#7 or #8

Re: #7 or #8

Todd Hughes

>The no. 8 is about the same saw as a no. 7 except it has a apple handle instead of a beech one. On older examples,[pre 1920 or so] 8s were promoted as having a somewhat better steel then a no.7. 8's had "Refined" cruciable steel, no. 7's just cruciable steel.In reality probably didn't amount to a hill of beans.

More important then the saws number is the type of saw, rip or cross cut , size of the teeth and the size of the saw and of course it's condition....Todd

Re: #7 or #8

David Miller from Iowa

>The saws themselves are similar (isn't the 8 the skewback and the 7 the straight back?). However, the teeth may be different and I'd think one needs several saws in the shop. I have a bit of a saw fetish, so take this with a grain of salt, but I "need" a couple rip saws (coarse and fine) and a couple crosscut saws (coarse and fine). They can always be retoothed if needed. Check them for straightness - kinks are a problem. And don't get me started on dovetail and carcase saws I think I need....

Re: #7 or #8

Steve Kubien

>Hi Brad,

I cannot comment on the #7 because I don't have one. I have 2, D8 ripsaws and one crosscut and they are all wonderful. I really love the 28" rip. I think the 8's have taper ground blades which will make them a little easier to use. As has already been stated, avoid kinks.

Regards,

Steve Kubien

Re: #7 or #8

Ernie Miller Topeka

>As long as they are sharp. Not realy many collectible Disstons out there unless you find a Disston or Disston and son. I would keep my eye out dor a D12 or #12 if you want a realy good user you can spot them a mile away by the distinctive handle they are realy nice saws to use.

Re: #7 or #8

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>I think you should get the #8. Its longer and much heavier. The real question is whether you should get a LN or LV. I say, skip the arguments and get a new stanley.

Seriously, I don�t see any real user difference between #7s (bottom of the line) and #8�s. Easy to confuse #8�s, whose blades look like #7�s with D8�s, which are the skew backed saws with thumbholed handles. I don�t like D8�s.

If you find a #7 with a good heavy toe and complete horns on the handle, buy it. My coarsest rip saw is a #7 and I love it.

Adam

Re: #7 or #8

Rick W

>The only #7 have I experience with is a short panel saw that I bought years ago for 35 cents at a flea market. It has a thicker blade than my similar sized #8's.I really like that feature, it makes for a short, stiff saw, very handy for cutting baseboards, for example.

As for which one to choose, I think that either a #7 or a #8 would be a good choice. I'd buy the one that was in the best condition.

Hope this helps.

Rick W

more info

Brad in Cocoa

>All of the #7's I have been finding have the shorter blades on them. All of the #8's I have seen (pictures) seem to have long and tall blades. But from the comments made here both types are available in short and long blades.

Thanks for the info

Brad

Re: more info *LINK*

Ernie Miller Topeka

>Here is a little more info. I would say if there realy are no tools to be found pick up the first nice saw you find sharpen it up and work away. then if in your travils you find a nicer saw get that one and in no time you will be looking for saw till plans. Both saws are good.


Disstonian Institute