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foolproof dovetail marking

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Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#26

Re: Hand Tools!

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>You don't see why a forum restricted to the discussion of hand-tools and their use would not focus on efficiency? Seriously? Would you go to the turning forum and try to have a discussion on the most efficient way to build a dresser? It is a specialized forum, clearly.

You could build a dresser with only hand tools, however not necessarily the most efficient way of doing it. I'd like to see you do it with a lathe... Go ask the folks on the turning forum and let me know :-)

I didn't say that a hand tool forum should focus exclusively on efficient hand tool use, but it's part of the equation.

Repeating my *own* quote:

I am not saying hand tools aren't integral to getting it done

Perhaps you just the "not" in there.

I don't like "not"s, they chip my A2 tools :-D

DC

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#27

LOL! Good one.

Paul Kierstead

>

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#28

that is why I am here

bill tindal, E.TN

>I had my epiphany several years ago during a visit to College of the Redwoods. I had been successfully making what I needed exclusively with power tools and had never had a successful experience with a plane (because I didn't know how to sharpen one it turned out). Every student I talked to was fitting with hand tools. I saw that wood could be removed in 0.002" increments with these tools which made fitting quick, and more important, reliable. It was then and there that I began a quest to learn enough about their use to be able to use them where they offered benefit in getting the job done. And I am still learning and sharing what I have learned with others.

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#29

It kills me EVERYTIME Jim...! Every single time!

HC Sakman

>

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#30

Re: professional vs amateur approach, an editorial

ThomD

>My experience with FK's method was that it was a great place for a beginner to start. I think it is actually easier to do the way he describes. The reason being that it challenges one to learn to let the saw fall along the line, not to steer; and because it brings the senses into it. A process can be effectively jigged, but a process that makes people quickly use their innate abilities is often faster to learn.

An example of this was the Army's Quick Kill/Skill techniques back in the Vietnam war era. They were probably worried at the low hit ratio at the time, and they developed a training method using BB guns and small targets in which they used the shooter's innate hand eye coordination to shoot small target out of the air. Like shooting aspirin out of the air at 10 feet. Whatever the target sizes where, they were the kind of thing where the person looking at this kind of shooting would have sworn they couldn't do it; and they weren't a pro; and the pros methods wouldn't work for them; and you would have to be a natural athlete... Hey that was easy!

Also hand skills that are learned can be transferred to other competencies. So up till the point where one is really willing to go CAD CAM CNC and automate, one gets more benefit and sense of achievement out of manual skills.

FAKE wants you to succeed. He more recently changed his tool kit to a more American one just to make us feel at home. I don't believe he demos that DT method believing it's a master turn that only an expert could do. Think of the cruddy project he shows in the tape. If he wanted to blow off amateurs he would have done it in a fancier setting to scare us all to death. Speed is another thing. He did say he only got fast after taking on a project that had dozens of drawers in it.

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#31

Re: FAKE?

ThomD

>I guess that's spellcheck for "FK".

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#32

Re: professional vs amateur approach, an editorial

Tony Zaffuto

>To a point, I would agree with what you are saying. Last night I dug out an old Popular Woodworking article by Klaus on dovetailing. The date (IRC) was October 2005 and the article gives an excellent pictorial account of how he dovetails.

It would work very well, provided you already have certain skillsets, such as cutting to a line and cutting square. In fact, Klaus goes the extra mile to "almost" preach the need to practice prior to even beginning to attempt to cut via his methods.

The first few paragraphs of the article deal with his arrival in the US and, although he was already a trained cabinetmaker, he took a multitude of classes here to "visit" competing methods of forming dovetails. He concluded by returning to the method he was taught which was the one that also felt right to him. He also stated very clearly that anyone reading his article should use the methods that feel right and give the best results.

Personally, I've gone through a number of different methods, and use a rat's nest combo method that works well for me. I'm only a hobbyist, yet I can cut well fitting dovetails very quickly. Primarily influence was by Ian Kirby and Tage Frid combined with Italian bull-headness that I added. Probably the item that had the most effect was picking system and then going through the Chris Swartz 30 day madness. During that time, I didn't just cut a one dovetail, but multiple times made boxes, etc., and progressed into half-blinds. Basically to achieve acceptable results you must invest the time into developing the requisite skill sets.

If anyone desires, tonight when I'm home, I verify the correctness of the magazine date and post it.

Have a good one!

