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Which Shapton Pros to get?

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Which Shapton Pros to get?

#1

Which Shapton Pros to get?

Schwim

>I'm currently using wet/dry sandpaper on a granite block to sharpen my handtools. This has worked well for me, but is very messy and just feels "cheap" with rolled up scraps of partially used paper strewn around the sharpening area. I'm planning to change over to Shapton Pro ceramic stones.

What would be the ideal setup as far as specific stone choices go, and do I need to buy the lapping plate with the loose grits?

I was thinking 1000, 2000, 5000 and 8000. What about the 1500, I seem to remember someone writing good things about this stone?

I'm mostly sharpening A2 steel.

Thanks,

Schwim

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#2

Re: Rhetorical Questions?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>What's the matter with being cheap? There are, however, other cheap sharpening systems that are less messy and more effective than SS.

Why do you think Water Stones would be any less messy than SS™ or than oil stones, or even than diamond stones or diamond paste on cheap, flat substrates?

Of course, I don't understand people spending good money on Cadillacs, either.

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#3

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

Ted Shuck, Centennial, CO

>I bought the package of three stones (1000, 5000, 8000) from Joel at toolsforworkingwood.com about 2 1/2 years ago. I also bought the flattening plate from him.

I've been very happy with these stones. The 1000 gets more use than the other two combined. I have a Norton 220, but find that the 1000 is faster for flattening backs than the Norton. Some advocate only getting the 1000 and 8000, but that feels like too big a jump to me. If I need just a touch up on a blade, I will use only the 5000 and 8000. Usually I need to get a wire edge with the 1000 first though.

I have ordered a kanaban plate and some 45 micron diamond paste to fill in at the low end. Some on this board have extolled the merits of this system for rapid flattening, so I am going to give it a try.

Many have posted about alternatives to the Shapton flattening plate ranging from ceramic stones to cinder blocks to diamond plates. You need some system to keep the stones flat. I have found the Shapton plate easy to use and effective, even if it is expensive. I don't know about the alternatives. I would be tempted to try the cinder block before buying the Shapton plate. What do you have to lose?

Regards,

Ted

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#4

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

Frank D. in Montreal

>Hi Schwim,

I have a few Shaptons but haven't tried them all so can't really say which ones you should get. I have good success with A2 using 220, 1000, 4000 and 8000 stones.

I just wanted to say that I find using grit makes lapping a lot easier. Whatever you do don't use a diamond stone to lap a Shapton or it'll wear out quite quickly. I use a 1/2" piece of glass (4" by 12") with 150 wet-dry sandpaper glued to the top; I load the sandpaper with the powder grit (Shaptons are really hard, and just glide over sadpaper alone), it works really well and the sadpaper lasts a long time.

Frank

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#5

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get? *LINK*

MikeW

>Hi Schwim,

I grind new bevels using a Tormek, and if done by hand to fix a nick in the edge, I use a 600 diamond plate so I don't have any Shaptons below 2000.

I go from 2000 Shapton to a 4000 King (I've had it for a long time and it didn't need replacing) then to an 8000 Shapton.

All deference aside to the first poster, the 2000 on up just need a light misting with a spray bottle. I don't know about the lower grit Shapton stones.

I once showed someone how little mess there *can* be using the 2000 and up, see the link.

Now, I tried to make no mess and didn't. In normal use there may be a bit more. But, I keep the 2000 on my bench to touch up chisels and plane blades while in use, using a light spray on the surface (or a sprinkle of coffee on the surface if in a rush ). I do not get water on my bench.

They don't need to be so wet they drip all over is the point.

I also use the cast flattening plate. The bottles of grits last a long time as one only needs to put a little on. Steve Knight uses rock polishing compound (which is cheap) and if I ever use up these little bottles I will probably go that way too. I've had them for over two years and they are about 2/3 full yet.

MikeW


No muss, no fuss

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#6

Re: Rhetorical Questions?

