Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Table Plane
Doug Reynolds
>I am taking a Shaker drop-leaf table class with Chris Beckvoort this summer. My research indicate that a table plane with fence is the preferred tool to make the rule joint or, a little more difficult, the table hollows and rounds. Looking at B&G I could not find table planes. Can anyone advise the Stanley model number for their table planes? Thanks.
Re: Table Plane
Steve Wargo
>I'm not familiar with a stanley rule joint plane, or a cutter set for the 45 or 55. You can purchase sets of rule joint planes from Tony Murland in the U.K. but they're fairly pricey. Hollows and rounds work fine, but can be a little skirmy to get just right.
It's a
Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA
>No 55. Stanley never planes to be this type of joint. You could probable pull it off with a combo plane.
Re: Table Plane
L. Hanson - N. Idaho
>"Table planes" - usually refers to a matched pair of wooden planes. One type looks like a hollow and a round plane (the radius is a bit different than an H&R - but they look very similar). There is also a rule joint plane that make a sort of an ovolo with a matching mirror to it for the other. A bit fancier, IMO, and a bit nicer.
The picture is from http://www.thebestthings.com/molding.htm
L. Hanson
www.norswoodsmith.com
I should add..
L. Hanson - N. Idaho
>I don't think stanley made a comparable dedicated metal version, but the 55 might have a set of cutters for the purpose...
Re: Table Plane
Alan Hamilton
>Doug,
Depending on how many drop-leaf tables you plan on making you might consider making a matched pair of scratch stocks. That's what I did recently.
I shaped a blank blade for my beading tool with the hollow on one end and the round on the other. I used a propane torch to harden them and annealed them in the oven.
I used a rabbet plane and a combination plane to remove as much wood as possible, and then began to work down towards the profiles with chisels and a gouge. When it got close I switched to the scratch stock.
I practiced on some scrap wood, which also showed me I needed to refine the shape of my cutters a bit. It was fun, and I was fairly pleased with the results.
Alan
What I did
jim_reed@marietta
>I just did some table rule joints on a Pembroke table. Check the archives <60da. I used a #45 with 1/8" plow, a #93 to cut the shoulder, and a set of H&Rs to finish it off. Took about two or three hours per side. Feel free to email if you have any particular questions.
Hey Jim,
Steve Wargo
>If you plan on doing many more you may want to invest in a set of fenced rule joint planes. I know that Todd Herli offers them. I was fortunate enough to pick up two, at different times and places that are a very close match. I can do both joints in about 25 minutes, and that includes a final scraping. That would certainly save a lot of time. I love rule joints.
Re: Hey Jim,
Steve Wargo
>Should probably mention, that I don't have Herli planes, they are a bastard set. But I've talked to a couple people that are quite pleased with his planes.
Angle?
jim_reed@marietta
>I discovered the beauty of the York pitch when using my H&R set. When working cherry & walnut the 50 degree pitch makes all the difference in the world. WHat pitch is your set? I might make me a set with the proper (what I want) pitch. Shouldn't be too hard.