LV Beading tool cutters

Re: LV Beading tool cutters

Rob Brophy Niagara Falls ON

>Hi Mike,

I use the LV blades in my Stanley 66. No problems with fit, but I think they could stand to be a little thicker...Rob

Re: LV Beading tool cutters

Mike G.

>Thanks Rob. I'm a true bottom feeder, so the price of the LV cutters looks better to me than the L-N price. I'm not a machinist or blacksmith either, so those options, ie. making my own, are out too. What comes of being a cheap bastahd, I guess. :^)>

Thanks again, Mike G.

I have both LV and LN cutters

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Mike

I,too, bought the LV blades thinking that they would be a cost saving. Too much of a bargain as they were unused and unwanted by a fellow woodworker. Perhaps he knew ...

The LV blades work in the #66 but are better suited to their own beader. They are both shorter and thinner than the LN blades. The LN blades are less likely to flex and, as a result, they cut so much better.

Unless you plan to buy the LV beader, or make your own, spend your money on the LN blades.

Or, if you are prepared to compromise (and prefer to bottom feed - no criticism intended at all), make your own cutters out of an old bandsaw blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: another option  *LINK*

paul womack

>


http://www.toolbazaar.co.uk/Spares.asp#15

Re: cutter stock

paul womack

>...make your own cutters out of an old bandsaw blade.

I'd recommend a big handsaw, or defunct (power) circular saw as stock material. Thicker blades work a little better, although they're more work to file up in the first place. This is particularly important for reeding cutters, where the points can otherwise be too fragile.

BugBear (who figures everybody's already seen his scratch stock design)

Re: thoughts and suggestions

paul womack

>Does anyone know, or has anyone used the set of beading cutters from Lee Valley in their No 66 stanley beader?

Quick fact-let. Lee Valley (as far as I can see) don't claim to make blades for the Stanley #66; Lee Valley sell only their own beader, and blades for it.

Lie Nielsen do sell a #66, and the cutters.

The ever reliable B&G has reference item on the #66

Reviewing these, I notice that the #66 (and the LN derivation) have the blade clamp a long way from where the cutting is taking place. I can see where a thick blade would be pretty essential in these circumstances.

The Veritas beader holds the blade a lot "more", and can probably use thinner cutters with good success. This may explain why putting the LV cutters in a #66 body doesn't work.

I also notice (for the first time - duh) that the #66 presents the blade to the work at an angle. I don't like this - it means that (in theory at least) you need to grind your blade to a different shape from your moulding (like a moulding plane).

This complicates what is, at its best, a simple tool.

It also means that the #66 can only cut in one direction, which is restrictive compared to the more conventional design. Being able to push and pull to suit the work (especially at the ends) is very helpful when performing scratching tasks.

BugBear (who's used his home brew stock quite a lot)

Re: thoughts and suggestions

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Bugbear

A couple of comments:

Firstly, regarding your statement, "the #66 can only cut in one direction", I've not experienced any difficulty using the #66 (plus LN blades) in both directions.

Secondly, since the #66 is basically held like a spokeshave, I have not noticed that "the #66 presents the blade to the work at an angle"; instead it presents to the work at variable angles. But ultimately the depth of cut it is set for defines the shape of the bead it cuts (have I explained this?).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: thoughts and suggestions

Ted Shuck

>Derek,

I think Bugbear's point was that the blade on a #66 is not bedded at 90 degrees to the "sole" of the beading tool. The blade is bedded at something like 10-20 degrees off of vertical. This makes the tool work in only one direction. The blade needs to be dragged over the work with the obtuse angle between the blade and bed presented to the wood. If the acute angle were presented to the wood, it would not scrape very well.

This angle also means that the profile of the cutter will not exactly match the profile scraped onto the wood. The profile on the wood will be slightly flatter, but by only about 5 percent for an estimated 18 degree bedding angle. I doubt that this will be noticable.

Ted, who likes his #66

Re: Ted said it all

paul womack

>

OK.

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>

Re: 66

TMStock

>The 66 cutter is supported to within a 1/4" or so of the sole when used as intended (one direction). The clamp maintains the depth setting and fixes the cutter to the body, but really does not contribute much to resistance to bending. More like a mini scraper plane than a scratch stock.

I assume Stanley angled the cutter to provide some bottom relief for softer stuff, and to reduce chatter during the first couple passes when the sole might not be in good contact with the stock. The blanks LN provides for shop-made cutters are unhardened, so probably does not hurt that they are a bit thicker. Might also help with dumping heat from the cutting edge, but I doubt it.

Re: 66

Mike G.

>Thanks everyone for their replies to my query. I guess sometimes being a bottom feeding Galoot doesn't pay off, LOL.

Mike G.