Using Antique Tools--Adam, Joel, all

Re: I dunno Kevin

Thom D


>Good point. All the tools I get to look over (they send the good ones to the states) look like they had several monkeys for masters since the last person who knew how to use them (if anyone did) had them. All my anvils have big juicy axe strikes on them. If it has a sharp edge it was used to pull nails or scrape something sticky. For myself I'm not going to grunge the blade up real good just to learn the master's secret. His secret is that he died and various hacks have lovingly reducing his tools to scrap ever since.

Re: Surprised

Thom D


>You could sniff pine more often. That's pretty funny,

At the historic sites, seems as though folks are using some newly made tools these days like CW planes and such. Is that because they work better; they are conserving the old ones; or they figured it wasn't historically accurate to represent the folks in the new world cabinet shop as working with 200 year old tools?

Re: Wetherell Chatham plane

Dave Chatham


>Wiley,

Is that two people or one person in that plane name?

Can you tell me more, guess why!

Dave Chatham

Re: Dean's World

John Hoffman


>Adam I recall Charlesworth using a cambered iron while jointing and edge. Please don't tell me the jointer won't work with a cambered iron! I just cambered mine on Sunday. I do have a grinder...

JH

DC's world!

Adam Cherubini


>You'd have to ask DC about that. When we talk about purism being bad, this is the result. We have to be so careful that we understand the advice we act upon and how the giver of that advice works. That's one reason why I wear the funny clothes- so that you know exactly from whence I cometh!

I have two long planes: one I use for surface work- flattening something broad, with a curved iron that helps square edges while I straighten them, and another tool with a straight iron purely for match planing joints. I find a curved iron is problematic when match planing. If you choose to follow my advice you will need at least two blades, and you're better off with two planes. I don't use any other tools (like a power jointer) for this sort of work and there's nothing special about my planes (no fences etc). But you may or may not get the precision that DC requires.

So there are bounds. What we need to know are what are DC's boundaries. Cosman too. Does he really take rough lumber and size it by hand (as I do), or does he size it with machines and perfect it by hand? His advice will only be applicable for one or the other.

Ditto, its important to know what is and is not acceptable in terms of finish quality and time spent. For my part, I'll accept almost anything in finish quality and I want to spend as little time on any given operation as possible. The funny hat is for sweat.

Is that clearer? I'm not saying your choice is right or wrong. I just think you deserve to know the ramifications of that choice and whatever goes along with it.

Adam

You may already have your answer, but

Wiley Horne


>Adam has in the past recommended a straight-bladed jointer for match planing, and a camber-bladed try plane for single-board edge jointing. Jeff Gorman has long been a proponent of the cambered blade for edge jointing, and has a writeup on his website. David Charlesworth also recommends the cambered blade approach for single boards, and has details on the amount of camber, and how to get it, in one of his books. Don McConnell has a very good article or an extended forum post somewhere on the subject.

Anyway, the cambered blade is for single boards, and the straight blade for match planing.

Wiley .... who uses straightish blade for single boards, following Larry Williams' and Joel's method.

Recently watched David Charleworth's videos

Derek


>He uses machines to do the rough work and uses planes for fine work and fitting. He uses a cambered iron for almost everything, including jointing. The main exception, if my memory is not gone, is shooting, where he uses a straight blade.

His point in jointing with a cambered iron is that you align the blade to take off material where the edge is tapered. If it is tapered to the right, you align the center of the blade on the left side of the board to cut doen that side so it is level. You move it back and forth to get both sides level. This is a bit of an over-simplification, but the gist of it.