Re: Shellac questions...
Alan Hamilton
>Steve, sam
Yes. Adding a quantity of alcohol that's equal to the volumn in the can will halve the cut. As you know, a "cut" is determined by the weight of shellac dissolved in a gallon of alcohol--or the equivalent in whatever measure is used. A three pound cut is simply three pounds of shellac dissolved in one gallon of alcohol. So if you add another gallon of alcohol, you'll have three pounds of shellac dissolved in two gallons of alcohol, or a pound and a half for each gallon: i.e., a 1 1/2 pound cut.
I have to disagree with Sam. Even coats is the aim, and a thin shellac, like a 1 or 2 pound cut, is easier to apply than a heavier cut. A thin shellac will also penetrate better, which makes for a much better under-coat for any finish that follows. On splotch-prone woods, like pine or cherry, a "wash coat" of shellac, a 1 or 2 pound cut, is regularly used as a sealer under stains and varnishes to prevent such problems.
In my own work I always mix up about a 1 1/2 pound cut and I use it for all purposes. It's thin enough to be a very good wash coat, and if I'm using it as the finish, it's thick enough to build fairly fast. I've not seen the need to use a heavier coat, and the lighter coat avoids problems that can arise using a heavier coat, such as too much build at the edges, runs, and so on.
Jeff Jewitt recommends using a 2 pound cut for a wash coat, and I believe also for build coats; and IIRC Jewitt recommends a 1 pound cut for French polish. It's been awhile since I read his book, but I don't remember him using anything more than a 2 pound cut. As above, I don't see a reason to risk the troubles that a heavier coat can cause, when a thinner coat is easier to apply and builds quickly enough.
I love shellac. Probably my favorite finish is garnet shellac with wax over it, buffed to a glow. It's gorgeous on pine, oak and walnut.