Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
ultimate lapping surface.
Steve knight
>Well it would be if it was 48� long (G) but still 24�x36� is nice. I found out it does not cost me any extra to get a full sheet of zirconia belt material then it does to get it in 4� or 6� wide. This is far easier to apply and I can use all of the belt not just the area of a 6� wide strip. Though I choose not to have it made PSA as that almost triples the cost of it. This sheet was about 13.50 for 120 grit. It should last a month or two I think.
Re: ultimate lapping surface. *LINK*
Steve knight
>I knew I left something out. this is a granite surface plate from grizzly.
surface plate
where do you get the sandpaper like that?
Dan Donaldson
>
Re: where do you get the sampaper like that?
Steve knight
>A & H abrasives
18008316066
they have a webpage but it is not much. they have really good service and if you order by noon usualy you get it the same day. I get them to make sleeves for my inflatable drum sanders and discs for my makita sharpeners. lots of choices in materials too.
Re: ultimate lapping surface.
Tim of San Leandro
>Hmmmm.....that is one heck of a surface plate.
I've got a 24 inch x 9 inch and it is big....can't imagine 24 x 36.
Is Ipe that tough even on zirconia abrasive?
Tim
Re: ultimate lapping surface.
Steve knight
>the bigger the surface the more life you get out of the abrasive. yes ipe wears it out pretty fast. well faster then you would think. the problem is getting even wear. the ends and sides always get less wear so they cur faster and cause rounding.
36" is a bit short for nice long strokes on a 24" plane.
Re: ultimate lapping surface.
paul womack
>...I've got a 24 inch x 9 inch...
Where did you get that? It sounds perfect for the blue-and-remove technique of plane sole flattening.
BugBear (who doesn't lap anything other than blade backs)
Re: ultimate lapping surface.
Roger Nixon
>That would be cool except then I'd be tempted to flatten my bench planes as well as smoothers :).
Re: ultimate lapping surface.
Steve knight
>BugBear (who doesn't lap anything other than blade backs)
because bugbear does not make wooden planes (G) someone had to flatten them the first time (G)
Re: ultimate lapping surface.
Tim of San Leandro
>JWW....but they are local to me so I don't pay shipping.
You can get a 24x18 surface plate for essentially the same price delivered from Grizzly if you are not within driving distance of JWW. I thought about the grizzly....but I don't have need for 18 inch width. so it would be wasted space....nevermind that trying to move a 24x9x3 plate is difficult enough - can't imagine what I'd do with 24x18x3.... : -o
Great post thanks
Jim in Burlington Ontario
>
Re: Discs for your Makita
Frank Mutchler in Colorado Springs
>Steve, would you please elaborate on these discs? Size, grit, how you attach them, what you use them for??? I've been thinking of selling my Makita now that I've replaced it but I was toying with the idea of keeping it and using it to flatten chisel backs, etc. Any comments much appreciated.
Re: Discs for your Makita
Steve knight
>The stones for the Makita are ok but they do take work. Everyone I have used always develops a hump on one side of the stone. I never have figured that out. Even the non Makita brand and even the Shapton stone I got for it all do that. It does not seem to matter much sharpening freehand as long as it does not get out of hand. I think it is some aspect of free sharpening that causes it.
You need a good flat base to use the Makita with sandpaper. I use some diamond laps that I wore out. But you could use the stone if it is flat enough or use the stone base after removing the stone and filling it in with masonite. The machine needs a 8mm bolt to hold the platen on. But the holes in the laps were bigger so I had to use a reamed out nut to fill in the difference.
I use 80 grit zirconia belt material PSA backed with a �� hole in the middle. I just got 120 grit to try yesterday.
I use the Makita freehand to hog most of the steel off then finish on my Shapton stones.