Schwim

>Just a personal preference, kinda like everything else in life, to each his own. I'm sort of a perfectionist when it comes to woodworking and don't like the mess.

Would argue your statement to read that "inexpensive" is good, whereas "cheap" in my opinion is not something to strive for.

I do, however think that the ceramic stones would be much a cleaner and more streamlined system where everything stays in its own place, with no soaking bath, no curled dirty paper, etc.

Also have to admit that I'm of the "Cadillac" mindset that you describe and don't understand; it's just what makes me happy. Isn't that what the hobby's all about.

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#7

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

Paul in NJ

>I have Shapton 320 and 1000 stones. The 1000 is great but I hate the 320. I purchased the 320 to flatten backs but it wears so quickly that I dub the edges of my blades. The 1000 is a nice stone and cuts rapidly, staying flat for a reasonable amount of time. I finish with an old King 5000. The waterstones are very messy, I find I need to use a fair amount of water to keep cutting fast. I flatten my stones with the cheap ($25) plastic base coarse diamond DMT stone. I have been using the DMT for flattening the stones for a couple of years and have not noticed it degrading. In my experience the diamond stones don't hold up that well when you use them on steel so I dedicated this DMT to the water stones. Flattening the water stones is very messy also. When I flatten I dunk both stones in a bucket of water every 10 seconds or so. If I had a sink in my shop I would do it under a running faucet.

Paul Dzioba

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#8

Re: Rhetorical Questions?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Merriam-Webster provides several definitions of cheap.

1 a : purchasable below the going price or the real value b : charging or obtainable at a low price c : depreciated in value (as by currency inflation)

2 : gained with little effort

3 a : of inferior quality or worth : TAWDRY, SLEAZY b : contemptible because of lack of any fine, lofty, or redeeming qualities c : STINGY

4 a : yielding small satisfaction b : paying or able to pay less than going prices

The other sharpening methods I suggested do not fit definiton 3a or 3b, but that wasn't what I meant, and I didn't think that was what you meant either.

I still think a Cadillac provides unacceptable performance for the price. It is definitely 3a and 3b when compared to a Lexus or a Mercedes or several other automobiles. I wouldn't own one because I would not feel comfortable with its unreliability and would not accept the deleterious impacts on my wallet and the environment that its inefficiencies demand. Most of the people I respect have less respect for people who choose Cadillacs, unless they happen to have a trained, professional cadillac mechanic with them at all times. OTOH, what I am driving now cost me $300, gets close to 40 MPG if I'm careful, and even the AC, the power windows and power door locks still work, and it will haul me, family, friends, furniture, logs, lumber, tools, dogs, and even my cheap boats.

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#9

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>When lapping with the diamond, do you mean the diamond wears out quickly, or the Shapton wears out quickly?

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#10

Re: Rhetorical Questions?

MikeW

>"Most of the people I respect have less respect for people who choose Cadillacs, unless they happen to have a trained, professional cadillac mechanic with them at all times."

Geez.

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#11

Ellis Walentine

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

Ellis Walentine

>I have the 2000, 5000 and 8000 and that covers me for 95% of my finish sharpening. If something is in need of heavier grinding, I revert to a selection of assorted waterstones ranging from 200 to 1500, or even a 300 or 600 grit diamond stone.

I have the flattening plate with grits, but I tend to flatten my stones by rubbing them against each other with plenty of water as a lubricant.

Ellis Walentine, Host

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#12

What are you driving now?

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#13

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

Frank D. in Montreal

>Hi William,

I meant the diamond plate wears out. But I see that Paul D. gets better mileage than I did. I was flattening a Shapton 220, using a coarse diamond plate. Maybe with the higher grits this is less of a problem. I'm very happy with my glass, paper and grit now.

Frank

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#14

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

Dean J in MN

>FWIW -

I recently switched from King waterstones to Shapton Pro 1000, 5000, and 8000. I flatten them with a DMT, which itself is not flat. Arggg. Not the end of the world, but you have to learn the system to get things flat.

