hopefully, this will convey the idea more clearly than more text.

Regarding the curved rabbet and my passing reference to "grounding cuts", let's assume that you want to define the location (vertically and horizontally) of the center of the arc of a cove. That can be done by creating a rabbet of uniform depth and width, following the curvature of the moulding. The vertical wall of the rabbet can be gauged with a pair of dividers set to the proper width, and the horizontal floor can be gauged with a marking gauge, as an example. (This assumes that the material is laying flat on your bench.)

You will now have a gauge line on the upper flat surface of the material, and another gauge line along the curved edge of the material. You can then use a quick gouge (e.g., a # 9, which is semi-circular), of the appropriate size, along the length of the rabbet, to remove much of the waste between the two gauge lines. Reversing directions at the inevitable grain reversals, of course.

This minimizes the amount of material needing to be removed by subsequent vertical and horizontal gouge/chisel cuts (setting-in cuts), and helps insure that any collapsing of wood fibers will take place into the waste. This latter aspect is analogous to the grounding cuts done in low relief carving. These cuts, often done cross-grain when possible, are used to remove much of the waste to the level of the "ground" surrounding the area of the low-relief figure. The subsequent setting-in cuts can then be done with minimum risk of the wood collapsing into the figure to be modeled.

The resulting rabbet will have a curved wall which follows the overall sweep of the moulding, while its floor will be in one plane. I didn't bring this up before, but it would be possible to make the final cuts leveling up the floor of each rabbet with and old woman's tooth, or router. We know that carvers sometimes used small ones to level groundwork.

Hope this helps clarify things a little.

Don McConnell

Eureka Springs, AR


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Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#31

Re: What is a firmer gouge? Can you point to a pho

Don McConnell

>Pam, et al

The term "firmer gouge" is the traditional term for what many (most?) people would call a bench gouge, today. This is simply to distinguish them from other gouges, such as carving gouges, paring gouges, socketed firmer gouges, turning gouges, etc. Sorry, I've spent so much time looking at earlier references that I sometimes forget that the older terminology is no longer in common usage.

Don McConnell

Eureka Springs, AR

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#32

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

Roderick Drumgoole

>Don,

Thanks for the clarification!

Roderick

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#33

Re: What is a firmer gouge? Can you point to a pho

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>How would a firmer gouge differ from a carving gouge?

Pam

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#34

Re: What is a firmer gouge? Can you point to a pho

Don McConnell

>Pam, et al

Rather than attempting a written description, I'm including a photo of a couple of my gouges for visual comparison. The gouge on the left is a carving gouge, while that on the right is a firmer/bench gouge. These larger gouges were chosen because the visual differences, primarily in the shoulder area, are more obvious than in smaller gouges. Not all carving gouges are numbered according to the London Pattern, but any gouge with such numbering is a carving gouge.

In addition to the visual differences shown in the photo, the body of traditional carving gouges generally thin down more toward the cutting edge than firmer gouges. Paring gouges also thin down toward the cutting edge, but do so over more length.

Hope that helps a bit - now I need to end lunch and get back to work.

Don McConnell

Eureka Springs, AR


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Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#35

Re: What is a firmer gouge? Can you point to a pho

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Many thanks, Don. As it turns out I have a huge pile of firmer/bench gouges that I've been holding onto for about seven years due to the superstition that I'll need them one day. They are all Bucks that I bought in a box with many other chisels, turnscrews, etc., average price turned out to be $3. This is so cool. Here I was planning to buy a bunch of H&R's for moldings, but if I can make a molding with tools on hand I'll be happy.

Pam

Re: Question - 18th Century Tools & Processes

#36

Thanks very much to Don and

Wiley Horne--So. Calif.

>to Pam. To Don, for explaining in great depth and with reasoning given, a procedure that I would never have heard about any other way. This was really a signature Don McConnell post, and like the others, they are like gold.

And to Pam, because I didn't have a clue about a firmer gouge either, even after Don's first explanation. The photo did it.

Great thread!!

Wiley

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