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Keyhole/Compass saws

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Keyhole/Compass saws

#1

Keyhole/Compass saws

Mark Fox

>It's been a while, but as my memories of summer fade, I get more time to think about woodworking and handtools.

Much of my summer was spent doing carpentry (finishing the fence, building a shed/duck-coop) around and outside the house. Since I favour handtools for just about everything, one problem I ran into that I didn't have a ready handtool solution for was cutting interior circles (ie. for cutting holes for ventilation fixtures in the duck-coop).

Anything that lets me leave the jigsaw in the basement is a good thing.

Naturally, I searched the archive for discussion on compass/keyhole saws. Not much here.

I've found very little online web literature on them. Any pointers would be welcome.

Does anybody have any recommendations for or against certain keyhole saws? Anything to look for that might seperate a lemon from a keeper? Any tips for their use?

Re: Keyhole/Compass saws

#2

Re: Keyhole/Compass saws

David Miller from Iowa

>I'm not sure that there is a real brand discussion to be had. Find (or make) a sharp one, and the narrower the blade, the tighter radius.

I find those drywall type, keyhole looking saws to by very handy.

Good luck, David

Re: Keyhole/Compass saws

#3

Re: Keyhole/Compass saws *LINK*

John Aniano in NJ

>Mark,

There are some really great throw-away blade Zeta-brand Japanese compass blade, narrow tapered saws available from Tashiro's in Washington (see link below). I have use these for the kind of applications you mentioned. The blades cut on the pull stroke and are very flexible and can be coaxed into pretty tight "compass" radii. I have most of the blades and handles from Tashiro's and like them a lot!

No affiliation, just a satified customer...

John


TASHIRO HARDWARE

Re: Keyhole/Compass saws

#5

Re: Keyhole/Compass saws

paul womack

>These are also called (for searching keyword purposes "pad saws".

Anyway, I have a very strong opinion on them. The teeth should cut on the pull stroke. This is a coarse teethed saw, with a narrow flexible blade, and the standard blade cuts on the push stroke. So all the books tell you to be very careful in case you buckle the blade. Actually, even with a pull stroke cut you have to be careful.

And in case anyone thinks the "Japanese tool" influence started in the early 80's...

it didn't

BugBear

👍 This page answered my questions

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