Things I noticed, the Shaptons like to be wet. At least the 8000 needs to have a good amount of water or my blade backs stick like crazy. Not an issue with the bevel honing. They do stay flat longer than my waterstones, but are not the holy grail. You do need to have a way to flatten them. They are hard enough that it is eaiser to keep them flat them let them dish and try to work them back to flat.

I find the 1000,5000,8000 work well for my needs. If I need to flatten a back that is in bad shape I do the bulk of the work on a cheap 220 waterstone, and only when I am very close do I switch up to the 1000 Shapton.

Good Luck!

Dean

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#15

Re: Rhetorical Questions?

Schwim

>Funny, by 4 of the definitions (1a, 1b, 2 and 4b) my purchase of the Shaptons at this point in time would be considered as "cheap" (something you argue as a positive characteristic) --- they're on sale at Woodcraft!

You obviously misinterpreted my usage of cheap (stated in quotations) by crossing the varied definitions, it should have been clear by the context in which it was used.

Personally, I too think that Cadillac is crap and was using it to describe a mindset that you were characterizing as unfamiliar to you. You didn't make it clear that you had a negative view of the car; I plead guilty to assuming your ignorance.

Why didn't you say "Mercedes" instead of Cadillac? Do you think there is a better quality stone/system at a comparative pricepoint? Are all people who buy Shaptons getting ripped off? Your logic is lacking.

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#16

JR....I hope you have your eyes and ears covered

Dave (Arlington, VA)

>

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#17

Thanks

Schwim

>Thanks all for the helpful input (except William).

I just purchased the Shaptons online from Woodcraft at 15% off, NT (cheap!). Ordered 220, 1000, 5000, 8000, lapping plate and 2 powders.

FYI, the sale is on till the end of the month for anyone interested.

Schwim

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#18

Re: JR....I hope you have your eyes and ears cover

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>I was just pondering how to respond to this slightly dated view of the best darn murican automobile there is on the streets today. But considering the source of the rant ( a well known uncombed wild eyed normally soft spoken individual) I will just let it pass ;-)

To (not) coin a phrase "These aren't your fathers Cadillacs"

JR, a 21 year Cadillac technician.

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#19

Re: Rhetorical Questions?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Sorry, Schwimm. I guess none of that came out the way I intended. I was trying to make a few, mostly unrelated points, and jumped around and it certainly came out confusing.

In the following, a new paragraph means a new point. It's all together here just so I don't have to punch the Post Response key more than once.

Re, Cadillacs. I would not fault anyone for restoring something like a hot pink '59 Caddy convertable and cruising around in it on weekends and other special events. That's a hobby, and if that's what makes him happy, and that's what he enjoys spending his discretionary time and money on, I'll encourage him, and even feel a bit of envy and a lot of admiration at what he has accomplished. The more glitz and chrome, the better. That's an important piece of American history, and some of that needs to be preserved.

We don't need to use cars like that to commute to work, or to run our businesses, because they are inefficient, and there are much better choices.

Regarding Cadillac reliability, statistics show that there are much more reliable cars out there. Even Joe, who I know is a Cadillac mechanic, I am sure will agree with that. There are also lots of cars with much lower reliability, so I shouldn't have picked on GM. Automobile reliability and price/performance doesn't have anything to do with the coice of sharpening systems, however. Hey, I even know Joe drives a Caddy. I suspect he got a good deal on it, and knows how to keep it running, just like my Corolla wagon.

Enough said about automobiles. I'm changing the subject.

I should not have tried to guess which sense of "cheap" you meant. I apologize. You are correct, torn and curled sandpaper does look cheap, in the worst sense of the word. It takes up a lot of room, and is difficult to hide, and is a PITA to work with. I think it's main advantage is low initial cost. It is quick and easy to set up, and when you want to try something better, it is easy to throw it away.

Now, I'm changing the subject again.

