Praire Grinder question

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Scott Burr Ben Lomond,CA

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Re: Praire Grinder question

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Grip the nut in vise grips,rap it a sharp blow in the direction of loose with a steel hammer while holding the wheel firmly by hand.A breaker bar and a socket works better,or even better--an impact gun.---Jack

Those plastic bar clamps

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Can't remember the name, but those plastic trigger-type bar clamps are great for this kind of thing. They'll grip the wheel tightly enough without putting breaking-grade pressure on it. I use them on my bench grinder for this purpose.

DON'T USE VISE GRIPS ON THE NUT unless you want to replace the nut. You can get the same "shock value" even better with a box wrench and hammer.

Re: Praire Grinder question

Dale Stansbery

>Make sure you're turning the nut the correct direction. I don't remember if mine is left hand thread or not. What ever you do, don't use the handle to hold the wheel from turning. The teeth are pretty fine and wouldn't survive.

Strap wrench

Bob Hackett

>Like the kind used to remove oil filters.Clamp the grinder to your bench,put the strap wrench around the wheel so the handle backs up on the bench,and then put a box wrench on the nut and hit the wrench with a mallet.Make sure the shaft and nut aren`t left handed thread.

Mainely,Bob

Soak 'em first

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>You need some type of penatrent such a Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster. I'd give a good soaking bebore I tried anything. The penetrant alone probably won't break them loose, but will help to reduce any damage to the threads when you do try to twist off the nut.

Nice looking grinder by the way.

Re: Soak 'em first

Bob Hackett

>If you`re going to be using the wheel again try not to get the penetrating oil on the wheel.I know the older wheels and solvents or oil based products didn`t get along well.

I forgot about the WD40 thing,thanks for takin` up my slack Todder.

Mainely,Bob

Any time Bob ;~)

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>Yeah, WD-40 is merely a Water Displacement formula that is commonly used as a rust penatrant with poor results. PB Blaster never really blew my whistle either, and is over-rated as far as I'm concerned. I'd go with the Liquid Wrench. I also wouldn't be too concerned about the stone getting anything on it as they are easily replaced especially if it is a common carborundum. The main thing is not to damage those threads.

Good luck Scott, be patient and you'll get. Get rambunctious and you'll need to break out your tap and die set, and still might not be able to save it.

Todd O.

Todd O.

Thanks All!.. 1 more thing...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Anybody out there know witch way the treads go on this?

Gonna play with it tonight!

Not guaranteed, but

Dan Donaldson

>On most things like this, the threads are in such a direction that if you were to restrain the wheel, it would tighten the nut. Think of your tablesaw blade nut. In both right and left tilt models, you pull the wrench toward you to loosen and push away to tighten, but if you look at the orientation of the shaft relative to you, you can see that the threads are opposite and that if the shaft tries to spin in the blade, it will tend to tighten the nut. This rule generally holds for anything that spins and is held on by a nut.

Re: Not guaranteed, but

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>I see some threads sticking out past the nut so you should be able to determine which way is which by looking at which way they spirial.

Take your time, and take it eeeeeeeeeeeeasy.

Todd O.

Re: Not guaranteed, but

John Aniano in NJ

>Scott,

I'd suggest getting rid of the old wheel anyway - it looks to be a fine grit. So, even if the stone breaks getting the nut off, it would not be a major loss.

For this kind of hand operated grinder, how about getting a coarse but friable grindstone, say 60 or 80 grit? It would be much less apt to burn the edge than the fine SiC stone that looks to be there now.

If that is the case, use all the suggestions so far given (especially the one about penetrating oil to loosen the nut/arbor), remove the nut and ditch the old stone and replace it with something that you can do some serious work with.

Just my $0.02 worth,

John

Re: Praire Grinder question

Greg Sloop

>If you're dumpin' the stone, then who cares if it breaks? (I'm a big hammer kind of guy!)

Then you can hold on to the shaft with a "real" tool and turn the nut off easier. (Perhaps)

My contribution, is, in short, if you're not worried about the stone, and all else fails - break it off.

(Oh, did I mention I love big hammers?)

*grin*

Cheers,

Greg

Might want to keep it...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>It's a nice wide stone, pretty round as is runout goes, but glazed over good. Might be able to rehab it and reuse it.

Thanks All!

Carbide stone de-glazer

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I bought one of those carbide (I think) stone de-glazing sticks, and it's the cat's PJ's for my Delta wet grinder. I have learned from using it that deglazing should be done more often rather than less so. The wet stone glazes up amazingly fast.

Re: Carbide stone de-glazer

steve knight

>damonds work even better. I have a diamond bar used to true up grinding wheels that worked well.