Planing End Grain (recommendation please)

Re: Planing End Grain (recommendation please)

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>LV low angle block is alot larger. I think control of a larger plane on endgrain is tricky I have tried to use the LV low angle smoother and found it's easier for me to control the smaller block planes. After planing a end grain cutting board I can see a need for a low angle jack.

Re: Planing End Grain (recommendation please)

Darrell in Oakville

>I use my Stanley #7 jointer plane for end grain. Yah, that's right, a standard 45 degree bench plane. Block planes are too small and light for planing end grain, in my experience. With a sharp iron backed up by the mass of the #7, it takes nice shavings off end grain. Everything from pine to hard maple. Have to plane from both ends towards the middle so you don't blow out the far end.

Darrell

Wood Hoarder, Blade Sharpener, and Occasional Tool User

Re: Planing End Grain (recommendation please)

Patrick Gibbons

>I agree with Darrell but I use a Millers Falls #10. I use the LN low angle jack sometimes and the block plane on smaller pieces. For larger pieces I like the control I get from being able to hold a plane with two hands.

Good advice on all scores

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>Planing from both ends toward the middle will save much grief, including getting down on all fours and looking through a pile of shavings to find the exact little chip you just knocked off the end (DAMHIKT). Luckily this only happens once, because you never go off the side again after that happens.

Low angle is always the thing that is discussed in regard to end grain (and IME it's a plus), but having a comfortably long registration surface ahead of the blade is more important in giving you a good entry to the cut. A Japanese plane is perfect for this, due to the low angle and long registration, but I understand that's not where you're going on this one. In any case, I would follow Darrell's advice and give some consideration to both mass and registration ahead of the blade.

Wiley

Beef Up Your Block! *LINK*

Frank Mutchler in Colorado Springs

>I love my LV LA Block. If I were experiencing the frustration you describe I would not hesitate to add the optional accessories available for the plane from LV.


Beef Up Your Block!

Re: Good advice on all scores

joel

>planing from both edges into the middle of course works but I've never really like that method. I always worry about forgetting and I like a continuous stroke. Also it's faster to do it from one side.

So - what I will do if the piece is too big for a shooting board is clamp a waste piece on one end that the smae hight and this is most important chamfer the end bit of the waste piece and plane both together. THe chamfer is the key. If the board is wider than needed I will just chafer on edge of the board and then plane and then trim to width.

(PS - for stuff like that I am partial to a panel plane for later pieces or a regular smoother for smaller ones.

One of the only reasons...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>why I'd ever consider getting one. It's not the same as a nice lever capped Stanley with a knob...

Scott, Still searching...

Re: Good advice on all scores

paul womack

>Low angle is always the thing that is discussed in regard to end grain (and IME it's a plus), but having a comfortably long registration surface ahead of the blade is more important in giving you a good entry to the cut.

I think you just specified the Veritas Low angle jack which fulfils both requirments.

BugBear

Bigger LN Block Plane?

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL

>If it is the Lie-Nielsen #102 Low-angle Block Plane that you have, it is 5-1/4 inches long.

The Lie-Nielsen #60-1/2 is 6-inches long, heftier, and fills the hand better:

And, of course, it has an adjustable mouth. If you want to stick with a one-hand solution, I think it perhaps would be a good choice.

Re: Planing End Grain (recommendation please)

Sgian Dubh

>Randy, just use a regular smoothing plane and hold it at an angle and plane away. The larger the angle the plane body is held away from the straight line of attack the lower the effective pitch is.

Also plane at an angle to the orientation of the growth rings. You'll soon know if you're planing the wrong way-- the wood won't cut cleanly and the plane will chatter-- you need a slicing action.

There ain't much to planing wood and simple tools well sharpened will do it. It's the brain behind the brawn that matters, not the perfect tool that solves the problem. Practice makes perfect, or so they say, ha, ha. Slainte.

LV LA jack

Robin Frierson

>I just got that plane and think I have found a new favortie end grain plane. Its awesone.

I do like Joel, if it dont fit the shooting board I take the time to clamp a skinny board on the end. Going in from both ends is quicker but its easy then to take more out of the middle.

Re: Planing End Grain (recommendation please)

Tom MacGregor

>I agree. I smoothed the ends of some through tenons this weekend with a Bedrock 604 + Scary Sharp Hock blade and chipbreaker. Held it at a good angle and it sailed right through leaving a nice smooth finish. The combination of Sharp + Rigidity + Mass + Shallow Cut = a good finish on just about everything I use it for. And I have a grand total of $110 into the plane.

Re: LV LA jack

Ted Shuck

>I got one of these for Father's Day, but did not have a chance to use it until yesterday. This is my new first choice for use on the shooting board. Wonderful transparent endgrain shavings!

Ted