fitting drawers

Typo (distracted here, sorry)

Andrew F in Australia

>I wrote:

"No problems, details of drawer muntins are also in the Jeff Gorman page I linked to - it's typically lap dovetailed into the underside of the drawer front (or maybe have a tongue that's glued in to the groove in the front of the drawer, but not recommended in a heavy load drawer)and typically screwed up into the drawer back, or dovetailed in as the drawer back is (usually) thin."

Should have read:

"No problems, details of drawer muntins are also in the Jeff Gorman page I linked to - it's typically lap dovetailed into the underside of the drawer front (or maybe have a tongue that's glued in to the groove in the front of the drawer, but not recommended in a heavy load drawer)and typically screwed up into the drawer back, or dovetailed and screwed into the back in as the drawer back is (usually) thin and the muntin tends to bow a bit as well as pull downwards."

note also that the muntin is not a running rail.

Best regards,

Andrew

that makes me feel brighter

bill tindal, E.TN

>

thanks to all-great success

bill tindal, E.TN

>I found a piece of plywood that fit perfect inside the drawer and clamped it to bench. I didn't see any need to remove the drawer bottom, and didn't. Dang, that worked slick. Reduced fitting time admirably, and without the risk to the drawer of my previous vice attempts to restrain the drawer while planing. I'll post a picture of result when the next 5 drawers are finished. The 3 arched ones may be tedious. A face molding will prevent easily scribing the profile.

Thanks, Andrew, got it.

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>

Storage in drawer

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>You say "...flush slips, which take no storage space from the drawer." Sgian Dubh's drawings show a thicker drawer bottom with flush slips - seems like all you're doing is reducing the depth of the whole drawer. Were you thinking of a design different from his?

Re: fitting drawers

Sgian Dubh

>Pam, you said, "I also think that in the US most people don't like the slips' side obstructions, all the space they take from internal storage. I know I don't.

Here's something interesting to consider.

Take a drawer with external dimensions of 10" wide X 6" deep X 4" high, doodle A.

Now put a 3/4" thick front on it with 1/2" thick sides and back, plus a 1/4" thick bottom set in a groove 1/4" up from the bottom edge of the front and sides (taking up 1/2" of internal height), doodle B, the thick sided style some prefer.

Lastly, doodle C, a drawer with the 'flush slips' being discussed. You have a 3/4" thick front, 1/4" thick sides and back-- plenty thick enough for the task in hand, and a 1/2" thick base set up from the bottom edge of the sides and front by 1/4" (meaning the the base and space under it takes up 3/4" of internal height.

Run some numbers through your calculator. You might be surprised at what you find.

I get the following:

Sum A is 10 X 6 X 4

Sum B is 9 X 4.75 X 3.5

Sum C is 9.5 X 5 X 3.25

Correct me if I've made one of my calculatory anomolies, I mean, a fu-- --, er, uhm, balls up-- I'm working in Imperial and fractions here which I'm rubbish at.

What results do you come up with?

If you swapped the flush style slip for a quadrant slip and a 1/4" thick bottom instead, what happens then?

Slainte.

Re: fitting drawers

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Pam, you said, "I also think that in the US most people don't like the slips' side obstructions, all the space they take from internal storage. I know I don't.

Certainly you lose more space to a shorter drawer than to a side obstruction, unless the drawer is narrower than 2 times the side height; but that was two things I listed above, the main one being the "side obstructions." They are obnoxious. And you don't notice the space you lose to the bottom, at least not everytime you use the drawer.

Pam