>OK, I have braces, egg beaters and push drills, but last night I noticed the batteries are shot in my old 12V Makita cordless drill/ driver. They don't make replacement batteries for this model anymore, so I'm out of luck there.
So my fellow woodworkers. If you were to go out and get a new one whitch brand/ voltage would you get?
>I know they're not 'kosher', but they work really well. I have two - a 12v 3/8", 'regular' and a 12v 1/2", tears the shoulder tendons if you're not careful. I also bought a Bosch 12v impact driver, which is something to make neander stray from the beaten path, I'll tell you, when there is heavy duty stuff to drive.
Folks have said good things about the current Makitas, including their impact driver/drill paired package. If that's still in the market, I'd look closely there.
I know little to nothing about battery rebuilders, but I bet someone on the main board could advise you in that arena.
Did you get snow up there in the mountains this week? It's on Mt. Diablo pretty thick...
>North Bros. or Millers Falls brace, Stanley 610 eggbeater, and any North Bros. pushdrill.
But those cordless little-electron-munchers are right handy, I confess. I can't help much, since my cordless drills are probably older than yours, but perhaps you could get replacement batteries at the link below.
>I was in a local tool store a few months ago, and noticed that they had replacement batteries for my 12V, my 9.6V and my 7.2V Makitas. The two smaller ones are much older than my 12V. I didn't need any, so I didn't get any, but they had 'em all. I also just flipped over to ebay, did a search on Makita 12, and got a selection of both styles of 12V batteries, so I think you are still in luck. I haven't tried the rebuilder mentioned above, but that may be an even better route.
>While this is the wrong side of the board - up until a year ago, the best bet was Panasonic 12 or 15.6. Now that Li-on battery drills are available, i would go with those. They are much better than Nimh or Nicad power to weight, and since people on this side don't use them as often, the biggest reason to go Li-on is that the rate of discharge while not being used is far better than the other technologies so they won't go dead as fast sitting on a shelf.
>Mines one that looks alot the the 9v version, but they just added a batterey in series so to speak. Kinda a "L" shaped battery that slides into the handle of the driver. It's not like the ones that plug into the bottom of the driver like the new ones. I'll check the 'bay!
>Hey, It is a hand tool, after all. It dosen't have a cord, and the other side is a bit to loud for me. After all we're not all totally in the dark so to speak (even I can abmit that). Thanks for the input Barry!
If the cordless itself is in good condition, it will pay you to get the battery(s) repacked. There must be a company near you that offers this service.
If you are after a replacement altogether, my vote goes to Panasonic. I have two, the older one a 12v that is 10+ years old and only now needing new batteries.
>My old Ryobi quit charging recently. I bought a DeWalt 12v. I really like it. Charges quick and plenty of power. Let me qualify...I use mine in the shop on furniture projects and home maint. I don't use it all day to build decks or anything. The DeWalt seemed like a really good value when I bought it. They sell them at Lowes if you want to fondle one, but I got mine at Amazon. I work with Li batteries daily (we have around 40,000 of them out in the field!) and I wouldn't have them in my cordless tools.
>This rebuilding looks like a great option, including the option to upgrade to NiMH. However, the discussion about the advantages of NiMH focuses on improved run time before recharging. What I'm more interested in is total life of the battery. In general, what irritates me is not how long the drill runs before I have to swap batteries, it is how soon I have to replace the battery. Is there a difference in the total expected life of NiCd v NiMH?
Nothing compared to folks dealing with tornados, but we're closing in on 48" of snow in the last 6 days. Last night we had snow falling at a couple inches per hour accompanied by 40 mph sustained winds with gusts to over 60 mph. We've got drifts in spots over 8 feet tall. Today, the winds are down to a "calmer" 30 mph and they say we've only got another 6" or so of snow before it's over. Even for a born and raised northern Minnesota guy, that's a storm.
Yes, it costs a buttload more than other drills. I've had a Makita, DeWalt, and others. A drill is a drill is a drill... there are a lot of good ones out there.
