Charlesworth BB incompatible with honing guides

Re: Charlesworth BB incompatible with honing guide

Alice Frampton, UK

>Hopefully David will forgive me if I've mis-remembered this, but isn't the ruler trick only used on the last, finest grit anyway?

Cheers, Alf

Re: Charlesworth BB incompatible with honing guide

paul womack

>If you're talking about the "ruler trick", it's always (as I understand it) done as the last stage (i.e. removing any burr) of sharpening, and thus there should be no issue w.r.t removing the blade from any jig you care to use, since work on the "main" bevel complete.

BugBear

Re: Charlesworth BB incompatible with honing guide

Paul Kierstead

>Hmm....I do the back before doing the bevel, so no problem. If I were to do a back bevel of that sort (not the larger change-cutting angle sort), it would be at the very end in the 'remove wire edge' stage and free handed. I use stones, dunno if this is somehow not so easy with paper.

Re: Charlesworth BB incompatible with honing guide

Dean in Burlington

>It doesn't matter if you do the ruler trick (Charlesworth BB) or the standard method of polishing and flattening your blade first.....You NEVER touch the back of the blade with anthing other than your final polishing stone/paper. If you spend 4 hrs flattening the back of your blade with 1000, 4000 then 8000 stone then sharpen the primary and secondary bevels.....why would you then rub the back of your blade with a 1000 stone? You've already flattened it. 1000 stone is only for flattening or putting on a bevel....other subsequent stone are for removing scratches cause by lesser stones.

As stated with the ruler trick/Charlsesworth BB....you would only do this on the final stone at the end of the whole process. The only problem the Veritas MK II jig has with Charlesworth methods is the blade curvature trick, because of the large wide wheel....but this is a whole other issue which can be solved.

Pardon my ignorance but...

Jerry Nicholson

>why put a back bevel on a blade that is used bevel up, other than as a substite for flattening the back?

Jerry

Re: Pardon my ignorance but...

John Clifford

>It's exactly a substitute for flattening the whole back. All that really needs to be flattened to a mirror polish is the very end, or so the theory goes. I've used it and it works fine, saves a bunch of time. But once you do it there is no going back or at least not with out a lot of work to remove the back bevel you made. Instead of flattening the whole back to get rid of the back bevel I think I'd grind the edge back past the back bevel, that is if you didn't like it after doing it. My .02, John.

I knew I could count on you guys!

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>You made me learn something new to me... And, thinking it over, it makes a lot of sense.

Thanks again!

DC

Re: I knew I could count on you guys!

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

>Glad to hear you understand Denis. It truly is a brilliant tip

Cheers

Dan Clermont

Re: I knew I could count on you guys!

Norman (Metcalfe, Ont.)

>Denis,

Was reading this thread.

I don't use the ruler trick, I'd rather flatten the back correctly once and get it over with. Once it's done, it's just a matter of touch ups at higher grits. You don't need to go very far back when flattening or lapping the back of the blade either.

The issue I have with back bevels is that once you have applied them, you must stick with them on that iron, otherwise it's a huge undertaking to flatten the back at that point.

I can pick any plane iron in my lot at any time to sharpen and not have to concern myself if there is a back bevel or not if I just flatten the backs flat.

I like to keep it simple.

Norman

Re: I knew I could count on you guys!

GolfSteve in Calgary

>The back bevel is so small that two or three regular sharpenings, or one hollow grind, will get rid of it. There's no need to reflatten the back to get rid of the back bevel.

Re: Pardon my ignorance but...

Imdavetoo

>A back bevel will increase the strength of the edge because it will make the edge "fatter". Imagine a 25 degree bevel on a flat lapped chisel. Now imagine if you place a 5 degree bevel on the back. You've just made the edge "fatter", and it will last longer. The trick is to be sure to leave some relief between the workpiece and the back bevel!