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Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

A55 Smoothing Plane

Part for Stanley #80

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Part for Stanley #80

#1

Part for Stanley #80

Joe Burke

>I'm sure there's a message in the archives that tells of someone that deals in old parts for Stanley tools, but given the number of messages I got in my first search, this will surely be more productive.

I need a thumb screw for a Stanley #80 cabinet scraper. The thread is a 10-28, which seems to be pretty rare. I could possibly find a machine screw to match, but I doubt I'll find a thumbscrew.

My choices are to drill and retap for a 10-24 thumbscrew, which is readily available, or search for an old one. I figured it's worth a try.

It's a user grade tool, and I've been using it for years rigged just the way I bought it. However, I've grown weary of the "rig" and I'm ready to make the process of removing and resetting the balde as easy as it was intended.

So who amongst you deals in old parts for Stanley tools, and might have one lying about to sell me?

Re: Part for Stanley #80

#2

I like

jim reed @ tallahassee

>the idea of retapping the threads. Get a good thumbscrew that you like and make it work. There is nothing museum quality about a #80 that you need to worry about messing up. Finding the part does not fix the problem, it only moves the problem because if you snarf a part from another one, then it will be out of service. As I recall, the original #80 thumbscrew is pretty cheesy. Your new one will probably be an improvement. Good luck with your project.

Re: Part for Stanley #80

#3

Re: Part for Stanley #80

Stephen Kirk in Quakertown, PA

>I found that I could use a hex screw which while it takes a hex key, usually also has the ribbed sides for hand tightening. Most hardware stores carry lots of sizes of them. I did that for my 78 and it holds the blade well.

Re: Part for Stanley #80

#4

Re: Part for Stanley #80

Ernie Miller

>make one find the screw with the thread you need than use some JB Weld or braze half a washet to the screw. you can even file it up a little so it looks really cool.

Re: Part for Stanley #80

#5

My experience has been that it's hard to retap *LINK*

Bill Houghton, 19 deg F @ 6:30 am, Sebastopol, CA

>from fine to coarse thread. The fine threads have a larger minor diameter (the diameter of the base of the threads) than coarse, because the fine threads need less "distance" to reach bottom of the thread shape. Having said that, I note that the same tap drill can be used for 10-24 and 10-32, the common modern pitches in #10 machine screws; but you wind up with only 56% thread on the10-24, kind of marginal, especially in thin cast iron.

If you can locate a 10-32 thumbscrew, you might retap in that direction rather than coarser.

Or you might contact Stanley to see if they list the part and how much it would cost (link below).


Stanley's parts page

Re: Part for Stanley #80

#6

Re: My experience has been that it's hard to retap

Joe Burke

>Thanks Bill

I could always jump up to 1/4-20 I suppose.

The thread size is quite odd. I checked it against a thread guage at the hardware store and 10-28 matches. If I'm not mistaken, when I looked into this before, the thumb screw on a new #80 was a different thread size. I'd dismissed anew part because of that.

I can try tapping at 10-32 first and see what happens.

Re: Part for Stanley #80

#7

Jim DeLaney, Austintown, Ohio

Re: retap to �

Jim DeLaney, Austintown, Ohio

>Joe,

I'd re-tap to �-20 (thumbscrews are easy to find) or, better, � -28 (harder to find, but the same thread pitch as original, and capable of 'finer' adjustment).

The #7 drill needed for the �" tap will completely remove the #10 threads, giving you a clean hole for tapping. Cast iron taps easily.

Jim D.

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