Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Re: Why not a router plane?
Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX
>I misunderstood your first reply, thought you were suggesting using a router for the shoulders. Using one for the cheeks is certainly possible, but in addition to William's objections, the process is just plain slow. I'd rather use a chisel.
BTW, I tried the router route 20+ years ago before I knew about rebate planes. It did work, but it was very tedious having to adjust the blade after every pass.
Pam
Have you tried bevel down?
Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX
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Re: chisel? Cutting action?
Jack Guzman from Maine
>When I chisel cheeks I use a wide sharp chisel.I hold the chisel bevel up with the back level with the cheek and take very thin shavings.If the grain runs down toward the shoulder it tends to try and follow it so I start from the shoulder diagonally and slice toward the end.Otherwise I'll shave toward the shoulder.---Jack
Re: chisel? Cutting action?
Wiley Horne--Glendora CA
>Henry,
I use a chisel because it's faster. I find it's almost always better to pare across grain--side to side--same as if you're planing. You will find that the wood offers about zero resistance to cross-grain paring, and you won't get tearout. Although if the chisel is narrower than the tenon length, then you can expect to get a line of splinters along the edge of the cut. But that's easily cleaned up on the next pass. Or get a wider chisel.
Once you get this down, and get used to reading the grain, you'll start doing what Jack says to do.
Wiley
Re: Why not a router plane?
paul womack
>It did work, but it was very tedious having to adjust the blade after every pass.
As long as your cutting error in the tenon is reasonably small, a single pass with a #71 will trim it to perfect dimension. In this scenario, the router blade never needs adjusting.
BugBear
Re: Why not a router plane?
paul womack
>The router for tenons thing was discussed in detail on OLDTOOLS.
BugBear
no worries � I wasn't offended
Ian in Sydney
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Re: Why not a router plane?
Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX
>At the time my cutting errors were huge. Aside from that, how exactly would you do this with two hands? I suppose you could clamp the plane to the board while making the adjustment.
Pam
Re: see OLDTOOLS thread for various answers
paul womack
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Re: see OLDTOOLS thread for various answers
Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX
>Thanks for the reference, Paul; but I already read it, saw your link yesterday. When I used the 71 for tenon cheeks I was half lapping lots of 2x4's and 2x6's, making a darkroom sink and table. I had a truly crummy little tailed saw and a really crummy circular saw, the laps were a mess.
So, I'll have to say the 71 saved my butt, the sink and table were indestructable and the joints all fit perfectly; but it's not how I'd do it today, neither the joinery nor the 71.
Pam