Flea market buy

Correction - the plane is a #4

Johanna

>

Re: Flea market buy

Bryan Danner - Broad Ripple, IN

>I can't speak for all your purchases, but the 4 1/2 sounds like a Type 20 (1962-1967). It's not very collectable, but could be made into a serviceable user.

Re: Flea market buy

Todd Hughes

>The 4 1/2 is a later plane post 1960 and is not made as well as older planes and is not as popular I think as an earlier plane with most users......Don't know if i have seen a Hand crank drill marked with the name "Leader" sounds like one of those drills that were made in Germany that you see though just speculating.Guess they work but are kind of cheap, Yankee and Millers Falls ones are better and I would stick with them......on most 135's you just pull the collar back under the bit and it releases the bit.I think some older ones have a collar that screws down on threads like the drills did if I remember right.Phillip bits for these screw drivers are not real common but if you dig around at the flea market you should be able to find some.....Don't know if I would have paid what you did [unless the 135 is Mint,... $20!] but hey it's only money!......Todd

Re: Flea market buy *LINK*

Andy Lincoln,in Dearborn,MI

>Johanna,

Below(hopefully ) is a link tp McFeely's.They sell "bit holders" that will fit into Yankee drivers and allow usage of all the modern bits. I can still amaze some of the guys at work when I can get the job done before they even find a cordless drill that isn't being used.

Andy


McFeely's

Re: Flea market buy *LINK*

Aaron Cunningham

>Can't comment on the plane and the drill, but I just aquired a 135 in the same state as yours (one bit) and Highland Hardware has more 'traditional' bits available if the adapter doesn't suit your fancy. Apparently we'll need the Medium size.


Highland Hardware Yankee Screwdriver Bits

Re: Flea market buy

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>You might check around at local hardware stores for your Yankee driver bits - some of the older ones will have a little bin of Yankee driver bits. There are three shank sizes - small, medium, large. If I recall correctly, the 135 takes the mid-sized bits and is one of the most useful sizes in general.

Clean up your tools - some people like mineral spirits, others like WD40, I like disassembling them and cleaning with SOS pads - wax them,* and see how they work. Type studies and all that are useful in general terms and can tell you whether a tool is likely to be great or likely to be stinky, but the final test is how the tool works. Buy some pine and see how they work.

*Except don't wax, oil, WD40, or otherwise add slipperiness to the jaws on the hand drill, or bits will slip like mad. Don't ask me how I know this.

Be warned: you may be stepping onto a VERY slippery slope. Come back and visit often, to tell us about your successes or vent your frustrations.

Yankee Bit Sizes

Steve Reynolds

>Thanks for the link, Aaron, I went looking for these once and was unsuccessful in finding them on Highland's website. I think a quick note about the bit sizes used by YANKEE will be helpful to those looking for spare bits.

They way I have it figured from measuring a lot of different bits is:

the pushdrills take a 5/16" bit,

the Nos 35 and 135, as well as the X33H series take a 7/16" bit,

the Nos. 30 and 130 take a 9/16" bit,

and the very large Nos 31 and 131 take a 5/8" bit.

The X33H series is the Handyman style with a magazine for holding various bits. (That is except for the 2H and 33H which are small and do not allow for exchanging bits). The basic models are the 30, 31, and 35, which do not have return springs. A "1" prefix is added to the basic models to signify that a return spring is used, eg. 130, 131, and 135. The model numbers do not progress in a linear fashion in that the 35 is the smallest, the 30 is the midsize, and the 31 is the largest. A suffix of "A" indicates that the ratcheting mechanism is an improved version.

Highland's ad for the Schroder products reads, "5.5mm diameter bits for Schroder's Compact driver also fit Yankee model 135; 7mm diameter bits for the medium driver also fit Yankee model 130. Large bits are 8mm diameter." When I do the math the Nos. 35 and 135 need an 11.1mm bit, the Nos 30 and 131 need a 14.3mm bit, the Nos 31 and 131 need a 15.8mm bit. Of the ones they have listed, the 8mm bits might fit a pushdrill, but the 5.5 and 7mm bits seem too small for any of the YANKEE products. Has anyone used these Schroder bits in YANKEE screwdrivers? Did they work?

I have some some two piece sets of Phillips bits for the #35, 135, and 233H series

Yankees. I'll put them in the classified section for sale.

Regards,

Steve

Speaking of Yankee...