I am not disparaging the performance of Shaptons or any other waterstones. The number of woodworkers who recommend them makes me sure that excellent edges can be obtained from them. Once I got used to them, I probably would not mind using them at all.

Nor am I trying to say that waterstones are at a disadvantage because they are messy. All sharpening systems are messy, in different ways. I am also not trying to say that waterstones are unacceptable because you spend more time and effort flattening them. I don't know that. All sharpening systems require maintenance. It's up to each one of us to decide for ourselves what kinds of mess and what kind of maintenance schedule we are most comfortable with.

Do Shapton stones cut faster? Lots of people say they do. I don't know. What I do know is that, with the exception of the time it takes to flatten plane and chisel backs, there are other methods where the actual cutting time is completely insignificant in comparison to the other things that have to be done to sharpen, things like disassembling and reassembling the plane, keeping the medium flat, keeping the medium sharp and clean, walking over to the sharpening bench and back to the woodworking, dealing with contamination, cleaning up, discussing it on WC, grinding a hollow bevel, etc.

One final point that I guess I was least clear about: I probably should have just said this up front and then shut up. I think Shapton stones are very expensive, compared to other sharpening methods I have used and that I find to give excellent results and to work quickly, once I have gained an understanding of their idiosyncracies and have developed the necessary skills to use them. I realize that scrounging in flea markets and in the dumpsters behind manufacturing plants looking for scrap to make tools out of is not how a lot of people like to spend their discretionary time, but I don't have a lot of money to run out and try another expensive sharpening method, especially if I already have methods that are starting to work well for me.

OTOH, there are always new tools to sharpen, so if I'm going to keep learning new and better woodworking methods, I'm going to have to continue to expand my sharpening skills and methods, too. When I come up with another cheap trick, I'll be sure to let everyone on this forum know what I have discovered. I'll also try to let you know what it does well, and what it does poorly.

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#20

Diamonds anyone?!? Opportunity knocking

bill tindall

>Every time I read one of these discussions I wonder why someone has not seized on what appears to be an opportunity $$$$ to supply cast iron plates and diamond powder. The cast iron plates probably never need maintenance, only two grit sizes are needed to go from 60 grit grinder to ultimate sharp. It could be cheap and it is very fast. I think people don't realize how much sharpening one can get (lightning fast) from 5 cents of diamond powder.

There is a US supplier that extrudes cast iron bars. They could be sliced and Blanchard ground to yield cheap sharpening plates. We made some in small, uneconomical quantities, for less than $15 each. Given what people pay for what appears to be an inferior approach (Sharpton stone, Water Stone) it seems an opportunity is awaiting someone. Mr Lee, others???

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#21

Re: Diamonds anyone?!? Opportunity knocking

MikeW

>"Every time I read one of these discussions I wonder why someone has not seized on what appears to be an opportunity $$$$ to supply cast iron plates and diamond powder...

...

...Given what people pay for what appears to be an inferior approach (Sharpton stone, Water Stone) it seems an opportunity is awaiting someone. Mr Lee, others???"

And what pray tell is a less inferior approach? Have you used Shaptons? Doesn't sound like it from your response. If not, how can you make such a judgement?

But there you go. Sounds like you can make your fortune. Go for it.

Every time I read one of these types of responses to someone's honest inquiry...I'll say it again...

Geez!

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#22

data

bill tindall

>Well Mike, here is the data upon which I made the judgement. It is not my intention to be critical of what ever sharpening approach you or others choose. But, given the disadvantages of the alternatives the thrust of my post was a plea for someone to sell inexpensive diamond sharpening plates. Someone is selling about everything else imaginable; why not plates? Using diamond to flatten a stone so it can be used for sharpening seems like a missed opportunity.

