Removing rust from old hand plane *LINK*

Re: Removing rust from old hand plane

Richard A.Gillespie, Jr.

>I use green Scotch Brite pads and WD 40 to remove the rust. This can be a slow process and others use electrolysis or acid baths to do it. I don't use those because it leaves the metal a dull gray. Once I have the majority of the rust removed from the sole, I use sand paper glued to a 40" long piece of plate glass starting with 60 grit and working my way up to the highest grit sanding belt I can find and flatten the sole. You can tell by the scratch patterns when you need to change grits to reach your goal. Don't worry excessively about areas just behind the mouth. That's the one area that doesn't need to be dead flat. Once I have all the rust removed I use paste wax to protect it.

I then flatten the face of the frog. I remove the lever cap screw to make this easier. I then check to make sure that the frog sits without any wobble on the seat. Grinding that is a PIA.

Now using scary sharp or water stones or whatever other method that makes you happy, sharpen the blade and flatten its back. The blade is sharp when it grabs not skids across a thumb nail. The chip breaker should then be checked to make sure it properly contacts the back of the blade with no gaps that would collect wood chips. You may have to also grind the lever cap so it makes good contact with the chip breaker. Assemble the blade and chip breaker so that the breaker sits about a 1/16" behind the edge of the blade. Assemble the plane so that you have about .020" of an opening to the front of the mouth. Give the plane a test and adjust to your satisfaction.

Re: Removing rust from old hand plane

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Phileas,

That looks like a #5 jack plane. I use electrolosis to remove rust from old plane bodies. I remove all parts from the body,wash it with soap and warm water with a plastic scrub brush to remove dirt and grease.Then put it in the electrolosis for as long as it takes to get rid of most of the rust.The ugly gray or black comes right off with a scrubbing pad. I like to stick the body in a 250 degree oven for an hour or so,depending on how long it sat in the electrolosis.Then get to cleaning/lapping,etc.There is information on electrolosis in WC ARTICLES on your left.Have fun.---Jack

Re: Removing rust from old hand plane

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(

>Phileas,

I use electroylis (a.k.a. zapping) extensively for all sorts of tools with great success. with it I have brought tools back that otherwise wouldn't of been saveable. I have loosed nuts, bolts, set-screws, etc, etc, that would of never been possible otherwise. THE BEST description I have ever seen on setting and using a zapping tank was in WOOD Magazine, Sept '93, issue #63, page 74. the only change that I have made to it is to use Washing SODA instead of Red Devil Lye.

The only tool that I WOULD NOT zap afain is saws. It does leave the blade a dull gray, but it does not do that to other tools. I have never zapped a saw using the Washing soda however, so that may be inaccurate info now. It does not leave the surface of other tools a dull gray. After zapping for 30 minutes and wire brushing I coat almost everything with Johnsons Paste wax. I see no need to put tools into an oven to dry them, tho I am not impling that this is a wrongful practice, only that I don't do it, and see no need for it.

If you cannot get your hands on the issue of WOOD that I've mentioned, e-mail me your snail mail address offline, and I will mail you a copy. You'll love it, I guarentee.

Are you a woodworker, or just looking to preserve some family heirlooms? Once you get than #5 plane cleaned up to the point of making nice shavings you'll be hooked.

Welcome to Ellis Island and to the SLIPPERY SLOPE!

Todd O.

'Twas Brylopad...

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I use SOS or Brillo type pads and warm water. Works a treat, though I do diligently dry it off right away and wax all the exposed metal to discourage rust from re-starting.

For heavier rust, such as you can see toward the top of the blade (also known as "the iron," which is amusing since it's steel not iron, but the term dates from when plane bodies were wood), I use a wire brush wheel on a bench grinder. This is considered sacrilege by many, but for a user tool, I find it works fine, if a light touch is used.

You'll probably find a maker name at the top of the iron when you clean it up. This technically tells you only the name of who made the iron, but mostly this will be the same as the maker of the body.

You've got a usefully-sized tool. I go back and forth using this and the next size up, and am always refreshed when I step back to this size at how light it is.

