Building a jointer - opinion sought

Very nice! I like them both...

John in New Mexico

>but especially the infill. Even the blade is "infilled" ;).

Wow, what a thread, first the great laminating vs chopping debate, now BU vs BD.

John

Ebony dilemma

wilbur

>Hi Moses,

If that piece of ebony is causing you so much consternation, send it to me. I'd be happy to take it off your hands so you can sleep better. *wink*

Re: Apologies for jumping in...

ThomD

>I agree Steve. It's my contention the mortising/hollowing is a mass production issue. Just think also of the efficiencies these guy had only having to stock one wood! I'm not sure what machines are being used, I would love to see a picture, but it sure isn't a 4 axis CNC! I think just a tilting head motising machine would get a lot of the work done, but only for those that are expecting at least some amount of hand work to be involved in final fitting. Inamoto's machine makes me think it much look like a 2 channel trip hammer. I wonder if perhaps Dave has seen one?

Re: Building a jointer - opinion sought

ThomD

>I made a Macassar ebony plane at one point, what I mostly remember about that experience was that the dust affected me like Mace. Most wood dust I am fine with... Macassar isn't brittle it cuts like plastic, but it creates a brittle feel in the blade fit, or at least mine did. No give and a nasty feel under the hammer. I could see it in an infil or even wedged plane. I made a wedged plane out of Andaman Padauk with an Osage wedge, and it was too hard, but a softer spacer corrected it so it wasn't a big deal to sort out.

Generally I am surprised what you all are saying about glue. I suppose if one resawed a rowed piece of wood like the Andaman Padauk, when it was glued back together, it would no longer have those connections across the grain axis, and that would be something lost, same deal with diagonal cutsknots or burls, possibly. On the other hand multi laminated structures are a lot stronger than the original pieces of wood, so if something was goofy with the shear planes just outside the glue lines, it's hard to see how that would be possible. But that's one of those questions above my pay grade.

Re: OK, are your saw handles laminated?

dave brown

>There's no reason to laminate a saw handle -- unless you want one in green & brown to match a camo laminated compound bow.

Building up a wooden plane from laminations makes a lot of sense as long as it is approached properly and executed with attention to detail. I agree with Mike, that C&W are doing it more for historical and aesthetic reasons than for longevity concerns.

In the interest of accuracy *LINK*

Wiley Horne--So. Cal.

>This is just for accuracy. There is no way that I or anyone from Clark & Williams want to get stuck to this tarbaby of an argument.

However, it has been stated at least twice in this thread that C&W mortise their blocks purely for historical accuracy and/or aesthetic reasons. Although these statements were not made in a value-laden way, and were made by folks who are approving of C&W, they are not exactly correct.

It is true that Clark & Williams strive for historical accuracy. However, they also believe and have stated on numerous occasions, that the zenith of wooden plane making--in the context of conditions prevailing in Great Britain and America/Canada--occurred late in the 18th century. And that the design features of those planes had evolved over many generations of woodworkers, and evolved the way they did for a reason.

Linked below is an article located on the Clark & Williams website. It describes in great detail how the design features of the British plane of the late 18th century, including the choice of wood, the coffin shape, the grain orientation, and other factors--resulted in a unique ability of those planes to quickly reach equilibrium with changing atmospheric moisture. Glue barriers are not part of the design of these planes.

Wiley


C&W Article on wooden plane design

Re: OK, are your saw handles laminated?

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>I agree with Mike, that C&W are doing it more for historical and aesthetic reasons than for longevity concerns.

Then we agree to disagree. I know that's not involved at all in my decision to continue to chop mortises for my Japanese blades. This seems to be one of those "reasonable people disagree" issues.

Pam

Found some pics, kinda... *LINK*

John in New Mexico

>I'll have to post a link, since I can't save the actual images.


http://www.mlsmachinery.com/onlineCatalog/details.asp/cat/1350/auct/0/liq/0/id/14496/p/1/rpp/10/pic/3

Re: Apologies for jumping in...

steve knight

>I have wondered if a hollow mortise machine would cut tropicals very well. myself I think it would need a power feed to do it. thats where I think a cnc milling machine would do it and do metal too. but that won't happen to me till I become LN (G)

Re: Apologies for jumping in...

ThomD

>If I can find a suitable piece I can see for you how easily it cuts tropical hard hardwood. It doesn't seem all that plausible when facing a piece of NA hardwood either, but it zips right through. I always feel a little stupid to buy any non-cnc machine these days.

Certainly it would make more sense for anyone in your position who can sell their work. Probably a multi axis water jet could cut almost the whole socket. my only objection to Milling was the shape of the resulting cuts. But possibly a combination of fly cutters and end mills would get all the rounds out.

Re: John...Found some pics, kinda...

ThomD

>John, from your position in New Mexixo, I don't suppose you have any other good websites for second hand machinery (wood or metal), for places I haven't heard of that are only 20 miles from me, do you? :)

Hah!

John in New Mexico

>If that thing had been able to cut a big ol' door mortise, I might not have posted it!

Honey of a machine though, isn't it? --Oops, probably shouldn't say that over here!

John