More Stupid Chisel questions.

Re: More Stupid Chisel questions.

Greg Sloop

>Here's how I square things up.

This assumes that the sides are square to bevel/tip.

I use a piece of MDF that I've scribed a line perpendicular to the front edge. I put in the chisel or iron and put the back or front, depending on which gives more projection so I have more reference surface to square on, on the MDF and check the square on the MDF - in short, I compare to the perpendicular line scribed.

(I can't ever remember which way, but in one position, you'll have to turn over the Veritas jig so you have a square surface to index on - otherwise it hits the hold-down which is round. This only applies to very high angles, which have very short projections.)

I also setup some projection reference points. I frankly, don't care for the Veritas angle jig. It's just not very handy for me to use. So I looked for another method. Also, since I set angles anywhere from 20 deg to 55+ I needed something to set them repeatedly - the Veritas doesn't handle this range of angles. So, I just scribe some lines on the face of the MDF - in this case parallel to the front edge - that mark shows how far to project the blade to get a particular angle.

This way I can square and set angle quickly without having to resort to the unwieldy Veritas angle jig. (One just has to find the proper piece of MDF. However since mine's pretty big it's harder to lose than the Veritas angle setter. *grin*)

Oh, one other handy thing I do, is that I use LV green honing crayon/bar on that same piece of MDF. After running chisels/irons through 8000 on my Norton WS, I then drag it over a section of the MDF which has been crayon'd with the honing compound. (A triple function sharpening board....)

No answer on the flattening question - I'll be interested to hear what the experts have to say.

Hope that helps.

Greg

Re: More Stupid Chisel questions.

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>The flattening has to do with finger pressure bieng to far from the end. Just move you fingers closer to the edge and continue to polish away. As for the sharpening jig it's not a must be exactly square kind of process it has more to do with finger pressure right at the end. You can check frequently how square your griding the edge and apply more or less pressure at the end of the chisel. There's a good article in FWW on how to sharpen your chisels 2-3 issues ago.

Re: More Stupid Chisel questions.

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>Gerry,

On the problem of the chisel slipping out of square, after you have it jigged in the Veritas....Once you get the chisel square and with the extension you want, get it finger tight. Double check for square, and then pick up a handy pair of pliers and give the knurled knob another quarter turn. Now it won't slip.

Everything is a pain now, because you're going up a learning curve, and sweating every detail. Next year this time, you'll be freehand sharpening, and things will be getting a lot easier.

Wiley

My own Stupid Chisel questions.

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Anyone else think it�s a bit ironic that the jig used to sharpen a chisel requires a jig to install the chisel into the first jig?

How about this one: You use the jig to hold the chisel�s bevel flat on the stone, then when you are almost done, you turn the wheel to purposely dub the edge. The manufacturer calls it a micro bevel, but isn�t this exactly what happens when you hone freehand by accident?

Adam

Re: My own Stupid Chisel questions.

Gerry Doll

>You've obviously never seen me try to hone free hand. After about 15 minutes of fiddling and cussing a bluestreak, semi-sharp pieces of metal start flying through the garage.

Re: My own Stupid Chisel questions.

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>Gerry,

Learning to sharpen is (at least) a two-step procedure. First, you have to learn what sharp is. The jig will help you get sharp results, even though it can be cumbersome--so the time is still well used.

But then, at some point, you may start getting fed up with the jig. Because you may have a handful of plane blades or chisels to sharpen, and you'd like to get it done quickly, and get on with your project. At that point, you enter the second step, which is learning how to feel the bevel on the stone. Start with a large chisel, say 1", cause it's easier to feel the register of the bevel. You can skew the blade a bit to get more effective registration. Once this second lesson is mastered, and you get it down in your fingers, you're really home free. You'll be able to sharpen quickly.

But the first step is learning what sharp is, and you're doing that now. If you're already way ahead of what I'm saying, please accept my apology.

Wiley

Re: My own Stupid Chisel questions.

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>Some knife makers try to achieve a covex edge as there are claims of increased durability. I have always wondered if a convex edge was beneficial in woodworking. A freehand sharpening will produce such an edge, more or less.

I use the Veritas jig to maintain a constant angle of the long axis of the chisel to the long axis of the stone. I have found the jig less useful in maintaining a constant side to side orientation. I use the "feel" of the bevel against the stone to maintain this orientation.(both index fingers are above the bevel and thumbs behind.) I watch progress and correct pressure to compensate for misorientation. Works for me except for very narrow chisels and I have a problem with them.

I can relate.....

Victor P - Houston

>Just went through this very same thing last evening. (No, not the throwing of semi sharp objects -just the frustration of setting the Veritas jig). I think this jig should have a cam locking mechanism of some sort rather than the screw that sends your carefully positioned chisel or plane cutter off center.

