Titebond Glue Query

uh oh...

Joe Hurst

>Andrew-

You might be outta luck. If memory serves, T2 requires a min. working temp (the wood, the glue, and the shop) of 55 degrees F. If the temp falls below that, you may end up with something they call "chalking." The moisture will evaporate, but the glue won't cure properly. One tell-tale sign is that the dried glue will appear opaque and white, rather than yellow transparent.

Odds are good that the bond won't be as strong as it should be. Now you can either break the joint now, clean it off, and reglue (Titebond 3 is supposed to work in chillier shops. Polys cure slower, but should also work for you). But if you're "on the line," maybe the joint is good enough as is. Bring it inside if you can and test it for yourself. Just don't trust too much weight on it until you're absolutely sure.

-Joe

Re: Titebond Glue Query

Steve Kubien

>Andrew,

I cannot answer your Titebond question as I have never used it before but I do have an idea....

Before taking off the clamps, is it possible to drill a few holes across the width of the top and hold everything together with threaded rods? If you space them with some care, you can avoid the future locations of bench dogs and such.

Sorry, it's the best I can offer.

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

remove the _9 to email

Re: Titebond Glue Query

GolfSteve in Calgary

>Where the heck are you? I didn't think there was anywhere in Canada that's consistently below 55F (13 C) at the moment. I can see it getting cold at night, but during the day it should warm up to the 15 deg C range.

Anyway, I keep a thermometer in my shop, and an hour or two before starting a glue-up, I turn up the heat until it gets to be around 20 C.

I use one of those 4800W 240V electrical heaters for this purpose. I only turn the heat on when I need it to conserve $$$.

Temperature is also critical to many finishing activities. I've been dabbling in French Polishing lately, and keeping the temperature up is definetely beneficial.

Don't let your glues freeze in the winter either.

Cheers,

Steven

ps. I don't have a solution to your problem. Can you bring the piece into your house to warm it up? Perhaps Titebond has a web-site with your answer, or a 1-800 number you could call for help.

Re: Titebond Glue Query

AD

>Steven,

I am in Hobart, Tasmania (Australia 43 degrees South). Just moved South fo a change of career from aviation to wooden boat builder (see www.woodenboatcentre.com ) Average temps at the moment are 37-53 F. I made up a test piece last night to see how it sets. I might bring the benchtop inside for a day before I let off the clamps.

I have emailed titebond to ask the query too.

regards,

Andrew

Re: Titebond Glue Query

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>What about Poly glue like Gorilla glue? I definetly would bring the top in for a few days to let it heat all the way thru.

Re: Titebond Glue Query

GolfSteve in Calgary

>Ahh. I looked at your e-mail address and assumed that you were in Ontario. Tassie's a beautiful place. I work a lot in Queensland. Last time I checked the weather in Brisbane there was quite a cold snap passing through. A coworker is down there now and will be taking a short side trip to New Zealand for a ski trip with the family.

Good luck with the glue up. Hopefully you can just bring the bench into the warmth and things will cure properly.

Cheers,

Re: Titebond Glue Query

Chris Knight

>You don't say if you have used Titebond II before.

I have found that:-

Squeeze out is invariably more "rubbery" than Titebond original and when in globs or up against a non-absorbent surface like a metal clamp, it will remain liquid or at least tacky for longer than Titebond original. The bond lines in wood however are OK.

This is at normal temperatures.

Chris

Re: Titebond Glue Query

Jesper, Denmark

>Hi Andrew,

I built a dinghy in New Hampshire three winters ago in a shop that was well below freezing at night and maybe up to 55� during the day. Cedar strip and Titebond II was used. I never noticed any problems with the glue, and the dinghy is still in good shape.

Granted, the stresses are not as great as in a bench top and a gadzillion bronze nails probably also help - but still no indications of the glue not setting.

Re: Titebond Glue Query

AD

>Hi Chris,

I have only used it on a couple of smaller jobs in the warmer weather. I put every heater I had in the garage and raised the temp a good bit for the day. I took the plunge last night and decided to remove the clamps. I am convinced of a good bond as one of the cauls was stuck so well to the benchtop that I had to use very heavy mallet blows to take it off and it did not fail at the glue joint but tore away some timber!

Now on to flattening.

thanks

Andrew

Success!!

AD

>Thanks for all the responses. A few hours of heat must have helped as when I cut the waste off the ends of the bench today, I tried with a mallett to bust the timber at the glue line with not one of the 10 glue joints breaking - only in the timber between the joints.

Thanks again

Andrew

Re: Titebond Glue Query

steve knight

>it may set if it gets warmer. it does effect strength but in such a large glueup I doubt it matters much.

Must be close to time for a couple of Middies?

Jesper, Denmark

>

Heat for glue up

Bob Hackett

>One trick that`s worked well for me when the shop gets too cold for glue is to just use an old electric blanket to heat the work where it sits.It`s a trick I learned working on old boats.Many times the door isn`t big enough to bring the boat inside,especially with the mast up.;^)

Mainely,Bob