WoodCentral Forums

Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

Hand Plane Sole Flattening

Posts

Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#1

Hand Plane Sole Flattening

Bob Hutchins in central Texas

>Getting close to the time to tune up my 6 hand planes. I've already flattened the backs of the blades and evened out the edge of the chip breakers. Now I want to flatten the soles and adjust the mouths and beds as might be needed.

My question concerns flattening. I intend to use sandpaper on 3/8" plate glass which I must purchase. How big a piece of glass should I buy? The sandpaper is approximately 8-1/2 x 11. I realize I don't need a piece much over, say, 3" wide but how long should it be? My longest plane is a fore.

TIA

BobH

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#2

probably won't work

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>There have been numerous discussions of this topic and, as I remember, the consensus is that the technique you propose will result in the forward part of the plane sole cutting more than the trailing, resulting in a rounded sole, not a flat one. This was certainly my experience as well as the experience of others in the club.

When faced with this problem I take them to a machine shop and have the soles surface ground. I have concluded that lacking considerable skill and experience this is the only practical approach. This approach also works after screwing up the sole with sand paper.

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#3

Here is a recent thread on the subject:  *LINK*

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, Florida

>


Plane Sole Flattening Thread

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#4

... and another:  *LINK*

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, Florida

>


More flattening discussions

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#5

Depends

jim_reed@marietta

>I have had very good success getting soles flat using sandpaper on a marble floor tile. Maybe mine were pretty flat to start with. They check out dead flat on surface plate now. The sole of a plane does not have to be EXACTLY flat to perform its woodskinning tasks. I think other factors (like ill mating surfaces causing chatter or dull blades) are more important to correct. Just my $.02.

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#6

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

Andrew F in Australia

>HI Bob,

I use a piece of glass approx 24" long.

The key is to have the glass on a flat surface, and not to hold the handles, but to press down on the throat of the plane lightly to sand with.

I use kero to lubricate the wet & dry.

Having said this, I use a straight edge first and an old engineer's scraper (who said I don't listen, Paul) to remove the high spots before going to the sandpaper.

Works fine

Cheers,

Andrew

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#7

Jim in Burlington Ont.

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>If you can find a used glass table top I have a couple I bought for a couple dollars at the Reuse center for 10 buck with those tacky legs which I made into cutting boards. One is about 2' long and the other is 3' square. I have read several of the post in the Articles section and prefer the 3 strokes and change direction. It's a bit messy but the carbide powder seems to do alot better job in removing stock. Next plane I flatten I am going to try the filing method discussed a few weeks ago here.

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#8

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

A. Byrd

>Just finished flattening the soles of a # 604 corrugated and a K5 (Keen Kutter) Jack plane using the following method. I used 3M # 77 spray adhesive to stick two 3�x24� 50 grit (Gasp!! ) Aluminum Zirconium sanding belts side by side to a � inch thick piece of glass glued to a 3/4� piece of MDF. I used a combination of the magic marker method and a Starrett straight edge to check my progress. While some will argue that the grit I started with is way to aggressive consider that it took me far fewer strokes on the coarse highly abrasion resistant belts to remove the metal needed to achieve initial flatness than it ever did using the same technique starting at 80 grit on wet dry sand paper. Once initial flatness was achieved it took just a few strokes each on 80, 120 & 220 grit Aluminum Zirconium sanding belts to finish the job.

The theory behind this method is simple; by increasing the size & hardness of the abrasive you remove the excess metal before significant differential wear occurs on the abrasive belts. It is the continued lapping on a differentially worn abrasive sheet/belt that causes most of the troublesome wear patterns (convexity ect.) alluded to in other posts.

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#9

Re: Q/C?

paul womack

>They check out dead flat on surface plate now.

How did you check them? Visual, feeler gauges, lack of rocking, blueing?

BugBear

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#10

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

Tom MacGregor

>I have successfully flattened soles with sandpaper and glass and have found two things to watch out for. Too much pressure on the knob will cause uneven results, very little is necessary. Also remember that glass, even 3/8", is flexable. An uneven surface under the glass can cause trouble. I went to a local glass shop and bought a 12" x 36" x 1/2" piece of plate glass from their scrap pile for $10.00. They even seamed the edges on their belt sander for free.

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#11

Country boy test

jim_reed@marietta

>Wipe off bottom of plane and place it on the plate. Try to rock it. Look under the bottom for light. Try to slip a piece of paper thru the mouth. If it passes all of these tests, it is good enough to use in my shop.

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

#12

Re: Hand Plane Sole Flattening

Ross Canant - NE Texas

>I glue the paper down on my jointer bed. It seems to work fine. That 16" Northfield is pretty stable after 60 years.

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.