"cool" grinder

cool

dave jeske

>I picked up a similar grinder but haven't set it up yet. What about running it in the opposite direction so the water doesn't run down the blade?

dave

neat-o!

Steve Kubien

>Sounds like $10 of very well spent money. Nice gloat.

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ont

remove the _9 to email

Re: cool

Jack Guzman from Maine

>The water running down the blade is a good thing.It keeps the blade cool better.Besides,according to an indicator on the side of the machine,that is the recommended stone rotation direction.-Jack

A cool...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Barn fresh find. Nice.

Re: "cool" grinder

Alan Hamilton

>Jack,

You're going to love it.

I picked up a great big one at a little antique shop a few years ago. It's the kind with a tractor seat and pedals that turn the wheel.

It's very fast removing large defects. Things that would take me an hour or two to fix on waterstones takes less that five minutes on the wheel.

I'll second the idea of making it so the top of the wheel turns away from you. Heating the tool isn't a problem, the water and relatively slow speed ensure everything remains very cool. The real advantage is that it's much less messy when the water is thrown away from you. DAMHIKT.

Alan

Re: "cool" grinder

Jack Guzman from Maine

>I always assumed that a stone should turn away from you but the directions on the grinder, as you can see, say otherwise. Anyone see any reason for this? I'll probably try it the other way after awhile if the water bothers me but it works fine as is.---Jack

Re: "cool" grinder

Dan Donaldson

>The Tormek is the same way as it comes. The wheel turns toward you from the top. They make a different tool rest that goes on so that the wheel is turning away from you. I believe that it is a bit more agressive turning toward, but easier to control and less messy away. I set mine up for the away direction and have never tried it the other way.

Re: "cool" grinder

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>My Delta wet-wheel grinder also runs with the water coming toward the grinding point, with the angles being such that the water slides over the chisel/iron back and cascades all over my toes. I note, though, another set of holes that would allow for grinding the opposite way. Maybe I'll try it sometime.

small question

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>Jack how or did you bother to true up the stone? I have seen a few hand cranked ones with rough looking surfaces and passed because I couldn't figure that out. Thanks Jim

Re: small question

Jack Guzman from Maine

>I removed the stone from the machine by taking out the center shaft. There was about a 1/8 inch clearance between the shaft and the stone. I wrapped a few turns of sheetrockers paper tape aroung the shaft and that centered the stone better. There was still a tiny bit of out-of round but I can use the rest now and I figure I'll eventually wear the stone true.---Jack

truing wheels..

Jonathan Ronnow, Sweden

>not for the faint of heart but... an angle grinder with a diamond cutting wheel will work. Turn the (wet)grinder on, outside is nice since it can get messy, and lightly grind the wheel. You can support the grinder on the toolrest, just be careful to use a light touch.

Or... use a diamond-pointed stone truing tool. Clamp the toolrest horizontally and clamp a stop onto the truing tool, to control how deep it cuts the stone. The complete guide to sharpening shows this being done on a bench grinder, but the principle is the same.

Im sure there are other ways, but this is how ive done it so far..

Jr

Re: "cool" grinder

Paul Brandley

>I have one something like this made by Prairie. Unfortunately I spoiled it years ago while trying to bring an old axe back to life. Mine has a lead or Babbitt bushing that got deformed by my Appling to much pressure, making the wheel run out. Does anyone have any suggestion on how I could repair it, short of buying a new wheel?

Re: "cool" grinder

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>How about drilling out the babbitt and rebushing the wheel. Then redressing the wheel true around the new center.JR

Re: "cool" grinder

Paul Brandley

>Do you mean buy a standard size bushing at an industrial supply house and press it in? If so, will the stone get damaged as the bushing approches the other side, assuming I can find the correct combination of I.D. & O.D.?

Hey, Rob Lee.....

Frank Mutchler in Colorado Springs

>perhaps your could comment on the rotation of the wheel.

The LV Mark II (and others) all rotate towards the operator. I think they call it a 'leading' grind vs a 'trailing' grind when the wheel turns away from the operator.

When forming/sharpening the bevel, a leading grind is standard. When stropping, a 'trailing' grind is recommended. I'm not sure but I think it has to do with the formation of a wire edge??

Re: "cool" grinder

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>Assuming the babbitt is a large enough diameter to drill oversized and you support the stone on a board with a slightly oversized hole drilled into it. This would allow support close to the new bushing. I don't think the stone would get overstressed. If the babbitt diameter is too small and cannot be drilled to allow a bushing to slip into the bore,could you drill it out completely and epoxy the new bushing in the original bore? Then retrue the wheel either way. JR

Re: Hey, Rob Lee.....

Rob Lee

>Hi Frank -

Yes - you're correct, in this case it's the wire edge...

There are also other reasons for a "towards" or "away" orientation...

Safety (on buffs, soft material), heat dissipation, visibility (water/lubricant can build up on the tool edge if towards), friability and strength of the sharpening substrate (how hard it is, and how quickly it wears).

There's really no rule, but there will be a "better" choice for any given configuration...

Cheers -

Rob

Re: "cool" grinder

Paul Brandley

>Thanks for your ideas. I'll have to 'dig it out' and take another look at it. It sounds feasible. I had been thinking along the lines of laying it on its side and leaving the shaft in place and trying to heat the bushing, but I was afraid I'd crack the stone. Paul

Re: "cool" grinder

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>IIRC babbitt bearings are "poured" so molten babbitt material would be banked to limit flow and poured around an axle and reamed to size. It would cool rapidly and probably not transfer much heat to the stone. Repairs? I don't know. I would go with a rebore and bush personally. I don't have any experience with babbitt.JR