Re: ECE jointer plane
Wiley Horne--Glendora CA
>Hi Andrew,
Woodie jointers cause a pretty fair percentage of all the fun in woodworking IMO. They're in the same ballpark as really sharp saws and paring chisels. I have Clark & Williams jointers, not ECE. But my ECE smoother is a high quality plane. The blade is chrome vanadium, which is OK but nothing to write home about. It'll get sharp. The subblade, or chipbreaker, at least on the smoother I have, is very well machined and sturdy. The depth adjuster is a curious thing, which you have to take apart and examine to understand, because there is a mechanical linkage between it and the blade tightening mechanism. The lateral adjust is less effective than just using your hands IMO. The 'reform' feature, or mouth adjust, works well if the plane you buy has this feature--I don't know whether the jointers have them.
I was hoping that Christof Hartge might stop by and talk about ECE jointers because he owns and regularly uses a couple of them. You might find his email from a previous posting and write him about them. One thing you might think to ask an owner is whether it is better to buy the plane with the depth adjuster, or the one with the wedge only. I've got a sneaking hunch that the wedged plane might be the way to go, but you need to ask an owner. After some practice, it's not difficult to hammer-adjust a plane blade.
Maintenance is a good question. I have a number of wooden planes--Japanese, C&W, ECE smoother, Knight, and an old Mathieson. I don't think the Knight ebony has ever moved. But the others move a little. Woodie plane maintenance is not onerous, but has to be attended to. What this means is that you will need something to check flatness with. A cast iron or granite reference plate, preferably 24", or at least a 2-foot straight edge (with a spec on it), is a good investment. Some of the best money you will ever spend in your shop would be on these items, whether you ever own a woodie plane or not. Cause you can check the soles of your metal plane(s), as well as the straightness of rails and stiles, and combination square blades, etc. You could also use a thick piece of glass on a jointer table or table saw, and lap directly on that. But you will need something at least two feet long that will give an accurate test for flatness.
I am wondering what is the availability of vintage Mathiesons in your area. These are very fine planes indeed, if you can find one in good condition, meaning not abused. I bought one off Ebay that is beat to crap, and it works real well anyway. The blade steel is excellent. So a good example would be really nice, I'm certain. This will be an excellent adventure!
Wiley