Re: Removing rust from old hand plane

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Todd,

I don't remember all the details but there was alot of discussion about this issue awhile back.It seems that the electrolosis process does something to the structure of the metal in regard to hydrogen.I believe it causes instability.I remember reading that if an anvil were subjected to electrolosis it would be possible for the anvil to explode.I believe this because it was well documented.I also heard that the oven heating put the hydrogen situation back to normal.So--I heat things like plane bodies. I don't do this with everything I zap but with plane bodies,you don't want them any more brittle than they already are.Plus the heating is a good way to remove all moisture from the screw holes.This was a topic of a few threads here at hand tools over a year ago. If you search you can probably read more about it.---Jack

Re: Removing rust from old hand plane

Frank D. in Montreal

>You can also try salt in venegar before zapping. It leaves the metal shiny and doesn't remove good metal, doesn't change the structure either. Just dissolve as much salt as possible in some vinegar and soak overnight.

Re: Removing rust from old hand plane

Phileas

>Thanks everyone for the suggestions, information, and fast response.

Todd, to answer your question, I'm a beginning woodworker. My first project was a boat. I built the Clancy you may have seen on New Yankee Workshop. That was so much fun, I bought a table saw. Now I'm buying tools to set up a shop. Next project will either be a toolbox, a humidor, or a shoe storage unit (give you three guesses whose idea that was ).

Cheers,

Phileas

Hmmm

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I guess that's the same principle my mother used when she scoured copper-bottom pans with salt and lemon juice.

Re: Removing rust from old hand plane

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(

>Frank,

What kind of vinegar? I'm game to try it.

Yeah Jack, I've read the therioes about the metal becoming brittle from hydrogen reduction, but I really feel it's not all that signicant, and that over a short period of time whatever imbalance was created is soon stabilized.

Phileas,

No, I haven't seen Norm build the Clancy, wish I had tho. I'd say that you're pretty well sucked into WW now, so give it up, you'll never escape.

I think you'd be a smart man to build that shoe storage rack. There is good news and bad news associated with this project tho. The bad news is that once the shoes are organized they will take up less space, thus the household shoe collector/hoarder will be able to buy more shoes. :~( The good news is two-fold, 1st, you make something for da-Misses, than justifing more tools becomes much easier, and 2nd, now this is the best part, if the issue of "how many tools do you need" comes up, you simply stroll over to the nice organized shoe rack(s) and say something to the effect of "As many tools as you need shoes". I would, if given the opportunity try to delay that answer until you've had you're supper tho. ;~)

Todd O.

Re: Removing rust from old hand plane

Frank D. in Montreal

>Good old white vinegar, at least that's what I do it with, it's pretty cheap in big bottles. I guess wine vinegar would work too. Maybe throw a few eggs in with the plane and have them for lunch the next day when you take it out, with a little salad... ;)

Razor blade and #0000 steel wool

WoodburnBob

>After using all the more aggressive and involved methods (and, e.g., watching an otherwise good japan finish lift off from "zapping"), I've now settled on the single-sided razor blade used at a low-angle to plane off the plates of rust, followed with using the blade perpendicular to the surface as one might use a card scraper. Next, the steel wool. For me it's very effective. But then I'm not after the British antique store look of radiance, glare and dazzle.

It is impressive to me how much the looks of a plane like yours can be renewed just by soaking it in oil for a few days and then going over it with rags. Granted, I'm usually a less-is-more tool rejuvenator with regard to cosmetics.

Re: Removing rust from old hand plane

Ernie Miller

>That plane dosn't look that bad I would just use some 220 sand paper or finer and p[lace it on the bed of a jointer or other known flat surface and lightly lap the sole and sides to remove the rust. the blade can be done with a sharpening stone or the same way the lever cap and chip breaker can be done with scotch brite or steel wool. don't get to carried away. A tooth brush and murphy's oil soap will do wonders. as far as any thing goes just planing an old 2X4 will remove the rust from the sole once the blade is sharpened. No real need for all the techno Zapping chimical bathing, massaging and day spa techniques that every one is spouting. Some times less is best. Nice looking plane I'm sure you will enjoy using it.