Dovetail saw Lie Nielsen or Adria?

Love my Lie Nielsen, but...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond,CA

>I've never seen an Adria. From past posts I think either one will be excellent choice.

Then again you can alwasy get an old one from a good tool vendor...

Re: Dovetail saw Lie Nielsen or Adria?

Jim in Burlington On

>Adria has a slightly larger handle and cuts faster IMO. I have a signed Tom Lie nielsen saw that has less set maybe that adds to why it cuts so much slower than Adria.

flip a coin

Jack Guzman from Maine

>You can't go wrong with either saw.Both excellent quality and pretty tools to boot.I was happy with my antique british dovetail saw and an Adria tenon saw.Then I happened to pick up LN's curly maple handled DT saw at a show and had to have it.It's just too nice a tool to pass up.---Jack

Independence Tool!

Jim in VA

>You need an IT (Independence Tool) saw. I have IT #48, handmade by Pete Taran and Patrick Leach along with a matching carcass saw of the same serial number.

I have seen the LN's, and while the handle is not as nice as a real IT, they are beautiful saws that work well. I have not seen an Adria in person, but I doubt you could go wrong with either.

Re: Dovetail saw Lie Nielsen or Adria?

alan womack

>Not used, nor seen an Adria besides web photos. I took the hand tool class with Rob Cosman so I used his Cocobolla handled saw, which he removes some set from, and ended up buying a regular LN dovetail saw. I had Rob take a bit of the kerf out of it before taking it home. I wanted a thiner kerf and could not detect any speed change as a result.

Re: Independence Tool!

ThomD

>I thought they sold out to LN? Are they still making Independence saws. I have two of their dovetail saws.

Re: set

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>The amount of set a saw has will not really affect how fast it cuts. Unless it is actually binding in the cut, that would slow it down some by preventing efficient strokes. The speed at which a hand saw cuts is based on several different factors, 1) the size of the teeth 2) the rake of the teeth, or angle at which they are filed. A saw can be filed a large number of different ways, but the main factor is that there is a tradeoff between the smoothness of the cut and how fast the saw cuts. A saw that cuts smoothly will cut slower, a saw that cuts faster will cut rougher. This of course applys to sharp saws; a dull saw can cut rough and slow no matter what the tooth configuration is. I made a hand saw to cut dovetails that is a 12 ppi rip, and it cuts fast, but it also cuts a little rougher than it probably should. I am planning on making another saw that will cut slower but smoother.

Re: Independence Tool!

Jim in VA

>Yup, that's right. IT was sold to LN. Still high quality tools--just that the handles are not as shaped as before.

Right on

Adam Cherubini

>I agree 100%.

I looked at both saws in Joel's shop. The Adria had a steeper (or 0) rake. The LN had 5-10 degrees.

Merry Christmas

Adam

Re: Right on

mikew

>Yes, and the way I usually do it if left to my own devices is more teeth = less rake. Somewhere in there is also the customer's desired usage. Intended for softer woods? Less rake even on less teeth. A hardwood like Jatoba? A bit more rake. Else I do it per customer request/order.

So for my personal joinery saws at 18 ppi and above I have very minimal set and 0 rake. More rake and set as I drop ppi. My 14 ppi rip tenon saw has 8 degree rake and more set to each side.

Of course, this means one either compromises the speed vs ease or simply owns a few extra saws. I just crosscut and ripped two Lyptus boards the other day using a 5 ppi crosscut and a 4 1/2 ppi rip. This rip has about 10 degrees rake. Made it slower but fairly easy going.

The rip I use on something like Pine is a 3 1/2 ppi with 0 rake. At least if the finish isn't important. But it is fast cutting.

Take care, Mike

Re: Dovetail saw Lie Nielsen or Adria?

ThomD

>I can cut dovetails pretty successfuly with quite a range of saws. Hacksaws, "toolbox" saws, bow saws, and a variety of purpose built saws. The thing I look for the most is whether they start right away without any skidding. There are a lot of saws that will make the cut, but are hard to start. Since I copy off the pins to do the tails, the tops have to be perfect. The Independence is as good as it gets for that. I haven't tried an Adria, so no help there.

Learn to file saws....

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>...and you can buy a half dozen Disston 68's or the Atkins/Bisho equivalent for the price of a shiny new one that won't work any better.

Look in the articles section for a tutorial on the subject. Not difficult, just tedious.

Re: Dovetail saw Lie Nielsen or Adria?

Bob Fawcett

>Lots of good advice here. Thanks all.

I have an inexpensive japanese pull type "dovetail" saw. I think I just need more practice with technique.

I may get a western style saw and see if I like the push type better.

Thanks again everyone.

I have the LN's but I hear that Vlad has a great 1

Doug Littlejohn

>

Re: Learn to file saws....

ThomD

>I've yet to find a decent old dovetail saw. I think this kind of thing accumulates in various areas with the market. A lot of our stuff gets sent to the states since the prices are higher.

Re: I have the LN's but I hear that Vlad has a gre

L Robins

>I was told that there is no longer a Spehar saw. Vlad is moving on in life and doesn't have the time to make saws any more. I was sorry to hear that, but I can certainly understand and wish him all the best.