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bench redesign how-to

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bench redesign how-to

#1

Steve Kubien

bench redesign how-to

Steve Kubien

>Evening everybody,

My bench top is 3.5" thick, made from construction 2x4's on edge and has a traditional shoulder vise. Lately I have been wishing I had built a deep skirt across the front to use holdfasts while jointing. So, I want to retrofit such a thing. Here is my idea. Tell me what you think of it....

I'll add a 2x10, on edge of course, across the front with holes drilled and spaced for the holdfasts. I was planning to add a 3/4" plywood back to it so it will resist cracking along the grain as the holdfasts are hammered in. The issue is how to attach the 2x10. I could use lag bolts, expansion bolts, biscuits, or a pile of long wood screws (my least favourite option). The 2x10 will be a softwood (probably pine or construction grade spruce) to match the rest of the bench. I should mention that the plywood will extend from the bottom edge of the 2x10 up to the bottom of the bench top (effectively creating a large, wide rabbet.

So, what's way to go about this? I realize that I will have to re-drill the holes for my bench dogs, making them closer to the front of the bench. I had actually been planning to that for a while.

Thanks in advance,

Steve kubien

Ajax, Ontario

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Re: bench redesign how-to

#2

Re: bench redesign how-to

Paul in NJ

>Steve,

I don't think it would be a good idea to glue that wide 2x10 to plywood due to seasonal moisture changes. The wood will shrink and expand across its width while the plywood will not. The 2x10 will probably split, cup, or de-laminate. Why not glue two 2x10's together for a thicker apron that will give your holdfast more to grab onto. As for attaching to the bench top I think glue would suffice. A few lag screws wouldn't hurt either.

Paul Dzioba

Re: bench redesign how-to

#3

Re: bench redesign how-to

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>Or if a rabbet is part of the plan lam a 2x8 to the 2x10 and make the rabbet the offset to fit the benchtop. Then rip off the extra width after glue up to maintain the clean edge.JR

Re: bench redesign how-to

#4

Re: bench redesign how-to

Frank Mutchler

>Steve, if expansion/contraction of the 2x10 is a major concern, why not rip the 2x10 into strips and face glue the strips. You can reduce the size of the rip to create the rabbet where the assembly meets the bench top. Gluing the rabbet to the top should be very strong.

Re: bench redesign how-to

#5

Re: bench redesign how-to *LINK*

Bob Rozaieski in Eastern PA

>Why not skip the wide apron and add a deadman (this is what I plan to do). PW published a good plan for an inexpensive one in their Magazine Extras section of their web site using 2X material to make it. It would allow clamping/support of wider panels than a wider apron would.


PW Deadman

Re: bench redesign how-to

#6

Questions...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Steve, How is your top assembled? Did you just glue the 2X's together or did you run all thread thru it?

If you used all thread just use it to attach the apron. If not then as stated in the other posts glue and a few lag bolts will work just fine (you can cover these in the Greene & Greene fasion with contrasting plugs). I agree that you shouldn't use a plywood backer here. The top of my bench is construction 2X also, I'm planning on using maple for the skirts and or aprons.

Re: bench redesign how-to

#7

Steve Kubien

Answers...

Steve Kubien

>My top is glued and pegged with dowels every 8-10", inserted on angles to help resist splitting apart if the glue ever decides to fail. However, I could insert threaded rod (all thread? Is that a left coast thing?:)) when my 24" brace extension arrives (bought it off the bay from one of our esteemed members). The slab of my bench only measures about 26-28" deep, plus the tool/junk well at the back.

I will investigate this and the deadman option.

Thanks everybody,

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

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Re: bench redesign how-to

#9

Re: bench redesign how-to

David Linnabary

>Since you already have a tail vice to trap your deadman, it makes building a deadman so simple. You only need a single board with a row of peg holes. You can get way elaborate on these things but it's just not necessary. Although, I sometimes use a clamp to hold my work snug against the front of the bench but not often.

Another solution that is kind of elaborate that I hardly ever use traps the work between a set of wood blocks that hang, one from the dog holes on the front of the bench the other from the dog holes on the tail vise. This is for big panels, doors and the like, but I normally don't bother with the silly things and just use a clamp to hold my work against the bench.

David

Re: bench redesign how-to

#10

Steve Kubien

Re: bench redesign how-to

Steve Kubien

>I should have mentioned that my tail vise is enclosed. Apparently Norm built something like this at one time. Still, a slave/deadman could be put in my tail vise. I would have to come up with a way of allowing it to exert pressure towards the shoulder vise to help 'wedge' the work in.

Lots to think about......

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

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Re: bench redesign how-to

#11

Steve Kubien

"ism's..."

Steve Kubien

>See, in Canada they could be referred to as, "Dem long screws eh!"

Language can be very interesting, especially whe different versions of the same one are spoken.

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

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P.S. I wonder what Yogi Berra would call it?

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