Antique molding

Re: Antique molding

John K in Hastings, MN

>Occasionally you'll see a double or triple beading plane. But, I bet you'd be better off with a custom-cut scraper. You could also find a router bit (sacrilege!) with a triple bead profile and just use two of them.

John

Re: Antique molding

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>Richard If you can't find the exact moulding but can make something close and run it along the whole wall it tends to disappear. Where it stands out is where the two join but in the corner no one studies that section thier eye is drawn towards the middle of the wall. Chances are if there is a custom moulding place in town other houses have had trim replicated and someone will have something very close it's just tiring to find out who.

Scratch stock or beader

Jim Crammond in Monroe, Mi

>Richard,

Another way of duplicating a molding like you described is by making and using a scratch stock. Basically, these consist of a wooden fence holding a small scraper with the desired profile. Stanley (and now Lie Nielson) made a #66 hand beader that is a similar tool with the same function. I'm sure you can find some info about making a scratch stock in the archives here.

Both of these tools could be used for a small amount of molding, but if you need to duplicate more than 15' or so, a center bead or reeding plane would be the way to go. Either of these molding planes are probably available from old tool dealers on the net.

Jim Crammond

Re: Antique molding

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>The Stanley 45, a combination plane commonly available on the Internet, could take "reeding" irons, which produced two, three, or four beads next to each other, depending on the iron. The expense of buying one of these and a reeding iron would add up to eating all of your profit for the job and then some, though. I agree that a scratch stock might be the way to go - my limited use tells me they're not the best with softwoods, though.

If you think you'll be doing a lot of historic house restorations, a Stanley 45 might be worth it.

Re: Antique molding

Richard Gillespie

>I want to thank John, both Jims and Bill for your replies.

You have given me some excellent ideas on how to make this 9' +/- of baseboard molding I have to reproduce. I intend to make it out of Popular. The scratcher described, may not work as well on that soft a wood. However, it was an idea that I hadn't thought of.

Bill, thanks for the suggestion on the Stanley 45. I have one I inherited from my great grandfather. I've looked in the box two or three times but there are so many parts that are rusty and need cleanup that I always set it aside for another day. That may very well have come.

Again, thanks to everyone for your helpful replies.

Re: Antique molding

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>If you do decide to try the 45, let us know. There are some tricks to using it.

Re: Antique molding

Don Thompson - South of Miami

>First, if you can remove an intact piece of the baseboard that needs replacing, perhaps you could apply some stripper to enable you to closely examing the details.

Second, perhaps you can make or buy something like this beader from Lee Valley to do the job.

Here is some good info on making your own, on Bugbear's web site.

Re: Antique molding

Mike G.

>I wonder if those cutters from LV would work in a #66 beading tool?

Thanks, Mike G.

Re: Antique molding

Jim Crammond in Monroe, Mi

>Richard,

I meant to post this earlier, but I was sidetracked somehow. I agree with Bill, a 45 would be a good way of approaching this, the only drawback I see is that since you already have one you don't get to acquire another tool. I'm sure you will enjoy using a tool that was your Grandfather's, it is a great way to feel connected to him.

Reeding cutters should be available for a 45, if not, one would be pretty easy to make. Since you'll be working with poplar, the main draw back of a 45 (the lack of a tight mouth) is minimized.

Enjoy the new experience and as Bill said, if you have any questions, by all means, ask.

Jim Crammond

Custom blade

jim_reed@marietta

>There are people out there who will make custom cutters for the #45 and their prices are reasonable.

Agree and reinforce this point

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Richard

The #45 is likely the way to go (although a #66 Hand Beader runs a close second). This has so much more flexibility than dedicated wooden moulding planes (which are otherwise easier to use).

BUT learning to use a #45 is a very frustrating process UNLESS you are shown how to do so. For example, setting it for shallow cuts and, especially, you begin the cut at the end and finish it at the beginning (now THAT sounds provocative, yes?). It is not difficult really, and it can be one of the more rewarding planes to use. Certainly, if you plan to reproduce old mouldings, this (and the bigger brother #55) are essential equipment.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Oh! Yes!

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>On my recent porch project, I had to cut the rails, and wound up with a thin piece of stock with the profile of the original shape quite clear. If you're able to trim a piece off, it shouldn't be hard to see what your profile should be.

Re: Antique molding

Richard Gillespie

>To everyone who was kind enough to take the time to respond to my post on the antique molding, Thanks!

It looks like I'm going to have to clean up my great grandfathers Stanley 45 and sharpen the blades I need. In particular, thanks Bill Houghton for emailing me with the tips on using a 45. I'll buy enough popular to practice on. I also have a large supply of pine I can use to practice with.

Re: Scratch stock or beader

paul womack

>I'm sure you can find some info about making a scratch stock in the archives here.

Well, I've got a page about scratch stocks.

For 9 feet of moulding, I'd get some existing moulding (even a short broken scrap piece), paint strip it down to the original shape, and file a cutter.

I would then use as many "real" planes to remove as much of the waste from the moulding as possible. Rebate and plough planes are helpful for this, since their fences make them self controlling. It may be possible to use small shoulder planes (or a wooden skew rebate) to remove a little more waste.

Once you're as close to the final shape as you can (or dare!) get, you can use the scratch stock to finish.

Since (I assume) the base board will be painted, the relatively poor performance of scratch techniques on soft wood should be a big issue.

I have used all these techniques and tools to make skirting board (like baseboard only English ;-) in my own house.

BugBear

Custom Cutter for Stanley 45

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL

>If you do not feel up to doing it your self, perhaps Wood Central member Jim Reed (JimReed2160@msn.com) can whip one up for you. I have bought a couple of specialty blades from him, and they were quite nicely made.

LV Beading Tool Cutters & #66

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL

>I do not know, but I think that this subject has come up here before.

Re: Scratch stock or beader

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL

>Since (I assume) the base board will be painted, the relatively poor performance of scratch techniques on soft wood should be a big issue

Did you mean, should NOT be a big issue?

Re: oops - you're right, of course

paul womack

>

Re: Scratch stock or beader

Richard Gillespie

>As a back up to my Stanley 45, I've bought the Lee Valley Beader. I'm going to practice with both to see what gives me the best results. Since this is a painted baseboard and the rest is thickly covered in paint, I think I have some leeway.

Again thanks to everyone who has been so kind with their suggestions.