Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
What wood?
Richard Gillespie
>I searched the archives but didn't find any info. Probably used the wrong approach with the search criteria.
I need to replace two or more hand saw handles. I know some people use black walnut but can I use a lighter wood such as Birch, Red Birch or Cherry? Is this a case of I can use any wood I want so long as it is sound and isn't a soft wood?
Re: What wood?
wayne
>Beech and apple come to mind as the more common choices, with rosewood being used on the premium saws of the past. L/N and others have used curly maple.
Re: What wood?
William R. Duffield on the Cohansey
>The main problem with using wlanut is that it is an open grained wood, and sawdust, sweat, etc. will build up in the pores and may spoil the looks. Make sure you fill the pores if you use it. OTOH, I would stay away from ring porous woods like oak, ash and hickory, because they have a tendency to fail along the growth rings, especially in radical shapes like saw handles. You might also do well to choose a wood that has more impact resistance than walnut. I've seen the horns knocked off of lots of saw handles, and fractures along the grain in other weak places as well, including in the guard (closed handle shapes only, of course) and running back from the saw nuts.
Re: What wood?
Dan Donaldson
>Wasn't apple a wood that was used for saw handles? I seen to remember that from somewhere.
Re: What wood?
William R. Duffield on the Cohansey
>Oh, for sure. Disston used to use Malus for all their top of the line saws. The Disstonian Institute would be able to tell you when they abandoned that noble practice. Other fruit woods in the Rose family have similar characteristics, and most of these will also work well for saw handles. Cherry and pear come immediately to mind.
Re: What wood?
Adam Cherubini, NJ
>With William's permission, I just wanted to add a few remarks of my own to his excellent notes:
I would stay away from ring porous woods like oak, ash and hickory, because they have a tendency to fail along the growth rings, especially in radical shapes like saw handles.
The grain should be oriented so it runs straight through that little section between the grip and the body where the screws are. On a DT that means usually 45 degrees down.
Also, Disston almost always used quartersawn handles. I'm not sure why. It may have been that he didn't have to kiln dry them, since shrinkage wouldn't effect the shape or fit. Or it may be that a cupped handle would either cup the saw blade or crack the handle.
You might also do well to choose a wood that has more impact resistance than walnut.
We notice that traditional saw handle materials all have high cross grain strength in common. This was undoutedly helpful for the unique shape of the saw handle. It is also helpful (and related) that the material have a fine grain structure that allows fine detail to be carved (like apple or beech).
I feel its safe to assume that the choice of wood species in period tools had more to do with mechanical properties and less to do with color. This is certainly true of planes, chisel and saw handles, measuring tools, etc.
Adam
Re: What wood?
William R. Duffield on the Cohansey
>Very insightful analysis, Adam. You have certainly added to my appreciation of saw technology.
Re: What wood?
Richard Gillespie
>Thanks to one and all for your very informative answers to my query. I've never seen my local hardwood dealer handle Apple, Beech, Rosewood, etc. Guess I need to expand my resources.