raising panels by hand (part 2)

Re: raising panels by hand (part 2)

Ian in Sydney

>When I've done it, I've use a #78 to establish first the field, then the tongue. I worked the cross grain field followed by the long grain field, then repeated the sequence for the tongue.

I then planed the taper between the field and tongue by eye, again cutting the cross grain slope before tackling the long grain one. Almost any heavy plane will do for removing the bulk of the waste, but I find a rebate plane of some sort best for the final passes.

If the panel was to be raised but not fielded, I'd cut the tongue as above then use a battern to control the width of the taper.

Ian

remove the "7" to email

Re: raising panels by hand (part 2) *LINK*

Richard A.Gillespie, Jr.

>When I recently did mine, I marked the area I wanted raised in pencil both along the edge and field. My LV LA Jack was used to remove the bulk of material to those lines. I kept the bevel angle by eye and found that running with the grain gave the best results even for the end grain.

I then used a marking knife (utility knife) to cut the field limits. I chiseled back to the line on the end grain and clamped a fence to the field and used a skewed woodie I had to cut the long grain parallel to the field. I think a shoulder plane would have worked just as well.

I cleaned up the end grain angle with a LA block plane and the long grain with a #4 Stanley. This work was done on Ash and the results were acceptable for a first effort. I hope this helps. I've provided a link to some pictures if you'd like to see


Go here

Re: raising panels by hand (part 2) *LINK*

Ted Shuck, Centennial, CO

>I did several recently for a couple of blanket chests I made for LOML. I used the method outlined on shavings.net. I used a #140, skewed block plane, for the cross-grain finishing. I also used a scraper to smooth the cross-grain bevels. I have provided a link to the shavings.net tutorial.

Best Regards,

Ted


How to raise panels with hand planes

Re: raising panels by hand (part 2)

Jim in Burlington On

>In a issue I think this year of FWW there's a nice picture in Garrett Hack's piece about making a corner cabinet on making raised panels by hand. He has a jig that requires no clamps.

thanks

frank_shic (walnut ck, ca)

>appreciate all the comments. it's just comforting to know that it CAN be do. one final question: do you adjust the blade withe the lateral adjuster to better accomodate the angle of the field?

Re: thanks

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>ABSOLUTELY NOT! The lateral adjuster is there to allow you to adjust the blade for an even depth of cut, not an uneven depth of cut. It helps make up for any imprecision in your the shaping of the bevel, and imprecision in the manufacture of the plane. If you need to take more off one isde than the other, you have more control if you simply tilt the plane at the angle you want the final surface. You'll know you are there when you start getting full width shavings.

Adjusting the blade for an uneven cut has some serious disadvantages. The deeper the cut, the more force on the plane. So a cut that is deeper on the outside, torques the plane in your hand, and away from the field, making it difficult to control. When planing long grain, the interaction between the blade and the front of the mouth opening controls tear out. If you are cutting more deeply on one side, you have to open the mouth more on that side to keep from clogging the mouth with a too thick shaving. This results in the other side taking a very thin shaving with a relatively wide mouth opening. That can result in tearout because the mouth is not keeping the wood fibers from splitting in front of the blade. A tight mouth opening is important for panel raising if you are using the same plane for the ends and the sides. For cutting end grain efficiently, you need a low cutting angle. For cutting with the grain with a low cutting angle, a small mouth opening is much more important than if you are using a plane with a high cutting angle.

Re: thanks

frank_shic (walnut ck, ca)

>appreciate the insight, william. thanks for that sound WA-POOSH (said with a sweeping motion of one hand)!!

Re: WA-POOSH?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Hmmm.... I was expecting some controversy on my response. So far, though, no counterarguments. Maybe I need to brush up on my curmudgeonly skills, or maybe everyone else is dozing this evening.