T.Z.

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#33

more problems than sawing

bill tindal, E.TN

>Not to belabor this discussion but to be specific in my objections to the Klause video for beginners......

1. He does pins first. Much harder to learn to cut tails precisely.

2. Eye-ball layout. That will stop almost all beginners at step 1.

3. I am somewhat beyond beginner and I still can't hand hold the pieces to precisely make the transfer markings, be they tails or pins. Hence, the start of this whole affair.

I have no quibble with Frank's sawing or chiseling instructions. But having taught a dovetailing class to intimidated beginners the crutches in the Cossman approach were reassuring to the beginners I have dealt with.

His approach has one compelling advantage in rare situations. It is very fast, which is important when trying to earn a living woodworking. For many this advantage is outweighed by the greater skill and proficiency required to be successful.

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#34

I will give you some competition...

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>As soon as I can take pictures...

I made a few that aren't from Mars, but from the "dark side of the moon"...

I also have a few drawers that are 1/2" shorter because I managed to cut the tails instead of the waste...

Marking the waste is a GOOD idea.

DC

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#35

Re: more problems than sawing

ThomD

>"It would work very well, provided you already have certain skillsets, such as cutting to a line and cutting square. In fact, Klaus goes the extra mile to "almost" preach the need to practice prior to even beginning to attempt to cut via his methods."

I read that article too Tony.

I think that is a large part of the problem, certainly mine. It was years before I practiced everything, I put it off until I had a valuable piece of wood in a project, that would probably be wrecked if my dovetails didn't come off. It's a basic idea in high performance that one should mentally articulate what is practice and what is performance. Many mix the two together with predictably bad results.

Since there can be long gaps between woodworking, at times, for me, I also take a scrap and do some "practice swings" before I go into any dovetailing. Mostly I practice straight parallel lines without any layout.

"He also stated very clearly that anyone reading his article should use the methods that feel right and give the best results."

Maybe that's partly an adaptation to our sensitivity culture. While I enjoyed his personality in his early FWW videos, it was a bit like Arnold's early movies. FK wasn't so reticent about laying it down earlier on... On the other hand I don't claim it's the best method of dovetailing, I think it's a great method to practice them, to learn hand skills for a beginner.

To look at it a little differently, think of riding a bike. Most of us need the training wheels. Regular training wheels at least give you an occasional feeling of balancing on the main wheels. A lot of riding on a trike is probably not going to teach you how to balance a bike. However, after learning how to ride with the training wheels, eventually they come off. I think that is the point where I learned the most, the fastest about riding a bike. The great leap forward moment. The deep end is a great classroom, out of the comfort zone. Happily no falling or sinking involved with dovetails.

Bill:

"1. He does pins first. Much harder to learn to cut tails precisely"

I won't argue that, it seems to be a fact that the craft over centuries has been a pin first craft for casework, but if the opposite appeals to people that's fine. Perhaps the only reason casework is so often laid out pins first is because the pin sides are often shorter, which maters if you are using gravity. In the broader craft there are proven examples of pins first (casework), tails first (a lot of timber work), both separately (musical instruments). If you can handle the basics, you can do all that stuff.

With actual respect, I would point out that you are the one having the trouble with joint offset and in need of a marking jig. Do you ever get the feeling that maybe some of these guys with lots of experience, might be on to something. One part of what they did within their commercial environment was train beginers...

I'm going to come back to this lower down. (see dualities)

"2. Eye-ball layout. That will stop almost all beginners at step 1."

That may be true, but it is the single most powerful part of the technique for beginners. It frees up the saw stroke, gives them practice time. Gets the brain as backseat driver out of the way. Doing the eyeball layout itself is not difficult at all. It's not even all that difficult to make handsome joints that way. The eye has a natural centering function built right in. For super clean work I don't do it, but for average stuff it works great. I have made some ugly proportions that way. I'll share pictures. But as far as getting a structurally sound joint, that most people will praise, it's simple. It doesn't work well for asymmetry, and I lay that kind of stuff out carefully.

"3. I am somewhat beyond beginner and I still can't hand hold the pieces to precisely make the transfer markings, be they tails or pins. Hence, the start of this whole affair."

Somewhere along the line the pieces get too big. But for the smaller drawer and case pieces I haven't had much problem. Even if the piece moves, you just plunk it back. This is where it gets tricky though, are you doing his method or using your marking knife, and cutting tails first etc... It's a system.

