Hand Tool Performance? (Long)

Re: Hand Tool Performance? (Long)

Jack Guzman from Maine

>For carpentry, the tolerances you mention are allowable,but when I'm doing complicated jointery I try for perfect.If you allow a little here and a little there you end up with ill fitting drawers,wobbling legs and crooked cases.This also creates some real difficult glue-ups.I know for sure that my joints aren't perfect,but I don't allow for any slop.It would get out of hand too easy. I go for perfect.Even though I don't achieve perfect,it's enough to try for it.---Jack

Re: Hand Tool Performance? (Long)

Joel

>>Is a partial gap in a mortise and tenon joint of >.009 acceptable?

No - when the wood shrinks the joint will start to fail. I drawbore anyway so a .009 gap would diasppear anyway

>When cutting a board to final length it is +.03 >too long, is it good to go?

that's a 1/32 - no - everything I do is shot to final dimension. If it's too short it eithe rget shimmed or replaced.

>When jointing an edge of a stile it is 87.6 >degrees not 90 degrees, is that good?

Depending on the wood - you might still be able to pull it into square.

I do the best work I can at any given time. Sometimes I fall short of the mark - that's why I have a box of shims and wax. but everything I do is made to fit, and anything less has to be repaired one way or another.

Re: Hand Tool Performance? (Long)

Jonathan Kaplan (OR)

>Good questions...

"Is a partial gap in a mortise and tenon joint of .009 acceptable?"

If the tenon is loose, which is would be if it was 1/100 of an inch too small on all sides, that would be bad, and I'd have to wedge it or shim it... If I cut a tenon 1/100 of an inch too small in a key direction, I wouldn't feel at all bad about having to shim it by gluing a thin peice of the same wood to the side and planing it to fit... (Well, I'd feel a little bad, but I'd get over it quickly...).

"When cutting a board to final length it is +.03 too long, is it good to go?"

I usually work "to the object" rather than to the measurement. So the plans for my current project called for the cabinet to be, I think, 14.5" wide or so, but after looking at the wood, playing with the width, etc., I ended up with something that is around 15.5". But what mattered in this case was that the top and bottom were the same width. They weren't when I made the first cuts, but I then planed them square and even on a shooting board...

"When jointing an edge of a stile it is 87.6 degrees not 90 degrees, is that good?"

Depends. In some contexts, that difference will be obvious *visually* -- we are very good at seeing differences from 90 degrees under some conditions. In other contexts, it wouldn't make any difference at all -- you'd never notice it.

As some of the other responders suggested, I strive to make things look perfect (no visible gaps, nothing visibly out of square, etc) and structurally sound. I don't always succead, but that's what I try for...

jk

Re: Hand Tool Performance? (Long)

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>Brad you need to build a box for those measuring tools. Seriously everything but the 87.6 degree's is more than good for me. Once you get the hand of edge jointing 90 comes quick. Sneaking up on final dimensions is tougher. I think we have all resized projects to fit the new demensions.:)

Re: Hand Tool Performance? (Long)

GiJoe

>Brad,

I think you should focus on what you personal tolerance is. What i mean is that it is very subjective to the job you are doing. .009 is less than 1/64th of an inch, it won't make a bit of differance if it is a non stressed joint. What i like about wood working, is relaxing an enjoying it. If i worry about 1/32nd" in length then its not fun anymore. So just have fun and practice till you feel good about your own skills.

Chris

P.S. Many a pro would like to be that accurate.

Re: Hand Tool Performance? (Long)

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

>I used to work to the 1 thou tolerance withour knowing it.

I found that when edge jointing a board any light shining between my square and the board was bad and when I finally got a set of feeler guages realized how ridiculous my tolerances were set.

Wood moves!!! You can work to tight tolerances but when you come back the next day I'll bet you your board has twisted, cupped, bowed ever so slightly.

Build to have fun. Forget the tolerances and don't get stressed over it. You'll become a nut case if you do.

Dan Clermont