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Bench top flattening question

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Bench top flattening question

#1

Bench top flattening question

Andrew Alcazar in Charlotte, NC

>Hey folks,

I've taken a fairly long hiatus from woodworking to pursue a graduate degree, but it is about to be over so I'm blowing the dust off the shop. A few years ago I built a southern yellow pine workbench, and I don't think I let the pine acclimate long enough... the top is now pretty distorted. I am no pro when it comes to handplanes so I think I've made a pretty nasty mess. I've been planning a twist into the top. So here is my potential solution.. tell me what you think

I'll cut a piece of 1/2" MDF to the exact size of the bench (28X68). Then I'll shim it until it is perfectly level and flat. Clamp it to the bench... then use a marking gage set to the lowest point around all four edges. Color that in and use it as a reference to plane to.

I'm using the plane (lapped Stanley #7) at about a 30-45 degree angle to the edge in a criss cross pattern. Is my technique correct?

Thanks! Its good to be back in the garage...

Re: Bench top flattening question

#2

Re: Bench top flattening question *LINK*

Tom MacGregor

>Establishing a line to work to is not a bad idea, but I'd use a #5 where it needs the most stock removed & finish up with the #7. Also check out this link about "winding sticks". Use the line as a reference mark and use the sticks to help see how you're doing out in the middle of the top. Some people use just the sticks and no line - whatever you're comfortable with.


Winding Sticks

Re: Bench top flattening question

#3

Re: Bench top flattening question

Ernie Miller Topeka

>That will help and get a set of winding sticks as Tom suggests if it is real off in places you might want to use a scrub plane to knock it down fast. if you don't have one use a rank #5 and crown the blade to make it easy on your self.

Re: Bench top flattening question

#4

Re: Bench top flattening question

Warren Mickley

>I would start with a visual inspection. Sight along each edge of the top from the corners and stand back and sight from end to end. Then I would use a straightedge laeghthwise and crosswise over the whole top. The winding sticks will do little good rock on a convex surface. The idea is to form a mental topographical map.

If the bench is mostly convex, I would plane down the middle and along the edges, avoiding the corners. If it is mostly concave I would use the winding sticks to find the high corns and work on them until ti is out of wind.

It would be nice to have a straightedge as long as the bench but a reasonable job can be done with a shorter one. Take your time.

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