Stanley 5 1/2 Blade

Re: Stanley 5 1/2 Blade

David Linnabary

>Sounds like as good a time as any to upgrade to a Hock iron, beat the shipping and pick one up off the shelf at your Woodcraft.

David

Not found a 2 1/4" at Woodcraft

John, NY

>or at any of the other stores or catalogues.

Re: Stanley 5 1/2 Blade *LINK*

William Haun, Forest City, IA

>You could try Spehar Toolworks.


http://www.spehar-toolworks.com/blades.html

Re: Stanley 5 1/2 Blade

John Horobin

>I think Hock do them to special order or its not too difficult to grind down a 2-3/8 to fit. I've done this and it did not take long - keep cool while grinding.

John

Try a 2 3/8"

David Linnabary

>Seems like a 5 1/2 should take a 2 3/8" blade. Anyway it's a good first blade to get after market because you can try it in a 4 1/2, 5 1/2, 6 or a 7 so you can see how your other planes perform with the upgraded iron. Might consider an after market chip breaker as well.

David

Re: Try a 2 3/8"

John, NY

>It's a 2 1/4", a 2 3/8" does not fit. I had hoped it would be a 2 3/8" since I essentially use a #4.5, #5.5 and #7 which would mean I only had to buy 1 size of blade but unfortunately turned out to be a 2.25" and its such a nice plane...

And in reality I also have a #3, 4x#4, 2x#5, a #6 and several LN and LV so a single blade size isn't practical anyway...

John - I am NOT a collector! I am NOT a collector!

You can get a Hock 2 1/4" .... *LINK*

MikeL in SoCal

>.... iron from many sources. Follow below link for one option.

Cheers,

Mike


Hock 2 1/4"

Re: You can get a Hock 2 1/4" ....

John, NY

>Thankyou, that'll work...

Re: Try a 2 3/8"

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>If all else fails and you're patient, I suppose you could pick up a 2-3/8" and grind off 1/16" on each side.

I always figure if my planes have shavings in them, it proves I'm not a collector. I have to confess that lately, I've mentally extended this to, "...or will when I get enough round tuits."

And that brings me to another plane question...

John, NY

>I have an Anant [actually not a bad plane] #10 carriagemakers plane which has a blade wider at the business end than the other� is it supposed to be really difficult to get the blade out of it? I basically have to push the blade and chip breaker as far forward as they will go and undo the screw with a screwdriver held at an angle to the screw head/slot [which doesn�t do the screw any good]. Fiddle the screw out and then remove the chipbreaker and blade seperately.

Is this normal?

Re: Stanley 5 1/2 Blade

Roger Nixon

>As was posted below, Ron Hock is the only one I know of who makes a 2 1/4" blade. Pre-1931, IIRC, #5 1/2 used the 2 1/4" blade and after that they changed to the 2 3/8" blade used in the #4 1/2, #6, & #7. I personally like the 2 1/4" #5 1/2's as they seem to fit naturally in the gap between the #5 & #7.

Re: Stanley 5 1/2 Blade

John, NY

>Apparently Spehar toolworks do too but I would rather go with what I know and I do already have some Hock blades which I am happy with.

Re: And that brings me to another plane question..

Michael Kieta-Ramstein, Germany

>John,

I think your difficulty with the plane is not unusual. I have a 10 1/2 Stanley that gives me similar problems. Someone on this forum has a website description of how you can get it in and out without taking off the chipbreaker and without ruining your cutting edge, but I can't remember who. I end up struggling each time I take it in and out. I'm not much help, but at least you know you're not alone!

Michael

Re: And that brings me to another plane question..

MikeL in SoCal

>Mike Dunbar writes a little about this topic in his "Restoring and Using WW Tools" book (that's not the exact title but it's close). I have a Stanley #10 and I found that if I tilt the blade to the side at just the right angle, I can remove or replace the iron/chipbreaker as a single piece. It's not easy but it may work for the Anant as well.

Cheers,

Mike

Re: Also the 605-1/2

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I think all the 605-1/2s use a 2-1/4" blade, which was a little disappointing to me when I dragged home my $20 605-1/2 thinking the 2-3/8" Hock blade I have would fit it and my 4-1/2.

Rogers got it!

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Thanks, for saving me a seinor moment. Stanley changed the blade size along the way.

Re: And that brings me to another plane question..

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Try gently moving the iron and chipbreaker assembly out one side of the mouth. This may give you enough room on the other side to tilt the assembly up and kind of twist it out.

More easily done than described. Could you see my hands waving around gracefully?

Bill, sympathizing with radio announcers

Ron Hock

Jorge Castañeda~East Penobscot Bay

>I got mine from Ron Hock, works great!

Pre-1939 5-1/2's take the 2-1/4" blade

Todd Stock

>This was probably mentioned; however, if you want 2-3/8 (e.g., 4-1/2, 5-1/2, 7 combo), you'll need the newer (post 1939) plane.

Spehar T W Irons

Jorge Castañeda~East Penobscot Bay

>John,

I have a blade made by Vlad and it is first class, machined to perfection, you cannot go wrong. My blade is a 1/4" I use in a woodie. I also have Hock blades, both are good blades.

$0.02

Jorge

Hock Makes a 2 1/4"

David Linnabary

>

Re: And that brings me to another plane question..

David Linnabary

>Don't feel bad, I bought a new/old stock (read full length) replacement iron for my #10 and felt pretty silly relearning how to get that thing out of the plane from the top.

As described above, it's a bit of a puzzle trick, which is to say that if you're doing it right you won't have to force anything, it will just lift right out.

David

Re: Spehar T W Irons

David Linnabary

>I've tried Spehar's irons too and like them very much.

David