L-N 140

You need

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Both! It just depends on which way your going around the block. Also pay the extra for the knickered version.

When did they start getting called "knickers?"

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I always thought the term was "nicker," which makes sense, since the purpose of the part is to "nick" the wood; and I've always believed "knickers" to be a synonym for "bloomers."

I'm trying to picture a block plane wearing underpants.

Re: L-N 140

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>It depends on what your intended use for the plane is focused on.

For just general use as a block plane it doesn't really make any difference which "Hand" it is.

For sizing cheeks on tenons, for which I consider the L-N 140 to be superb, a right handed person will most likely find the Left hand version of the #140 to allow for the most comfortable grip and best visibility.

For cleaning up or even forming most rebates, the Right handed version will most likely be preferable as it allows the fence to sit in the best position with respect to your dominant hand.

However, when forming rebates or raising panels and the like, a skewed angle plane is very sensitive to grain direction. You can get terrible tear out when trying to use a skew angle block plane against the grain, thus using a skew angle plane to form rebates along both the left and right side of the face of a board, requires approaching the grain from two different directions. Thus the desirability of having a matched pair. For cross grain rebates and other work, it won't make any difference.

Frankly, I virtually never use a #140 for rebate work, but use one all the time for the cross grain task of sizing cheeks. I managed to use a "wrong" handed #140 for a lot of years doing this and still prefered it for the task. I'm thrilled the left hand version has now come out, and it definitely makes the task easier and more comfortable, but having the perfect handed version never was and still isnt't essential.

Your absoulty right Bill...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>I guess you caught me with mine down! I'm sure our friends on the other side of the Atlantic are having a hay-day with me;)

Re: L-N 140

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>We've discussed this lots of times, in bits and pieces, and by now, most people here probably think I've gone off the deep end. I'll give you a summary, as I see it:

For planing end grain, like the end of a board, it doesn't make any difference, but you'd probably do that with the auxiliary side plate attached.

For planing in the direction of the grain, for example rabbets and raising panels, you need one of each, because performance depends on which direction the grain is rising and falling.

For trimming tenon cheeks, if you are left handed, you need the original; if you are right handed, you need the new one.

For trimming tenon shoulders, you need a shoulder plane, because the #140's blade will tend to split out the fibers at the surface, especially at the end of the cut. But if you insist on doing it with the #140, you would find that you have to pull the one you that you use for trimming the cheeks, instead of pushing it. Unlike a shoulder plane, this plane's shape is not well suited for pulling, so you still need both versions.

Re: L-N 140

Tony Z.

>Lynn, Bill, Scott, etc. thanks to all. My intended use is trimming cheeks on tenons and that was what I was thinking of when I posted my question earlier. As this is advance planning for father's day, I really don't think both are within the realm of happening, however, the new left hand version has got my name on it! Thanks to all.

Re: When did they start getting called "knickers?"

Brad in Ottawa

>I thought that's why Tool Companies started to sell plane socks!

Chisel to trim tenon cheeks

Stephen in Ottawa

>Tony,

I know this doesn't address your original question but I wanted to share my experience, so take my advice for what it's worth.

I find that the most useful tool for trimming tenon cheeks is a chisel. Ofcourse I am assuming the cheeks are sawn by hand. If they are machine cut, then a plane may be more appropriate since you probably need to remove an even thickness of wood across the entire cheek. For hand cut cheeks however, I find that greater local control of the tool is needed since smaller bumps may need to be removed, and a chisel excells at this. I find I use a chisel to trim the cheeks then I may use one or two passes with my shoulder plane to level things off evenly to the marking lines. Ofcourse the shoulder plane is also used to trim the shoulders square to the cheeks, if required.

- Stephen

Re: When did they start getting called "knickers?"

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>It also, of course, explains the garters on wood vise screws, and I'd better stop here, since this IS a family forum.