Small Tenon Saw

Thanks Dave!

mikew

>

Absolutely gorgeous!

HC Sakman

>I like the blade going all the way below the handle.

Now "the" question: How does it cut? Any comparo?

Chico...

OK Everybody, wipe your keyboards....

HC Sakman

>

Re: Absolutely gorgeous!

mikew

>Hi Chico--it cuts well, of course .

I can only compare it to saws I currently own--none of which are made by people currently making saws.

Any saw, by nearly maker, can be made to cut well. At least if it is apples to apples. Part of my past business has been simply sharpening over the years. So a given saw of the same guage steel sharpened by the same person to the same ppi will cut near identically on the same chunk of wood.

What one is then left with is style, asthetic choices and perhaps that it is a new saw vs. a vintage saw. All good choices. While I "own" some of my own saws that I use everyday, I will not get rid of my vintage ones unless I replaced them with better examples--that part is the collector/user in me.

That they are at the least semi-hand made and currently not being made by another company makes us desireable, I think. If we know a person needs a smaller or larger handle, no problem and no extra charge. Same with the desired ppi. Too, we will make any [western] saw one has a fancy to have--including from old photographs and texts like Moxon for comparable prices if we already make a saw of theat size. That and the aspect of kits, all made in a quality manner, is what I think makes us unique. And all for what we think is a reasonable price.

Thank you, Mike

Re: Absolutely gorgeous!

HC Sakman

>No doubt Mike. I agree 100%. So, do you also sharpen saws? I mean do you offer this as a service? (Probably busy enough with sharpening new saws.) Perhaps for a few worthy saws you may consider it. ???

Chico...

Again, the picture is (I am sure) not doing nowhere near 100% justice to the real thing. It looks extraordinary. Now if I gather enough cash, Wayne's planes and your saws.... Oh...you guys are bad...very bad! ;-)

Re: Absolutely gorgeous!

mikew

>Hey Chico--yep, we also sharpen saws. Mostly by hand. If retoothing is an absolute necessity, I use the retoother and base the tips at the present baseline. Usually not necessary unless I am restoring a crown, removing a belly or completely changing the ppi.

Most of the sharpening I do in the evenings. Fairly peaceful out in the shop, listening to my local jazz station, in the evenings.

Pretty sick, huh? ...

The updated web site will have information as to cost and address, etc.

Take care, Mike

Re: Absolutely gorgeous!

David W. Dougherty

>Sick? Not at all. Rather, it sounds like a slice of heaven on earth.

Beautiful saws by the way.

Re: Small Tenon Saw

Skip in Falls Church

>What a beautiful saw!!!!! I love the handles on the Peace back saws as well. Keep up the beautiful work.

Skip

Mike..

HC Sakman

>...that sounds rather very healthy to me than "sick". I think rhythm of the music will help you do your job better.

Waiting for the web-site.

Thanks,

Chico...

Cutting the Slot for the Blade

Tom Colligan, Peoria

>Wonderful work, Mike, and I'll be contacting you shortly.

But if you don't mind, how do you cut the slot for the blade? Manually, with a rip hand saw? Thanks in advance, Tom.

Re: Cutting the Slot for the Blade *LINK*

mikew

>"Wonderful work, Mike, and I'll be contacting you shortly.

But if you don't mind, how do you cut the slot for the blade? Manually, with a rip hand saw? Thanks in advance, Tom."

Why thank you very much, Tom!

Of course I wouldn't mind. For the .035" blades in the larger saws I use a reset thin-kerf bandsaw blade. Mindless work to reset it to a narrower kerf, but with music on in the shop it is something to do drinking the morning coffee. That blade is only used for this purpose and replaced for general cutting.

The .025" and .020" blades in the mid- and thin-bladed saws, I use saws I made using the same thickness blades, filed a modified rip without set. It's not a deep cut and if it is marked with a cutting gauge it is relatively easy to follow.

The Peace saw shown in this thread, and the other inset saw handles have at least two angles to cut. With those the blade shape is drawn on the handle's side--after the profile is cut and filed onto the end of the steel--with it set in position as it will be when inserted, the layout lines transfered across the edge of the blank and then one cuts to the lines at the appropriate angles. Making sure one doesn't cut beyond the lines.

On the Peace-styled saw, if one cuts too deep it becomes readily apparent. If it is an exotic wood, well, I have expensive firewood.

Hope this answers your questions. One of these days I'll document the process. I do have a similar process documented in the making of a handle for a Disston D-8 found at the link below.

Take care, Mike


Making a D-8 handle

Re: Cutting the Slot for the Blade

paul womack

>Do you have any narrative or captions for those (great! photos?

BugBear

Captions...

Bob Hackett(Mainely,Bob)

>We dun need no steenking captions!

I found the pics to be very well shot and self explanatory.I figure if a rock like me can get it then it must be pretty plain for everyone else too.

Having the old handle cut in half(to aid accurately tracing the pattern) and a properly sized scan of the complete handle to fill in for missing pieces were especially nice touches that had me smacking my forehead more than once.

Thanks Mike,now I`m off to find the Advil.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Cutting the Slot for the Blade

mikew

>Hi BB,

It wouldn't be difficult for me to write something. I've done a dozen or more D-8 handles now and in some ways is all still painfully imprinted in my mind .

I'll see what I can do over the next week. I have a few orders to take care of, which is why I've been fairly absent from the forums of late.

I have one picture of cutting the slot--there are more I chose not to include. As the D-8 handle [and other Disstons from the 1920s on] is a closed top, it is tricky and a bit dangerous. So the caption will be for an open top...

Take care, Mike