Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Stanley 78 blade angles
Al in Galt
>Hi
I'm just starting down the hand tool road. I've been warned it's a slippery slope.
I would like to sharpen the blade on my Stanley 78 but I'm not sure which of the many angles & bevels presently on it is the correct one to use.
What is a good primary bevel and/ or secondary bevel to use on hardwood?
Thanks
Al in Galt, On
Re: Stanley 78 blade angles
Jim in Burlington Ontario
>Al there's a thread a few days back I posted on the usefullness or lack thier of the stanley 78. The angele I sharpened mine to was 30 and micro to 35 degree's. I really don't think it's capeable of fine work the fence is just to flexible and the slitter is useless.
Re: Stanley 78 blade angles
David Miller from Iowa
>Hi Al � welcome to the quieter, more therapeutic side of woodworking. I�d suggest you sharpen your cutters the same as you would any plane � 25 to 30 degrees with a bit more micro bevel. I�ve found the 78 to be quite serviceable, providing the cutter is sharp and, maybe more importantly, you use clear wood. The old timers, while not taking away from their skill, had an advantage of abundance of old growth, clear wood, and that makes all the difference. Also, you will find that kiln dried hardwood has become �case hardened� � the difference between hand working air dried and kiln dried hardwood is night and day. A sharp cutter and a good piece of wood make it easy to be a non-electric woodworker. Take either away and it�s an exercise in frustration. Good luck and welcome to the slippery slope. Soon you�ll be planing wood just to feel the shavings peel away. David
Forgot to mention...
Jonathan Peck - N.Y.
>...down below. The spur should be removed when working with the grain. If you leave it on, the spur will follow the grain and make it impossible to keep the fence registered against the workpiece.