Improved Coping Saw Part II

Re: Improved Coping Saw Part II

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Bob

That's a beauty!

I particularly like the idea of the rod for tensioning the blade.

Nice one.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Improved Coping Saw Part II

Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia

>Bob,

As usual, outstanding. I think I will give my Sandvik the same treatment. The flimsy metal frame can't tension the blade properly.

Thanks.

Re: Improved Coping Saw Part II

Jeff Aldred

>Hi:

I like the way that the handle fits your hand. Are you going to post the step by step??? Looks like a great project to make for me, and one for each of the kids "going off into the world" kit!

Re: Improved Coping Saw Part II

Todd Hughes

>Nice looking saw..

I have seen a good many old frame saws done like yours where the tighting rod goes though holes drilled in the top of the arms and while maybe OK for light work more then a couple I have seen had this section broken out. I think the better system is the one used by Disston and others where they have iron loops that go over the top of the arms which are tightened by a small turn buckle in the center conected to the rods.Wouldn't be to hard to make, would tighten just as tight and wouldn't weaken the saw like drilling holes in the top does.Maybe somthing to think about if you make any more......Todd

Re: Improved Coping Saw Part II

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>Excellent point....I'll look at that as it allows even lighter scantlings.

Re: Improved Coping Saw Part II *LINK*

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>Yeah....I'm doing a complete article for FWW.

But I put some more detail here to answer a similar question:


More Detail

I'm very interested in how it does

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>in the long haul. Please give us an update. I have a Marples saw that was "updated" with the long bolt and a wing nut like yours it has a 14" blade. It's hard to get enough tension on the blade.

Tensioning question

Dave (Arlington, VA)

>Bob -

I love your tutorials. Thanks. I've learned alot.

However, I do have a question about your saw: why the threaded rod tensioner? Why not the string and paddle design of most bowsaws? Seems like you could get more tension with a paddle than with a wingnut - but, then, maybe I just have weak fingers.

Nonetheless, I alway enjoy reading your articles.

Regards -

Dave

Re: Tensioning question

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>Yes...but myy construction of over a dozen frame saws over the years has taught me that ain't necessarily the case.

The windlass with rawhide will break the blade, but with other materials stretches and I lose tension during use. Moreover, the range of adjustment is too coarse in those situations...I want it tighter, but an entire paddle half-flip breaks the blade.

The rod won't torque it down quite as tight as rawhide, but its precision makes up for it. I get enuf twang out of this one to make excellent, 90-degree turns, which is all I want.

Oh....and never leave rawhide tensioned overnight...humidity changes can break the blade or the handle/frame in the case of larger blades.

Re: Tensioning question

Dave (Arlington, VA)

>Bob -

Thanks! Hard to imagine that you could tighten the windlass enough to snap the blade. Not doubting...just surprised.

Regards -

Dave