Sharpening

Re: Check latest FWW

Alice Frampton, UK

>Joel,

I believe the reason for using the ruler is to give quick and easy repeatability, and possibly to convey the concept more easily in print (well that bit's my theory anyway), but I'm sure David will correct me if I'm wrong.

quote:it's repeatable without adding a back bevel (which won't work on a bevel up plane or a chisel anyway)

Ah, I think we have the common confusion of a back bevel formed in order to alter the blade cutting angle, and one to facilitate quick and accurate sharpening. The "ruler trick" is for the latter, and is so minute as to be negligible. Try it; you might like it.

Oh, and a deliberate back bevel does have a use on a bevel up plane as it happens. I'm able to use a ridiculously low angle in my block plane (the exact degrees of which I refrain from measuring, 'cos I'm not that kind of woodworker [G]) which would usually crumble, simply by adding a strengthing back bevel to create a less vulnerable edge. The wood is none the wiser ;~)

Cheers, Alf

Re: Check latest FWW

david charlesworth

>Thank you, Alice and Greg for correctly interpreting my ruler trick.

It saves hours of frustrating back flattening and polishing. I flatten on 800grit King waterstone only, to ensure a fit with the chipbreaker.

The band of high polish from the 8000 grit King stone remains narrow and is at a negligible angle. It is very quick and the use of the ruler, ensures the wire edge is polished away every time.

I have been receiving considerable feedback from people who have bought the video (DVD now available), and it seems that the technique is much easier to follow from the film than from articles.

I wish it was more widely used as woodworkers would avoid the frustration and difficulties outlined at the beginning of this thread.

Razor sharp edges are quick to produce and make planing much more pleasurable.

David

www.davidcharlesworth.co.uk

Re: Check latest FWW

joel

>Alf,

I'm not arguing that the idea works - it's just I've never found getting the texture from sharpening up to the back and chasing a wire edge particiularly difficult or time consuming. I don't do the entire back of an iron, just the last 1/8" or so.

Re: Check latest FWW

joel

>Any particular reason why you don't use a diamond stone instead of a water stone for initial back flattening. Do you find a need to flatten the 800 grit stone while you are polishing the back? I take it from your comment that you do a fairly large percentage of the back.

Re: Check latest FWW

david charlesworth

>Diamond stones would work as well, but I think that waterstones cut faster.

Yes, I have to flatten the 800 grit stone, frequently, as described in the article.

The back of the blade is worked across the stone, so almost up to the hole. However I am satisfied if a quarter to three eighths of an inch behind the edge is properly flat, with the manufacturer's grinding marks removed. This will last a long time.

David

www.davidcharlesworth.co.uk