Obviously if you are teaching a class and you aren't happy with a method yourself, if your convincing...

OK, I'm going to pick the part I referred to above in a post called "dualities". Sorry to go on, but I do think people are missing some fun.

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#36

Pins first

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>After my first time, I've always cut dovetails by eye, because I know that all will work out when I mark the mating piece from the first piece cut. When I watched FK's video, it was confirmation for the method I'd thought I'd invented, got a good humbling lesson. However, I usually cut tails first, and it still works out fine. I don't know why, maybe because I can cut multiple tail boards as a single task.

Now I do have a good eye for layout, but enhance this by bisecting repeatedly and offsetting a bit. It's really no big deal. And it's something you can practice if you cut the tail boards a bit long, make shallow cuts along the end you plan to mate before committing.

A few months ago I watched Cosmo's video on making a drawer, found his method of compass based layout fusty and slow. On reflection, I still think this, except I see the value if you need to have some sort of precision spacing.

Pam

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#37

Re: more problems than sawing

Dan Donaldson

>Interesting;-) The pins vs tails first is almost a religious discussion. for me, the weird (I guess ) thing is that I have much better luck getting well fitting DT's when I cut pins first. I don't have much problem with the marking of the tails from the pins. I usually do small projects, which helps, but I did a couple of blanket chests with all handcut DT's, and did both of them the same way. I agree that I cannot gang cut, but I care more about how they fit than how fast I can do them, and it works better for me. Obviously, everyone does things their own way and what works best for them. I also can cut to a line better with a straight handled saw than with the Independence style. (I have both, from LN)

I guess what I am saying, is whatever works for you;-) I don't think that there is a "right" way.

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#38

Jim, I'm really impressed....

John in New Mexico

>I don't have the guts to hang mistakes on the wall, let alone post them on the internet! Too cool.

John

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#39

Re: I will give you some competition...

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ont.

>Hey DC!

:-)

It's where I started from, every time I look at it I realize how far I have come, but more so how I never gave up!

;-)

Take care,

Jim

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#40

Hey John

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ont.

>Thanks John,

My purpose to post them when I do is to say, hey with a little effort you can be better...look where I started!!

One of a kind eh!

LOL!!!

Take care,

Jim

I mark the waste now....

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#41

The first workbench I made...

John in New Mexico

>was supposed to be really spiff. The first thing I made in the first shop I rented. Bunch of 2x4's, cdx plywood, and lag bolts. There were a bunch of goofy joints that I messed up, and a couple drawers that never hung right, and never got faces put on since they didn't work well, so they were kind of half sliding trays that stuff would fall out of. Couldn't plane anything on this bench as it only weighed 100# or so. So I got some little metal angles and bolted the legs to the floor. Then it wobbled too much- legs stayed bolted down and the top would move back and forth about 2". I'd made the top easily removable you see, for convenience of moving. When I moved out of that shop, I left the bench there, thinking that was the last I'd see of it. A couple months later it turned up in a friend's shop (same building). There it sat, with lots of junk piled on it, as that was about all it was good for. It disappeared a year later, my friend having given it to an art student for some reason or another. About 10 years later I'd forgotten all about this horrible bench, when I go to visit another friend's shop, and there it is. Suddenly- the flashback to this useless waste of time, the only redeeming quality of which is that its easy to move. My friend couldn't believe that I'd built the thing, since I had him pretty well fooled into thinking I knew which end of the chisel to hit with the hammer. I couldn't believe that no one had yet put an end to the bench's blighted existence- and it's builder's misery. I think I'll see it again somewhere in about another 10 years, even though I've moved 500 miles away from it. It is after all very easy to move.

John

Re: foolproof dovetail marking

#42

Grist for a Neander's horror movie

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>"The Bench That Wouldn't Die!"

I'd buy a ticket, to watch the look of terror on, say, Brad Pitt's* face as the bench wobbles toward him on its miscut joints. Nominations being taken for the female lead - which Hollywood actress looks like she'd be competent with a plane?

*Brad because he apparently loves A&C houses, knows something about the subject, and may even swing a hammer now and again. Another possibility is Harrison Ford, who demonstrated so clearly in "Witness" that he knows which end of the hammer to grab, although he was turning the brace way too fast when he was boring a hole during the barn-raising scenes; if we go with that generation, then my vote for female lead is Frances McDormand.

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