OT: Anyone Here Work with Rawhide?

Re: OT: Anyone Here Work with Rawhide?

Randy Johnson Connersville, IN

>To start with, "rawhide" shoelaces are not rawhide at all, they are leather. Leather can get hard - for a little while anyway - after getting wet, but it will never shrink like true rawhide. Rawhide is just what it says it is. Raw Hide. It has been dehaired, the fat has been scrapped off, and once in a while it has been shaved for uniform thickness. That's all. The only other preperation is streching it on a frame and allowing it to dry.

True rawhide will shrink good and tight and it will have to completely soaked before it will loosen up again.

Potential source *LINK*

Dan Donaldson

>As was mentioned, shoelaces are not really rawhide. Here is a potential source for the real stuff if you want to try it. I know nothing about the place, just found it in a search.


Rawhide source

Re: OT: Anyone Here Work with Rawhide?

Bob Hackett

>Hi Bob,

While rawhide may be traditional there are drawbacks to using it.It is not slip resistant when wet,the edges can be sharp when dry till worn in,etc.

If this is to be functional I`d suggest using what those in the armed forces call 5/50 cord(braided nylon cord used for parachute risers).It`s available in most any army surplus store or catalog.If the dog`s leash breaks you can unwind it from the stick and use it as a field expedient lead,thus gaining points with the wife.

Another alternative would be to use a foam grip from any exercise equipment you find at the "Transfer station"(dump).This is what I use for most of my projects as it helps with my feeble grip.It`s far more comfortable than rawhide.

I think if the Native Americans of the past had a choice they`d all have had 5/50 cord,much as the warriors of today do.

Never know when you`re going to have to do battle with "Mr No-shoulders" down in your neck of the woods.A warrior is always prepared,especially while charged with the protection of non-combatants.;^)

Mainely,Bob

Another source

mike recchione

>Another source for rawhide is your supermarket, in the pet supplies aisle. Dog chew bones are rawhide - you can soak it to soften it and then do whatever you want with it.

However, you might reconsider the notion of a rawhide grip. I've made a bunch of walking sticks, and for me, anyway, the most comfortable grip is well finished wood (or anything really smooth). Depending on the state of your hands (mine are the hands of a guy who works at a desk), something as rough as rawhide may bother you if you use the stick a lot.

Re: OT: Anyone Here Work with Rawhide?

Bruce, a MN Galoot

>I agree completely with using a foam grip. That's what I put on my walking sticks (and I've made a whole bunch). It looks a lot more high tech than rawhide does, but it's a much better grip. I also turn a knob for the top and screw it to the stick with a 1/4" standard thread bolt. That way it can be used as a unipod for a camera. The one last thing I do is add a loop of nylon strap that is fastened to the bolt and is long enough to reach around my hand where I hold the stick. It all makes it easier to hold and use as a support, esp while backpacking or hiking.

I also use a crutch tip or a cane tip on the bottom end. First I put a ferrule of copper or brass on the end and then glue the cane tip on with epoxy. They wear off but they won't slip off. The crutch tip works extremely well in very rough surfaces like you encouner while backpacking, too. Much better IMHO than a steel tip. Plus, you can use it indoors.

Bruce

Re: OT: Anyone Here Work with Rawhide? *LINK*

Hank Knight in SC

>Lee Valley has some very nice brass cane and walking staff tips. See link to on line catalog description.


Brass Cane/Staff Tips

Re: OT: Anyone Here Work with Rawhide?

Dan Moening in Sacramento

>Isn't there a way to "fire-harden" wood?

Slowly roasting the tip over an open fire seemed to harden all the "walking" sticks I pretended to make while in the Scouts.

Here's a site that may have something along those lines:

http://www.primitiveways.com/

Should be all kinds of things to help.

Dan.

Re: Another source

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Chew bones are easy to work with - just soak, cut slightly undersize, sew edge-to-edge with fishing line, and leave to dry for a day or two. The result is a tight fit. But I doubt that you would find the look aesthetically pleasing - a sort of mottled dirty white. Fine for the face of my brass carvers mallet but not on a walking stick.

I agree with Mike - go with a wooden finish.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: OT: Anyone Here Work with Rawhide?

Bruce, a MN galoot

>Fire-hardening has been around for hundreds of thousands of years. It works well, just doesn't last very long. As you experienced, just hold the tip in a fire until it develops a coat of char on it. That's just about it.

Bruce

Thanks, All.

Bob Hutchins in central Texas

>Always learn something useful here.

Thanks, again.

BobH

Re: Thanks, All.

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>Hi Bob,

If you really want the leather/hide feel, perhaps you could coat the wood with hide glue, and wrap the shoe-lace leather over that. If you make a mess of it, the hide glue is easily reversible. Maybe you could drill a hole into the wood to make a starting sort of slip knot to start the winding.

Chloe says hello.