Hey, Adam Cherubini....

Taiwanese tap and die

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Frank,

I used the 1-1/2" Taiwanese tap and die set to make my screws. Several suppliers carry them including Harbor Freight, Woodcraft, Highland-Hardware, Rockler, etc.

Here's the problem- all of these sets, including the Beall, make pretty fine threads. My set is 6tpi. I'd prefer a 2" tap with maybe 3 tpi.

I'd love someone like Bill Tindall to make me a tap and die for this size and offer it for sale. I wonder if it wouldn't be too hard to cut by hand, though. You might need two tap and die sets to work up to full thread depth.

So my advice to date has been to buy screws from that guy in NY (Crystal something if memory serves) who makes wooden screws on a screw cutting lathe.

That said, I must admit I was hesistant to make my screws for this reason. Thread engagement is very small, wooden screws are subject to wear, etc. My thinking was with a $20 tap and die set, I could simply make myself a new set of screws each year. Having said that, its been 5 years or so and one screw is worn but still functioning, and the other is fine.

I hope this helps you, Frank.

Adam

P.S. If you decide to make your own screws, be sure to choose the right materials.

Re: Taiwanese tap and die

Frank Mutchler in Colorado Springs

>Thanks, Adam. The Taiwanese tap & die runs about $50 while the Beall is about $30 more. However, they have entirely different approaches to cutting the threads & so I've ordered the Beall system from LV. Woodcraft doesn't stock the larger sizes.

The g'kids will have a nice bench with a traditional leg vise. Would you mind sharing your thoughts on selecting proper wood/grain structure for the 1 1/2" vise serew? TIA

Opps....Should have added to above

Frank Mutchler in Colorado Springs

>If you would like, I'll experiment with a 1 1/2 x 3 tpi screw thread. I don't think it would be too difficult to make. Maybe someone who has a metal lathe & mill will turn a 1 1/2 x 3tpi tap and harden it?? Simple Casenit (sp?) should work fine.

I've cut an awful lot of threads on a lathe but none of them were wood. I can't imagine a lathe spinning at 2000+ rpm and engaging a half nut..........zip and you're into the chuck ;>)

St Roy to the rescue

Bob Hackett

>In the Woodwright`s Workbook by Roy Underhill you`ll find all the info you need starting on page 41,screwboxes+taps.

Mainely,Bob

Re: St Roy to the rescue..kinda...

Frank Mutchler in Colorado Springs

>St. Roy's info is excellent with one exception. He doesn't give me any idea as to how I'm going to find all the time it will take to follow his great instructions ;>)

Lessons learned

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Choose a strong hardwood with a fine grain. The fine 6 thread teeth will simply chip off of woods like ash.

I recommend beech, or maple. I'd stay away from ash and oak.

Also, I used linseed oil as a lubricant. I thought it helped but it was hard to know.

The turned cylinder has to be really round and really uniform, again, since the teeth are so small, so be careful with your turning.

My bench screws are beech and they run in lignum vitae nuts. The nuts are 3" thick (stupid) and it took about 45 minutes to tap each one. The tap clogged after every 1/4 turn. The beech screws run silky smooth in that lignum, but I wouldn't do that again. And the nuts need only be one diameter thick.

Adam