plane gloat, and yet again, looking for advice.

Re: plane gloat, and yet again, looking for advice

wayne anderson

>Nice plane!! I usually just set the iron by placing the plane on a flat wood surface, loosen the iron and let the edge make contact, then tighten the cap and see (feel) if it is close. If the iron needs adjusting, loosen the cap a bit and just use a wooden mallet or block of scrap wood to tap the heal (to set it lighter) or tap the iron on top or sides to adjust laterally or for deeper cut. I usually just use the tip of my finger to (carefully) test the adjustment. After a while you will become pretty good at judging the amount of set this way. Each plane is a bit different, and after some time, you will become accustomed to how it adjusts. Have fun using this plane...it is a sweet one! Wayne

Re: plane gloat, and yet again, looking for advice

Clay Craig

>It never occurred to me till you asked, but rapping the back end of these to lighten the set does seem a little awkward, with the tote's shape and placement. My only English infill is unhandled, so I haven't had occasion to figure it out before ... But, in my other hammer-adjusting planes, it is surprising the degree of delicacy that you can achieve by tapping the front or rear of the plane, sometimes never tapping directly on the iron at all. Lateral adjustment can be accomplished by tapping one side or the other of the front or rear, instead of the center.

Clay

Adjusting Infill Planes

Steve Elliott

>To advance the blade, tap the top end. A metal hammer, even steel, won't damage the blade. I prefer metal for this because it gives a sharper blow than wood, which makes very fine adjustments easier.

To retract the blade, I wouldn't tap the heel of any plane with a handle. (This is one reason I like unhandled planes.) Tapping the top of the front infill (aka the bun) will retract the blade, but there's a danger of damaging the wood even if you're using a wooden mallet. You can avoid damage by just loosening the lever cap and pulling the blade back a little by hand, then tapping it forward into position.

If you do tap the front infill, a rawhide mallet might be better than a wooden one. New rawhide is pretty hard, but if you smooth the face and put a little bit of a crown on it so that the edge will never strike the infill there’s little chance of causing damage.

That’s a great looking plane, I’m sure you’ll enjoy using it.

Re: plane gloat, and yet again, looking for advice *LINK*

Wendell @ Murphy, TX

>I can't help with actual experience since don't own an infill yet. However the fellows at Shepherd have a write up on their website on how they adjust infill planes.

Wendell


Shepherd Tips and Techniques

Re: Adjusting Infill Planes

James Watriss

>Nice idea with the rawhide mallet. I've been thinking of using one of those lil 8oz black rubber deadblow mallets on mine.

Still need a hammer for adjusting the iron though.

Re: plane gloat, and yet again, looking for advice

James Watriss

>I wanted to write a belated thank you. I read your post probably within minutes, and my mind went in a million different directions at once. The various thoughts that filtered through were...

"Boy that was fast!"

"Wayne anderson?!? I'm not worthy!"

"Oh, come on, he's a normal guy, he probably doesn't want fanboys... even if he may deserve a few. Don't embarass yourself."

"Geez... that's helpful advice!"

"He has that inlay on the bun on his planes... does he really put the hammer to an inlaid part?"

"He likes my plane! He likes my plane! So do I... but I'm sure he knows what he's talking about... wow!"

Now days later I realize I haven't thanked you, or anyone else. So... thank you all. The information hasbeen invaluable so far.