I use a Sterret marking square (?) (you know, the rule with the sliding triangle piece) to get the blade square to the jig and then go about sharpening gingerly. On the plus side there is less wear on the stones. I get usable results with just a few strokes, then go to the next chisel.

Victor - who hates the sorry design of the Veritas Jig, but realizes there is no other good alternative yet.

Re: Convex Edge

Gerry Doll

>As a newbie to Neander woodworking, I've been following the posts of the Esteemed gentlemen who frequent this board re: the tuning and shrpening of chisels and planes.

However, regarding outdoor knives, I've been using either a convex edge or Norwegian edge (V) for years. The reason being edge retention and the ability to field sharpen with minimal tools (a single stone or credit card sized diamond plate.) The Norwegian or Finnish edge can ahve a bevel of up to a 1/2" and the entire bevel is sharpened on both sides. Makes for a sharp, durable edge easy to touch up in the field.

Re: More Stupid Chisel questions.

Alan Hamilton

>Gerry,

About getting that last bit of the back, is it possible that your chisels came that way? Perhaps all you need is one good, long session on the stones to get everything right.

I'm not sure what you meant when you described how you move your tools on a stone. I think you meant that with wide chisels you swipe them side to side, from one end of the stone to the other. If that's what you do, I tried it that way and ran into lots of trouble. Now, with every width tool I move them in and our on the stone--I push and pull, working slowly from one end of the stone to the other; after a few trips I turn the stone around and do the same thing. An advantage of this is that only the very end of the chisel will be polished; the degree of polish lessens up the tool's back. With each re-sharpening the polished area increases a bit, so you never have to have another long session.

On my Lee Valley jig I used some carpet tape to stick a piece of very soft wood (IIRC, I cut it from a paint-stirring stick) about one inch square or so, to the bottom of the screw. For some reason it helped cure lots of the problems I was having with that jig; the main one being that the tool kept moving out of square. The bit of wood makes a lot of difference in how tightly the tool is held in place.

Alan, again going on and on and on and on and....

Re: More Stupid Chisel questions.

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>Gerry,

I haven't read all the responses, but the best thing you can do with that Veritas sharpening jig is heave it has far as you can. Now that that pest is out of your life, get yourself a Eclispe style blade holder to replace it.

now than, build your self a grinding bar, which is nothing more than a 3/4" dowel that spans both wheels of your grinder. Make the supports for it out of scrap 2x6's. Make sure to get it so that it lines up with the center of your stones. attach this bar right up close to the wheels, so close that you can't slide a dollar bill between the dowel and stones.

Now, but your blade/chisel in the Eclispe and agjust what ever way you need to, so that when the holder is registered against the dowel the edge hits the stone at the desired angle. Slide it back and forth while grinding.

To hone your newly ground edges build your self a sharpening box. I found a link to the instructions to building one of these in a thread right here at WC, but don't remember in which thread it was. I built one and it works fantasticly. Perhaps somebody remembers and will post a link to it. Easy to build and works great.

I tossed my veritas holder because everytime I tighted the brass knob the blade would twist. guess you could just hold the blade against a known square edge while tightening the knob eh?

Todd O.

Re: More Stupid Chisel questions.

Bob Rozaieski in Eastern PA

>Maybe it's just my technique or maybe I'm just not that fussy, but I've never had a problem with the Veritas Jig. What I do for square edged chisels & irons is place a small engineer's square (2-3") along the chisel/iron edge and slide the jig up against the square. The jig rests on the square and you can then make any front to back or side to side adjustments and tighten the screw. Again maybe it's just me but I have found you don't need to tighten the screw until your knuckles turn blue. The chisel shouldn't move with normal sharpening strokes. Just place your fingers over the bevel and your thumbs behind the jig under the chisel/iron (just above & outside the roller) and roll. Works great for me and I can sharpen a bunch of chisels pretty fast moving from one stone to the next with just a quick rinse of the jig and iron to remove the slurry from the previous stone. I like the jig because it can do skews as well.

Don't forget - new Veritas jig on the way.

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>

Yeah Bob

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>May be it was just me being a bit to fussy at the time. this ws back in the mid-90's when I was dumber than I am now. I do wish I had kept it and found a use for it, as I will say, it is a well made piece. For the money I can't say as I'd recommend it, but I shouldn't of been so hasty in giving mine the heave-ho.

Todd O.

Gosh Rob, I know you must hate me now. :~(

Re: Yeah Bob

Rob Lee

>No worries Todd - we'll still keep you on the Christmas card list ...

Cheers -

Rob

Thanks to All for the info

Gerry Doll

>Todd,

Thanks for the advise. Found a link for a home made grinder rest like you described.

http://www.imaging.robarts.ca/~amulder/wood/jig-sharp.html

:~)

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

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