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Millers Falls No 7

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Millers Falls No 7

#1

Millers Falls No 7

Guy

>Hello folks, I recently picked a Millers Falls No 7 block plane at a flea market for $5. I've checked the web for info on it and it appears complete and original but I have a question. The blade is sharpened bevel up and it doesn't fit the other way around because it is a skewed blade and also the blade has about 3/4 inch of fine teeth in the bottom that the adjuster meshes with. So I am wondering did the previous owner sharpen bevel up to try it out or is that the way they came from the factory? Sorry for all the questions, I'm pretty new at hand planes and yes I know the slope is steep and slippery. Thanks in advance, Guy

Re: Millers Falls No 7

#2

Re: Millers Falls No 7

Jerry Nicholson

>I don't know anything about Miller-Falls block planes but the block planes I am familiar with are sharpened bevel up. They usually have a low bedding angle.

Jerry

Re: Millers Falls No 7

#3

Re: Millers Falls No 7

ernie miller

>Jerry is right it should have the bevel the way it does.

Re: Millers Falls No 7

#4

Re: Millers Falls No 7

Tom MacGregor

>The standard general purpose angle for the cutting edge of a plane blade to contact the wood is 45 degrees. A regular bench plane, with the bevel down, is bedded on the frog and cuts at 45 degrees. The most common type block plane, with the blade bevel up, bedded at 20 degrees and sharpened at 25 degrees still has the same general purpose cutting angle as the bench plane - 45 degrees. For one thing, if a small block plane with no tote had its blade oriented the same way as a bench plane it would be less compact, and be more difficult to hold and balance. Plane iron geometry is a whole subject all by itself but that's the first thing to know (IMHO).

Re: Millers Falls No 7

#5

Re: Millers Falls No 7

Guy

>Thats what I wanted to know. I'll sharpen it up today as is. Thanks a bunch!!

Re: Millers Falls No 7

#6

Re: MF No 7 or MF 07 ??? *LINKS*

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>The Millers Falls numbering system can be a bit confusing to the neophyte, especially in this case. Do you have a No. 7 bench plane (about 8" long) similar to a Stanley #2, or do you have a number 07 skew rabbet block plane, similar to a Stanley #140?

MF Bench planes are described here: http://www.public.coe.edu/~rroeder/main/bench/benchtable.htm

MF Block planes are described here: http://www.public.coe.edu/~rroeder/main/blok/blok01.htm

The Stanley #140 is described here: http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan12.htm#num140

I suspect from your description that you have the skew rabbet block plane, which is a very useful plane. Note that there as two screws that allow you to remove the right side plate, thus exposing the right side of the blade, allowing it it to be used to make rabbets, trim tenons, and even raise panels.

Also, you will note that it does not have a lateral blade adjuster. Precisely maintaining the skew angle at which the bevel-up blade is ground is very important to the proper performance of the plane in rabbet mode. A couple of months ago, Derek Cohen did a review of the new Veritas MKII honing guide, and also provided some additional information on using it to easily keep the #140 blade angle correct.

Note also that you should keep the side plate in place when you are not using it in rabbet mode, as the front of the sole flexes, and is a bit fragile without the plate in place.

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