The difference, for me, is in the details.
-It runs off of a small, 220V brushless AC motor. Wear isn't an issue, for sure. But I've also noticed that this is the torquiest 12 I've ever handled. I've broken screws, I've broken bits... it has gobs of torque for something so small. The motor uses inverters in the handle, and the electronic controls allowed Festool to add some other features. When you're using the torque clutch, the drill shuts itself off when the clutch starts to slip, so you don't tear up the clutch. And as the batteries drain, if the drill gets overloaded, it cuts off instead of burning up the motor.
-The drill is already very short. The chucks are interchangable, but you can run a regular hex-shanked bit in the end of the spindle anyway. And if it's still too long, you can mount either the quick change chuck or the 3 jaw to the 90 degree attachment. Great for drilling forgotten mounting holes in small carcasses.
-The 90 degree attachment and the eccentric chuck make a world of difference. The 90 degree makes the drill that much more versatile, and the eccentric chuck takes the driveline to the outer edge of hte drill, so you can put screws in ta a real 90 degrees, right up next to a surface, without spinning a 3 jaw chuck against a surface.
-The 3 jaw chuck has a spinning collar on the end, so if you want to hold the end of the chuck while you're drilling, you can do that. Pretty cool.
I wouldn't have bought it originally if I didn't work at a store that sold them. The discount definately helps. But I have met contractors who use the drills regularly, love them, and I've been told by some of them that the drill basically pays for itself. It's a world apart from the Home Depot version of a DeWalt that has plastic gears inside it.
The versatility of the chucks is really the key factor in my answer. The quick change and 3 jaw chuck pop on and off, which is great for drill and screw operations where it's a hassle to keep unchucking and rechucking bits. Granted, that's a feature, you can find on other drills, but it definately is a big help... It's saved me from having to use the old 2 drill method... one for drilling, one for screwing.
Yes, it's expensive on an ungodly scale. But it'll probably never wear out. They come with a 3 year warranty, which is longer than most of my other drills have lasted anyway. My other primary drill these days is a huge 18V DeWalt XRP cordless hammerdrill... which weighs a ton, and is much longer. This is a torquey drill that's much smaller and much lighter, so you can get into some very tight places with it, and then drill holes at angles that no other drill can get to. For furniture building, this has really saved my neck quite a few times.
>I own three Makita 9.6V, with three more for parts; and can't easily imagine giving them up. I need some new batteries, too, but fortunately, last I looked, Makita was still building the "stick" batteries.
>Will they work on the same charger? Tornados, snow storms I know what your talking about Dave. We had a 4.something earthquake last night. No damage, just raddled the nerves a bit and scared the cats.
I got the NiCD on my B&D industrial model (about 15 years old now) rebuilt with NiMH about 3 years ago. It's way too early for them to wear out, but I have been pleased with the upgrade in power.
>I have a 14 year old Panasonic 12V with NiCads that are just about dead. I purchased a replacement battery about 5 years ago and that's also starting to die. They don't make the batteries for it anymore, so I've been shopping for a new cordless drill too. I checked out Primecell. Looks like a good place and a good alternative, although the newer drills seem to have much better weight and torque.
FWIW, in my area - Bergen County NJ, in a local tool shop where a lot of contractors shop, Panasonic NiMH are the most popular cordless drills. I looked at the Panasonic LI, but it's really pricey. They also had Festool, which are beautiful, but overkill for my occassional use. I checked out Milwaukee, Makita, DeWalt and Bosch drills - all beautiful tools, but I liked Panasonic the best in part because of how good my current drill is.
I, too, use an older Makita 6211DW (1/2" chuck) and wouldn't part with it for anything... maybe not rational, but that's what I like....
For the $40 or so a rebuilt battery costs, I'd go for that option. I did also buy the Makita kit Glenn mentioned above - and am happy with that one too.
Also have a Dewalt and had a Ryobi (until the charger melted) which are the ones I let "helpers" use....
There are a lot of good ones out there... even if they are starting to be styled the basketball shoes are....