Lie-Nielsen 140 & 60�R?

Yup to both

Christopher Schwarz

>The basic difference: The 60-1/2 R can work on both sides of the tool. The 140 works only on the left or the right -- depending on which version you buy.

If you are looking to clean up machine-made rabbets, the 60-1/2 is probably the best choice because you can swap the tool around to follow the grain -- not always an option with the 140.

If you are looking to clean up tenons, there are those here who prefer the 140, those who prefer the 60-1/2 R and those who prefer the mass and fine mouth of a real shoulder plane (you can probably guess which category I fall into).

In all honesty, though I have both a 140 and the 60-1/2 R, I don't use them as much as I'd like. For shoulders and rabbets, I use a shoulder plane. For block plane work, I use the regular LN 60-1/2 or the LV Apron plane.

Chris

Re: Lie-Nielsen 140 & 60�R?

Clay C in Miami

>Don,

I got the 'left handed' 140 (i.e., the one for right handed people) this summer, and if you like, I'll bring it to the December Guild meeting and you can try it.

I don't have the 60.5R, probably because of roughly the same thinking you're now doing.

I did pick up a very nice #19 on the Bay, and find that I do use that standard, higher angle a good bit. Although, now that I'm a convert to the HA-iron-in-LA-plane cult (testing a HA iron in my LN 164 made me a believer), I probably could have ground a HA iron for my 60.5 and accomplished much the same end. But, considering the nice price on the 19, and the fact that this arrangement doesn't require swapping out irons, I'm happy.

Clay

Clay

The setup factor

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>Don,

When I got a 140 years ago, the rationale was that 'wow, this plane will do a lot of things'. And the 140 will do lots of things. But 'lots of things' leads to getting out the screwdriver, taking off the fence, stowing the fence, finding the side, putting the side back on, taking the side off and and stowing it, finding the fence and putting it back on, etc etc.

Result: I just left the fence on and used mine as a moving filletster. Until Larry Williams' real one arrived (blatant gloat and a favorite topic). Now the 140 will find some other job to do, which does not require getting out a screwdriver.

Well, I'm just throwing this in as a reality check--you may not mind changing setups. But if you do, you might want two planes instead of one to avoid it.

Happy Christmas list! Or are we still working on Thanksgiving? Yeah, that's it, this is for Thanksgiving. Or late Veterans Day.

etc

Wiley

Re: The setup factor

Tony Z.

>Point well taken Wiley! I'm more inclined to desire tools that do a specific job, without fiddling or set-up.

Case in point--my LN 62 LA jack. It does a beautiful job on certain woods with the standard blade. It also does a nice job on tough wood with the 2nd blade, ground with a 35 degree bevel. However, it takes fiddling. Mind you, not a lot, but as I use the LN, and keep honing the standard blade, the length of the two blades is not the same, hence more fiddling when changing blades.

Fiddling can break your train of thought. So, I'm inclined to want tools specific to a job. At least that's a good excuse to acquire more!

II'm in Christopher's camp &...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Also agree a lot with what Wiley say's about the set up factor, it's doesn't bother me too much. I guess I'm use to setting them up, like combo planes etc. One thing the LN 140 has nickers (as an option) get them.

The 140 pair (left and right) makes short work of panel raising.

For trimming tennons I grab witch ever ones closest most of the time. Both planes are nice. If I had to choose only one it would be the 60.5R.

Its a late birthday gift!

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>

Re: Yup to both

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>With what tool do you clean/adjust tenon cheeks?

One tool

Christopher Schwarz

>Don,

I use the Lie-Nielsen 073 for all my shoulder and cheek work. Its width, at 1-1/4". makes it suitable for all casework tenoning jobs (most casework tenons are 1" to 1-1/4" long).

The mass and fine mouth make the tool very easy to use accurately. I bought one of the very earliest 073s from Lie-Nielsen. At work I'm becoming comfortable with the Veritas version. It's also a very nice tool. You cannot lose with either.

I also use the 073 for adjusting rabbets. One very nice thing about the tool is you don't need to fiddle with it or change its setup to perform this operation.

Chris

Re: Lie-Nielsen 140 & 60�R?

Todd Stock

>I have both, and I use the 60-1/2R more often, but only because all the long grain work gets done with a 073 or the 1/2. A few things to consider:

- The 60.5R can be had with cross-grain nickers for an extra $25 - it's a stocked item these days, but not on the web site. The 140 can also be had with a plate-side nicker, but I'm not certain what the extra charge might be.

- The 140 blade will flex when taking a heavier cut without the side plate - a factor when you are trying to maintain square.

Re: Lie-Nielsen 140 & 601/2R?

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>Minor point: I don't think the blade is what flexes. It is the sole of the plane in front of the blade, which is only supported on one side. which twists, allowing a deeper cut on the exposed side of the blade. (It's the same difference, really, since the effect is exactly as you describe.)

The effect is easy enough to counteract, by making a lateral adjustment to the blade after taking a couple of practice shavings, once you realize what is happening.

Re: Lie-Nielsen 140 & 601/2R?

Todd Stock

>I agree - to be more precise:

The blade generates a downward force, transmitted to the bed, resulting in a distortion of the sole relative to the portion of the plane forward of the mouth. This force (and related body twist) varies based on the characteristics of the wood being planed, thickness of the chip, and the speed of the plane through the wood.

Re: Lie-Nielsen 140 & 60�R?

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>Thanks for the info on the nickers. I had no idea that they were available.

Re: Lie-Nielsen 140 & 60�R?

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Also $25 to add a nicker to a 140, plus you have to send it to LN.

Pam