David Miller from Iowa

>I picked up a spiral screwdriver a while back that had to be a Yankee mechaism. Those of you familiar know that there are real distinctions between the Yankee and Miller Falls/Goodell Pratt types.

Anyway, this one had a bakelite pistol grip and was marked Wards. Looked closely for any Yankee reference but there was none.

Anybody ever see these spiral screwdrviers with a pistol grip?

Re: Yankee Bit Sizes

Aaron Cunningham

>Thanks for the additional information and clarifications, Steve.

Your comments about size made me go back and look at the �little black book� that I keep my notes about tools in. (You never know when you�re going to need to remember these things. :) ) It turns out mine is a 130A, not a 135. Size suggestion was wrong because of that.

Re: Speaking of Yankee...

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>Anybody ever see these spiral screwdrviers with a pistol grip?

I never have. Would like to tho.

Todd O.

Re: Speaking of Yankee... *LINK*

Angelo in Cornwall, NY

>I have a Wards with a wood pistol grip. Same size as Yankee 30. Pretty comfy. Lotsa torque for final tightening.




Gracie's Dad

Re: Speaking of Yankee...

David Miller from Iowa

>Interesting item, Angelo. Mine is similar, but the handle is longer in the perpendicular plane and more slender. I'm traveling and won't be in the same room with the tool and the scanner for a couple weeks, but I'll post it then.

Thanks!

Johanna

>What a great response! I bookmarked the Highland HW page, printed Steve's page of general info -- and I'll check out the classifieds for your ad, Steve.

Will also check my local hardware store. It is an old county hardware and has lots of wierd stuff for rural folks. They just might carry the bits, too.

I am in the process of flattening the plane sole -- it does not need much. The blade appears to be new -- evidently a replacement. It should be easy to sharpen since it has not been mangled.

The drill and the Yankee screwdriver needed no work at all -- they were in excellent condition.

You're right -- old tools are, indeed, a slippery slope. Good thing I live in a place with only a couple of places to buy them!

HELP! NEED TO FIND BITS

JULI

>My brother recently purchased a Dunlap hand drill (similar to the ones we called a Yankee drill when we were kids!). He would like to find bits for it, as it only came with one (but he only paid $1 for the drill at an auction!).

Anyone have any ideas on where I can find bits for a Dunlap? Or will Stanley bits fit?

Thanks.

Re: Flea market buy

JULI

>My brother recently purchased a Dunlap hand drill (similar to the ones we called a Yankee drill when we were kids!). He would like to find bits for it, as it only came with one (but he only paid $1 for the drill at an auction!).

Anyone have any ideas on where I can find bits for a Dunlap? Or will Stanley bits fit?

Thanks.

Re: Flea market buy

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>The bad news quickly: no, Stanley bits probably won't fit; and the bits that do fit are very hard to find, as far as I know.

The Dunlap drill I have uses bits with cruciform shanks - round shanks with four right-angled grooves milled in their length, so that when you look at the end of the shank, it looks like an "X" or a cross, depending on how it strikes you. Dunlap was a lower-end Sears brands, if I understand correctly, and the Craftsman (high-end Sears) drill I own uses the same pattern. The bit shanks on the few bits in both are very sloppily ground, so the "X" shape looks like it was done by a four-year-old who's been up all day. Goodell-Pratt also used cruciform shanks, but, on the example I own, they're beautifully milled grooves.

I'm not an expert on Dunlap tools, and they may have changed their bit style on other models. If you look at the end of the chuck and find four jaws that tighten as you turn the collar, it was designed for cruciform-shank bits. On the other hand, if you see a round hole in the end of the chuck, keep reading.

Stanley uses a round shank (that fits in a round hole in the end of the chuck, see prior paragraph) with a little rounded notch partway up, which notch is engaged by a ball in the drill's chuck to hold it in place.

If anyone can correct me and has a source for cruciform-shank bits, PLEASE post it here - I'd love to have some bits for these drills. Juli, if your brother's drill appears to take a round shank, you can contact Lori at Stanley (1-800-262-2161 ext. 55839) and order a bit; or ping me offline, and I'll measure the shank diameter, so you can try a drill bit that size before ordering.

One thing I don't know is how well jaws for cruciform shanks grip a round shank. It might be worth experimenting with a regular twist drill - but I'd expect slippage, as the leverage you can exert is pretty low. I suppose with a careful hand on the grinder, you could grind the shanks square (I wouldn't try for the milled grooves - just square), and get good engagement that way.