FWW's Review of Plane Kits

What kind of drill bit is that in picture#7?

HC Sakman

>

Re: What kind of drill bit is that in picture#7?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>#7 is a 45� spiral flute tap. #8 shows a thread insert tool, with installs the metal threads into the threaded hole cut by the tap. Tools like these are usually used for repairing stripped out threads in metal, or for installing harder threads in softer metal (for example, steel spark plug threads in aluminum cylinder heads), but it looks like they work fine in purpleheart too.

oldtools group infill project

john jesseph

>I seem to remember a long time ago on oldtools a bunch of folks bought SJB infill castings. I never saw any finished planes, although I'm sure I just missed those posts. I got the impression that most of those projects were measured in geologic time...

Re: There is also too heavy...

Doug Evans

>Hi Frank:

Way too heavy. I used to use a 26 oz. a lot. I am now working with a 22 oz. Also, I might add is that there is quite a range in quality of Ball Pein Hammers - instead of a lot of the newer ones being a ball they have a bit of a conical point (not what you want) on them. Mine are old yard sale ones with good handles.

A hammer that is too heavy tires you out faster and when your forearm is tired and you're almost done... you put a dent in the sole with a very heavy hammer: 'nuf said. The other thing is a heavy hammer tends to push the sole plate (when you're hammering fro the sides) from one side to the other (which can result in a one-or-two-degree cant).

Oh yeah... I said I wouldnt talk anymore.

D

Re: oldtools group infill project

Bruce, a MN Galoot

>I've got one in my drawer at work that I peck away at occasionally (on night shift). Glacial time is about right. Brian Buckner did a couple, I think Darrell Larue finished one, Michael Lindgren (he also did a couple from scratch) and some others, but I think it's safe to say that the majority (maybe vast majority) are waiting in some state of work in progress.

Bruce

Alternatives

Bob Hackett

>There is a metalworking product(whose name escapes me)that combines both a HSS drill and a spiral tap in one tool.They were meant to be used in low speed production threading machines but we had great success using them in air drills in the shipyard.I would think they would be just the ticket for WWing.When the drill end is buried in the work and the tap engaged they look just like the pic.

Regarding thread inserts,that looks like a Heli-coil in the next pic(#8).Heli-coils require a special tap and insert tool.A better and more permanent fix can be had with a product named Keen-sert.Heli-coils are notorious for binding to things like spark plugs and unthreading from thier chosen position.Keen-serts are a solid steel insert(as opposed to a coil)that is staked in place and becomes a permanent fix.They also use common SAE taps to cut for installation.Once I found out about Keen-serts while working in the maintenance crew of an aluminum factory I never even considered going to a Heli-coil again.Just ask your local hot rodder about his experiences with Heli-coils if you can stand prolonged whining and have a large block of time to waste.

A more elegant fix for threaded wood parts would be a brass threaded insert like those sold by LV for thier spokeshave kits.Hey,if it`s gonna show(and it will)it may as well be pretty.

Don`t forget to polish before installing.;^)

Mainely,Bob

PS-Thanks to LOML for the typing skills.

Please post photos Chico!

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>

Re: Temptetions are all over the place...

Jorge Castaneda

>Chico,

Nice to hear from you too, nice holidays to you!

Jorge

Re: Alternatives *PICS*

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>A question re. the combination tool: Does it drill a hole that is quite a bit deeper than the depth of the threaded part?

I also prefer to use threaded inserts. They work well in wood, with only a brace and bit and a quickly thrown together insertion tool. Here are a couple of explanatory pics of a very small one I use to make things like very small bladed marking knives.

Re: Alternatives *PICS*

Steve knight

>I used to use a brace and bit to drive them. one of the best tools for the job it's real easy to get them in accuratly. but it got a bit slow for me and now I use an impact driver. but it is harder to getthem in accuratly.

Re: FWW's Review of Plane Kits

Mike in Sac

>It would seem to me that there may be other explanations for the lines along those dovetails in the photo than just sloppy work. If the plane was built under conditions of low humidity (perhaps why the infill was 1/32" too narrow), when the weather gets wetter, the infill could swell, forcing the plane sides apart slightly. In that case the photo may be showing a shadow line rather than a gap.

Another possible explanation could be the builder's decision to live with an infill that was too narrow. He said that he forced the sides of the plane together at the top, which could have opened a slight gap. He could have corrected the problem by just filing out 1/32 inch from the bottoms of the dovetails along one side of the sole before he attached the sides. He'd still have the problems of wood movement.

Regardless of the cause, your concern is with the cosmetics of the plane. I would think the bigger problem is that the plane sides are out of square with the sole. This would affect the performance (or at least the potential performance, since he says he doesn't intend to use the plane to shoot).

Correcting those slight gaps is pretty easy. Just pound them a little more to move the metal. If I were him, I'd get out my belt sander then, and bring those side walls into square.

A more interesting question is why the production staff at FWW chose to leave the gap or shadow visible in the photo. It is a pretty easy matter to remove from the photo, whether digital or film. Were they trying to indicate that cosmetic perfection isn't necessary for a functioning plane? Or were they left in because of more sloppy work?

Re: FWW's Review of Plane Kits

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>How about a totally crazy conspiracy theory:

They really want to leave a really bad taste in everyone's mouth regarding the results of using hand tools, or much worse, building their own hand tools. The subliminal message is "Just buy and use the power tools our big buck advertisers make, and stay dumb and happy."

Re: thanks

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>You made my day, Sir William; I actually laughed out loud. I really should get out to the east coast sometime in the next couple years.

Re: St James Kit

ThomD

>I'd like to see that.

One reason I haven't got my rough ones done is because I keep thinking I will buy a mill, and then it will be "easy". I'm not having any luck finding a new or used mill that suits my purpose in Ontario.

Still if there is a good hand tool/drill press way I would try it.

One way of doing the milled block planes that is fast and very good, is to cast the bed with epoxy. You never see that part, and epoxy is pretty instant and very stable, Making the forward grip can be done in various patterns straight from the lathe.

Hand Tool Aficianados

Patrick Gibbons, Houston, TX

>I do get a perception from magazine articles whether the author likes or merely tolerates hand tools. This one seemed to be loud and clear.

Re: What kind of drill bit is that in picture#7?

Mike Swindell

>The picture #7 is of an STI tap, special threaded insert. I used helicoils because they were inexpensive and easy to install, plus the were the right depth, 1/4". Keenserts are perfect for aluminum, but you will be paying a hefty premium. I work for Boeing, formerly Hughes Aircraft, and all our aluminum fixtures used keenserts, never helicoils. My machinist friend says a 3/8" keensert is like $5, but when bolts are being installed and removed repeatedly in thick plate, keenserts are the only solution.

I designed my plane after HNT Gordon kits and the IPE pivot blocks work perfectly. Even though IPE is tough wood I still had no problem resawing 4x6 blanks with a 1/2" Lenox bimetal blade in my Griz G0555. I roughed out the handles with a 1" forstner bit and shaped the rest with rasps, vixen files and sandpaper.

I will, if it gets to be done..of course.

HC Sakman

>

Thank you guys, both Mike & William

HC Sakman

>