And yes, I have never used Sharpton stones. But I am quite familiar with the abrasive material as it is the same approach as Norton and others use for their ceramic(seeded sol-gel) wheels. In a nut shell the abrasive particle is aluminium oxide and it is made such that small pieces continually fracture from the surface of the abrasive grains which maintains a sharp cutting edge and promotes long life of the particle before it gets worn out and needs to be ejected from the matrix. (Oil stone particles never get ejected from their very hard matrix so they dull quickly and cut sloooow!)So the matrix can be harder(more wear resistant) than in the case of water stones which are simply abrasive particles in a matrix that rapidly erodes to expose new sharp particles. These ceramic particles are very expensive to make, so the product is expensive, but it lasts longer (in case of stone, stays flat longer). This attribute would seem to be a significant advantage over water stones.

Data:

Diamonds work as well as, and in cases(very abrasion resistant tool steels) better than, aluminium oxide based abrasives. - Elliot sharpening studies

Diamond sharpening is very fast. I have no quantitative comparison with Sharpton stones but I remove 80 grit grinder scratches in seconds with a 15 micron diamond plate. I can not imagine that anything is significantly faster.

Diamond is convenient- Plates need to be charged with about 5 cents of diamond every few times they are used. This involves squirting out a small"worm" of paste and smearing it about the plate. Occasionally a few drops of lubricant are added. There is no flatening, ever. I was told that diamond polishers use cast iron wheels for years without them wearing significatly. When done with a plate, slip it into a plastic bag where it remains ready for the next time.

Size- I don't know how big Sharpton stones are , but once I got used to a 12" long plate I find an 8" stone annoyingly short. And if one uses a jig, you aren't using much of an 8" stone.

Cost- Diamond paste or powder is astonishing cheap. Once in a sharpening marathon we flatened and sharpened 30 chisels and plane irons and figured we used less than $1 of diamond abrasive. The diamond cost is almost insignificant over the life of a 5 gram tube. I estimate that the cost of a ground cast iron plate could be $10 or less in quantity. Even if a dealer charged $50 for a plate the cost of the plate plus a tube of diamond (about $15) would be less than even a good water stone. And one needs only two plates- 15 micron and 1 micron. (Maybe a third if flatening, but I find the coarse grits work better in a $3 strip of acrylic.)

In summary I think I have made a good case that diamonds perform at least as well as any alternative. Because there is less maintenance they are more convenient. And finally, I think they could be a less costly approach, IF, someone actually sold plates. Mike, I would welcome a critique of these arguments from someone experienced with other approaches. There must be a flaw somewhere because so far no one has seized the opportunity to sell plates.

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#23

Re: data

MikeW

>And one of my main thrusts was, fine, go out and do it.

One arguement was concerning aluminum oxide. That wasn't your criticism when you wrote the previous message. It was conerning water and ceramic stones.

One arguement was cost. Costs for either are negligable, unless one is careless with either medium. BTW, what's the cost for .5 micron? What's the cost for say, 4 different micron grits? A plate may cost ~$10, but what will the producer sell it for? But then, the grits don't have to go on a cast plate either. There are more cost effective alternatives. How readily availoable to most consumers are these things--the pastes and a plate on which to use them? What ever the cost, I imagine it would be less expensive than Shaptons, probably not so with water stones. But less hassle both in purchase and use? Hey, whatever floats the boat.

But, and this is the last time I will respond on the forum about this, my main objection was your calling other methods inferior. That is a qualitative statement that, well, you are not qualified to make.

If you desire to take this off forum, feel free to email me.

MikeW

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#24

Re: Diamonds anyone?!? Opportunity knocking

Steve knight

>a flat plate would work but having slots in it helps with the slurry issue. having feet to make it steady helps a lot too.

but the plane will wear unless yo uare careful on how you use it. since the ends of the stone are usualy higher they will wear the plate faster so the plate tends to end up a mirror immage of the stone unelss your careful how you work it.

a cheaper nice course 120 grit or so diamond stone with slots is what we need.

Plus I doubt diamonds will be much faster on the stones since you don't really wear out the grit in that small amount of time.

Re: Which Shapton Pros to get?

#25

Kanaban *LINK*

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Would kanaban do the job for you?


Kanaban

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.