Conover threadbox kit

Re: Conover threadbox kit

David

>there used to be a Conover lathe - perhaps related to that. Ernie Conover has a web site - conoverworkshops.com - may get some info there.

Re: Conover threadbox kit

ThomD

>Surely the taps are very similar to the metal version, the only issue is the precise size of hole required which would probably be some slight fraction over the diameter of the gullets in the tap. Any of the dies I have worked with have either been router jigs which are usually one unit for a variety of sizes, or rounder plane configurationor and one just started them on their spiralling way up the appropriate sized dowel, which ought to be 1" for the 1" one etc... Since most people don't make their own dowels the dowel is usually the size index, and the holes are usually a standard bit under them taking the thread into consideration.

Re: Conover threadbox kit

Dan Moening in Sacramento

>Woodcraft sells a wood thread box kit. I can't imagine that it's much different as these are rather traditional devices.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=792

Here's a direct link to the PDF howto on WCs site:

http://www2.woodcraft.com/pdf/77A32.pdf

I thought that Beall used to make these as well, but a glimpse at their site only shows the (powered) router kit.

~Dan.

Re: Conover threadbox kit

ThomD

>People obviously use these tools for at least two kinds of work. Structural stuff like clamps, joining sections together, but also ornamental uses as beal has promoted, and between the two people do strucutral stuff perfectly. The point being people can be disappointed with these tools when the threads cut, while pretty functional are not clean. Answers are better species of wood, and better sellection of wood for hardness plasticity. Dowels can also be prepared by waxing or using penetrating products to harden their surfaces, and lubricate.

Re: Conover threadbox kit

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Dean I got a 7/8" threadbox and tap.I used it to make two screws for a dovetailing vise I built.It's very simple to use. Same basic principle as the metal version.You just have to be aware you're cutting wood so you have to be conscious of grain and wood type.Some woods cut easier than others,some hold threads better.I heard that wood not totally dry is better.

The size of the hole for the tap is critical as is the size of rod for the box.Also I heard to use blo as a lubricant.

Making screws is fun.I'm on the lookout for other sizes.---Jack

1982 Kit

Warren in Lancaster, PA

>I bought a Conover screwbox in 1982. They were advertised in FWW. After about five years somebody started making them overseas for about half price and Conover eventually stopped making them. They predate the Conover lathe.

Both tap and screwbox were well made. Using the tap is easy, but the screwbox can be an adventure. Even within the same species, some pices will cut nicely in the box and others will not so you have to experiment. For making the nut, the hole should be in side grain and comfortably smaller than the first section of the tap. For the screw, the blank should be slightly smaller than the hole in the wooden guide screwed to the front side of the screwbox- tight doesn't seem to work well. Some people put linseed oil on the blank to help it cut cleaner. I usually put the blank verical in the vise and turn the screwbox around.

If you use the screws for clamps, don't overtighten because you probably have enough strength to break them.