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where to get diamonds

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where to get diamonds

#1

where to get diamonds

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>MSC, Travers, Enco all sell the paste. Occasionally they run it on sale and when they do it is a bargin. Lapidary supplies sell the powder that can be mixed with olive oil to make a paste. Ebay usually has some listings. Google lapidary suppliers for other sources. A good price is 1$ per carat. I had good experience with Reentel INFO@REENTEL.COM phone 630-321-0192.

Now a good question is what grits are essential. I use 60 micron a lot for initial material removal. It is recommended to reduce by 1/2, so the next would be 30. I think it may be possible to reduce by more than 1/2 and thereby reduce inventory of grits, but I have not studied this enough to offer a reliable recommendation. I hope someone will...........

Re: where to get diamonds

#2

Re: where to get diamonds

John Meikrantz

>Bill,

Can you comment on how you charge your plates with the diamond powder? Do you make a paste or slurry with olive oil, and how long does that last? Never having seen or worked with diamond powder or paste, I am having trouble picturing how the preparations are done. Also, some of the diamond paste sharpening "kits" that I've seen use MDF for the plate surface. Can you comment on using a much softer material like MDF vs. using cast or aluminum plates?

John

Re: where to get diamonds

#3

how to charge plates, substrate

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>It would be good if someone that does lapidary work would answer this question as they would have more experience. I'll say what I do but it may not be best, or even normal.

For the paste, I squirt about a 1/4" "worm" on the top of the plate and pull it down the plate with a gentle stroke of that to be sharpened. after sharpening a while it gets "dry" and I add a drop of mineral spirits to float some of the gunge away.

I have yet to use the powder as I have not run out of my first 5 mL of pastes. I was told by the company that sells powder that they charge their lapping plates with powder slurried in olive oil. My theory is that diamonds were historically polished in middle east so olive oil was a handy choice, but there my be a more scientific reason. Anyway, olive oil is an essential ingredient of pizza dough so I will always have some available. So, I guess when that day comes I will add a smidgen of powder to the plate plus a drop of oil and grind away. It takes but an astonishingly small amount of diamonds to be an effective grinding media which is why my tubes of smaller grit paste will last forever.

Substrates: I have used cast iron, copper,a worn out diamond "stone" and a piece of beech. there are all kinds of cast iron surfaces around the shop and I have employed several of them in addition to real surface ground cast iron plates made from cast bar stock. Historically cast iron is what has been used for a substrate for cutting diamonds so I presume it best.

the worn out diamond stone seems to be a bit too hard, at least for coarser grits.

the copper(an old circuit board) was not sufficiently flat but it worked ok

the beech took a lot of diamond to charge it. Compared to cast iron it cut like it was charged with a 2-4X smaller grit size. theory- diamonds embed deeper and hence "appear" smaller. I suppose MDF would work similar to beech but I have not tried it.

When I can get some I want to try plexiglas, or polycarbonate sheet, but I expect the embedding effect I saw with beech will show up here too.But I expect it will take less to charge.

I have not explored these issues thoroughly. I'll bet the lapidary folks know all that is needed to know about the topic. I can say that compared to anything else I have tried, diamonds on cast iron is very fast and very cheap, discounting the cost of the cast iron (I got my plates for free). We are investigating a source of long wide plates that we think will cost about $20 each. Will post results when we have them.

Re: where to get diamonds

#4

Re: how to charge plates, substrate

Patrick Gibbons

>Bill, I would be very interested in where you acquired good inexpensive cast iron plates. Please do post when appropriate.

Re: where to get diamonds

#5

Re: how to charge plates, substrate *LINK*

John Meikrantz

>Has anyone tried the kanaban (sharpening plates) from Japan Woodworker? Look like they would be well suited for a lapping surface, and are pretty reasonably priced.


Japan Woodworker Kanaban

Re: where to get diamonds

#6

Re: I feel a new investigation coming on...

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>lets see. We could compare the effectiveness of "extra virgin" to "virgin" olive oils, the importance of being cold pressed, Greek vs Spanish, vs Italian, vs domestic oils.

I'll set up the SPSS database and do the analysis if you want to conduct the trials (at least single blind).

:`) !

Re: where to get diamonds

#7

Re: I feel a new investigation coming on...

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>I think we can eliminate walnut oil right off the bat, as well as other hardening oils, like linseed and tung. Also, watch out for those transfats :^)

Re: where to get diamonds

#8

Re: I feel a new investigation coming on...

Greg Sloop

>Didn't you get the message.

Geeks that actually know how to run SPSS are not allowed by law to use woodworking tools!

You felon you!

I'll ring Herr...Ah...I mean Mr. Ashcroft in the morning.

Cheers,

Greg

Re: where to get diamonds

#9

Re: I feel a new investigation coming on...

Don Thompson - South of Miami

>I think we should include grapeseed oil.

Re: where to get diamonds

#10

question concering kanaban

Patrick Gibbons

>Are these cast iron or steel?

Re: where to get diamonds

#11

Re: question concering kanaban

joel

>Soft steel. On Toshio Odate's recommendation we got a bunch in and use them with diamond paste and I am totally sold. Much faster than anything else I have used, inexpensive, and we use the water base diamond paste which means after I am done can washe the tool and my hands and easily get everything clean.

Eventually I expect the plate to dish but is is cheap enough to replace.

I am only using the plate with the coarest grit paste I have, my feeling is that once I get a good reference regular stones are fine and the fewer grits of paste to have around the better.

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