stopped dado technique

Re: That's a nice lookin plane

Marc in Luxembourg

>William,

I do not think so. ;-)

As my fence is of two rails, between which I put the plane, I made no traditional depth stop. The side boards of the plane function together with the double fence as depth stop. I modify depth by chosing rails of different thicknesses.

It sounds complicated, but to cut accurate dadoes, you need a double rail fence. If you do not so, look at the dadoes on the left of the picture above. Those I made with a single rail fence. Sure a little more experience with the tool would help, and maybe I would no longer need this. But it is no bench plane, that I take at hand every day.

Cheers, Marc

Re: stopped dado technique

Jack Guzman from Maine

>For some reason,in the projects I've done, I make alot of dados.Also,I dimension my own wood,so I use whatever thickness is ideal for the application. This means I need more than a couple different sizes of dado plane.I found a nice 7/8 on ebay(not sure where I'll ever need that size) and I'm getting a nicker made for a 3/4 I found but I may end up trying to make the smaller sizes myself.

I haven't tried a sliding dovetail yet.I think it's time I incorporate one into a project.

thanks---Jack

Re: That's a nice lookin plane

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Thanks Marc.I think I can work with that.The ones I've seen before were alot more complicated and reproducing them would have taken equipment that I don't have access to. Yours looks doable.

Jack

Re: stopped dado technique

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>If you go the dovetail route, you no longer need a stopped dado, which makes your sawing task a lot easier, it can be treated as an unstopped dado.

But for stopped dados and other mid-board cuts, I use an azebiki, which is essentially a small crested blade ryoba. I stop the cut with a mortise on the stopped end. The waste between the two cuts can then be cleared with chisels and router plane. I'm also experimenting with this saw for making half-blind dovetails. I got a good quality azebiki at Woodcraft. They come in different sizes.

However, I think a dado plane is the way to go. Chisel a stop, clamp a batten, plane away.

Pam

Re: stopped dado technique

Mike G.

>I think I remember seeing that show, but don't recall what Roy did. What I did was cut my lines with my striking knife and then saw straight across. It probably isn't the right way, but that's how I did it. Once you get the cut started, it goes pretty good. Mine were through dadoes, though. I guess as long as you mortice out the stop portion of the cut first, the stair saw will work. HTH's

Mike G.

Re: That's a nice lookin plane

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>I saw them, and I commiserate :^( Yes, of course, two rails of consistent thickness, the same rails for each dado of the project, will work fine, and if you're not making dados day in and day out, and week in and week out, two fences will surely last you the life of any reasonable project and lead you to consistent results. Holding any cutting tool perpendicular or parallel to the surface you are cutting takes lots and lots of practice. It's definitely not the sort of thing that comes naturally, especially if one's shop is full of boats and pieces of boats most of the time. Au contraire, Mondrian paintings on the walls, hung with a level and plumb bob, help to keep things rectilinear.

Re: That's a nice lookin plane

Steve Knight

>a good job. I had tried that same method on nickers too. a real pain in the rear end. so I went back to a single nicker. email me if you want to make one with less effort.

Re: That's a nice lookin plane

Steve Knight

>actualy a dado is not hard to make really making the irons is the fun part (G) I don't find it hard to make just time consuming. mine is made from two peices of wood or one if you use 8/4. but it does require compound miter cuts.