stopped dado with hand tools

Re: stopped dado with hand tools

L. Hanson - N. Idaho

>A chisel, a stair saw or back saw, and a router plane will get you there. Use the saw for the edges, chisel out the waste to just above where you want the floor of the dado to be, and smooth that out with the router plane.

Lacking a router plane, a chisel jammed into a block of wood to a preset depth will also work as a makeshift router plane...

Leif

www.norsewoodsmith.com

Re: stopped dado with hand tools

David Miller from Iowa

>You can saw and chisel them as discussed a few threads down. If they are smallish and the wood isn't too hard (air dried is always better for hand tool work) I have done this with a utility knife and a chisel - clamp down your straight edge if scoring in hardwood. A 71 or 271 router makes this much easier.

Procedure *LINK*

Andrew F in Australia

>Leif is right - I teach schoolkids and I cut all joinery in the 14y.o. class (year 9/third form) with hand tools.

Attached is a list of how-to sheets worth saving.

No.10 gives the procedure for cutting a stopped housing (US dado) by hand.

Cheers,

Andrew


Stanley how-to sheets

Re: stopped dado with hand tools

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Tool chest shouldn't require a stopped dado.

Re: stopped dado with hand tools

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>It sounds like FWW is putting the cart before the horse again, reworking traditional projects to fit their advertizers' modern tool offerings, and then pretending their dilettante readership can't do woodsnorking without their clumsy dysjoinery. The masters of the 18th Century, by and large, didn't use stopped dados for carcase joinery, and their casework still stands, and some of us remain in awe of it, in spite of our vast collections of flannel shirts and routah bits. What do they surmise is supposed to hold the stopped dado joint together?

Nice resource

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Thanks Andrew. That should be listed in Woodcentral's links section. A very good primer for all new woodworkers(like me). Whenever I try to do something new, the hard part is finding out the basics. The stuff all woodworkers already know and take for granted.---Jack

Already collected it ;-)

Dan Donaldson

>I will get it added at the next update.

Re: Procedure

Gerry Doll

>Andrew,

Thanks for the link. Didn't know I would start a conspiracy theory.

Gerry

you never know what you're gonna start here

Jack Guzman from Maine

>

Re: Procedure

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>I doubt very seriously there is any deep conspiracy between FWW, or any of the other WW rags, and their advertizers. Their writers just write about what they know, and what they think their readers are interested in. There are lots of ways to figure out what the readers want, and one of those is by looking at who is selling products and can afford to spend advertizing dollars. Ellis has written several times about how thiese things work, and about the separation between the editorial and ad departments.

This is the 21st Century, and things have changed a lot since the 18th, many for the better, some for the worse. There are lots of new tools and new techniques. My original point was only that you should ask yourself "why am I doing this?" as well as "how am I doing this?" If you are not comfortable with changing the plans, then do not do it.

To look at it another way, a mortise is just a short, deep stopped dado. In the 18th Century, they often ran a very shallow dado all the way to the front of the carcase, and then cut and covered the end of it with a dovetail and cock beading. Drawer dividers and pigeonhole dividers were often mitered on the ends, and a v-shaped groove cut into the mating surface. This made the treatment of the front edge of the joint a lot neater.

We will let the digression into news reporting drop, because that's politics, and we don't do that here. I didn't mean to trigger that.

Re: stopped dado with hand tools

Ernie Miller Topeka

>You can allways make a simple router plane AKA Old Womans Tooth prety simple out of a block of wood and a disgarded alan wrench that has been sharpened.