WoodCentral Forums

Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

Plane etiquite

Posts

Plane etiquite

#1

Plane etiquite

steve antonucci in NW NJ

>I have an old wooden plane about 2 feet in length with no discernable marking on the body. The iron is marked SSS Seigly. If I recall correctly, it was in a box I bought at an auction about 5 years ago. Might have paid $10-20 for the box. I didn't drill the hang hole in the sole, but I admit to using it.

Now the dilemma: The sole is nowhere near flat. I would call it concave. I am debating whether I should make a pass over my jointer to flatten the sole (appears to be maple) so that it could go back into service, leave it alone to keep it as is, or drill holes in it to make a chandelier (scroll down, just kidding.)

Anyone care to educate me on best practices?

Steve

Re: Plane etiquite

#2

Etiquette -Spelling like I's a mo-ron...

steve antonucci in NW NJ

>

Re: Plane etiquite

#3

I don't know alot about...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>woodies, but it doesn't sound like a rare plane to me. Someone else will have to chime in on that one.

At 24" it sounds like a jointing plane, so you'll want a flat and stright sole, if your going to use it. Carefully do this because it will cause the mouth of the plane to open up, so take you time.

Re: Plane etiquite

#4

Re: I don't know alot about...

Dan Donaldson

>if it opens too much by the time you get it flat, you could either put a patch in front of the mouth, or add a resole on the bottom and recut the mouth.

Re: Plane etiquite

#5

Re: Plane etiquite

Todd Hughes

>Your blade is probably from a Stanley made Siegly Transitional Plane which Stanley made from 1901-27 SsS stands for Stanley steel Siegly and is the thin blade used. the thicker blade were marked StS [stanley thick siegly]

I'd try the plane first out first befor doing anything to it....might work fine as it is....Todd

Re: Plane etiquite

#6

doesn't cut worth crap

steve antonucci in NW NJ

>Needs to be flattened substantially.

Just didn't want you hand tools guys posting pictures of me as public enemy #1 on the handtools forum ruining classics.

Steve

Re: Plane etiquite

#7

Hey Lucy, Lucy I'm home...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond,CA

>Please expand, Oh Paul of the side that P.O. No. 1

Inquiery minds...

Re: Plane etiquite

#8

I don't understand your question?

steve antonucci in NW NJ

>my comments are that the sole is not flat. If placed on a flat surface, I could slide a penny under the sole.

Was that your question?

Or my comment on turning planes into lamps? There's a thread slightly below this one on a woodie with bulbs...

Steve

Re: Plane etiquite

#9

Re: doesn't cut worth crap

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Todd Hughes knows enough about the true antiques that he'd have said something if you had a collector's dream. He didn't, so I think you're safe in thinking that you've got a tool, not an artifact. Fix the critter, and let us know how it turns out.

Re: Plane etiquite

#10

Quick question

Bob Hackett

>The iron isn`t curved to match the sole is it?You said you could slide a penny into the full part of the curve and that got me thinking.

If the iron is ground concave then what you may have is a spar plane,used to plane masts and spars for wood boats.

If that`s the case then rather than turn it into a flat bottomed plane with a wide mouth on both sides I`d keep it as is.If this is a spar plane and you absolutely need a flat bottomed plane I have afew I`ll trade.They`re already flat,sharp and ready to got to work.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Plane etiquite

#11

Planer

David Miller from Iowa

>I've dressed transitional soles with both a power jointer and a power planer (my brother's tools, sheeze). I like the planer better but the jointer was functional. Todd's right this has minimal value except as a user, so make it work.

Re: Plane etiquite

#12

Re: Plane etiquite

Ernie Miller Topeka

>It is your plane do with it as you chose. if it were mine and I needed a jointer I would flatten the bottom and patch the mouth if needed. I have heard of lots of people running a plane across the jointer and having great success. I would fallow up with lapping on sand paper to remobe the ripples. If you want a realy nice chandelier you will need to get a #41 for that. but even then I would weld 3-4 of them together to make it look right. I would also drill out the stems on some marking gauges to run the wire down to the bulb sockets. You might try tying it all together with some plow plane blades used instead of chrystal dangles

Re: Plane etiquite

#13

I thought Plumb bobs for the dangles... ;-)

steve antonucci in NW NJ

>

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.