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First hand chopped mortise experience

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First hand chopped mortise experience

#1

First hand chopped mortise experience

Stephen in Ottawa

>Some of you may remember my post a few months ago asking for advise on mortising chisels. Well, I ended up getting a couple of old English 'pigsticker' type mortising chisels. These are great chisels and feel really good in my hands.

I just used one of them to cut some mortises in red oak for two baby gates I am building for our home. I really enjoyed the experience and the mortises are remarkably accurate. I used Adam Cherubini's gentle paring technique to get down about 1/2" deep, then resorted to chopping only because my mortises were a little over 1" long and it got difficult to pare the full length of the mortise beyond that depth due to the angle of the chisel. This, I suspect, is not a fault of the technique; I just have to devise a way to do it. Anyway, I really like the way the mortises turned out, though I couldn't get near Adam's time of 10 min. Took me just over 20 min. per mortise, though it got better and am sure I'll improve my timing even more.

I was feeling pretty good about this and just wanted to share!

- Stephen

Re: First hand chopped mortise experience

#2

Add another

jim_reed@marietta

>feather to your woodworker's cap. Good work.

Re: First hand chopped mortise experience

#3

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Angelo in Cornwall, NY

>Nice Stephen. I had a similar experience in a couple of projects in the past couple of months. In softwoods, I find that I'm already faster chopping mortices then using the DP or a brace and then paring. Unlike Adam, however, I generally pound them out.

Re: First hand chopped mortise experience

#4

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Stephen in Ottawa

>I used to drill and pare before, but found I couldn't get the mortise walls accurately parallel. I find I am faster and more accurate with the technique I'm using now.

- Stephen

Re: First hand chopped mortise experience

#5

Me too,

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Unlike you I use Japanese mortice chisles now. I use to use pig stickers but they were hard to get my paws around. Much faster than drilling and pairing. All though on thru mortices I might drill it out using a smaller bit and then mortice the way you describe. Much strighter walls.

Depending on the mortice I'll attack the Adam C. way or mallet them. Congrats! You'll only get faster now.

Re: First hand chopped mortise experience

#6

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Alan Hamilton

>Stephen,

DAMHIKT, making a mortise is not a drag race. The time spent doesn't matter, just the results. I've fallen into that trap far too many times; the notion "this is taking too long" I now banish from my mind. Surprise, my mortises have gotten better (N.B., I did not say they are "good").

Alan

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#7

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Brad in Ottawa

>Stephen,

Great job! It sounds like you have some great mortises, who cares about it taking 20 minutes!

Brad

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#8

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Dave W

>Is the 'gentle paring technique' described in one of the woodcentral articles? Where can I find the description?

thanks,

Dave W.

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#9

Re: First hand chopped mortise experience *LINK*

Stephen in Ottawa

>http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/archives_handtools.pl?read=24527

Re: First hand chopped mortise experience

#10

Thanks for the Pointer!

Dave W

>

Re: First hand chopped mortise experience

#11

Time

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Gents,

I post "time to beat" not to be competitive, but to give you a sense for roughly how long something should take. If you are much slower, you may find you can improve your technique or tools. If you are faster, you should be sharing your techniques with us.

I would have given my eye teeth for this information 10 years ago. I had no idea how to use my tools, which tools were used for what, and practically no dependable recorded source. Most of what I learned I learned on my own, with your help. (There is no single relevant book) I remain motivated to share my findings with you investors who taught me.

Along those lines, I recently spent a good amount of time researching how long it took John Head (active 1718-1754) to make a specific piece (which I recently copied). Coming up with time spent is very difficult, and very speculative. But I used the times I came up with to validate my techniques and workmanship. It might be worth noting that despite my impressive collection of very sharp tools and streamlined objectives, John Head beat me by several days. I hope to make another similar piece to see if I can achieve Head's speed.

In general, here a few specific "times to beat":

Dovetailed carcass from rough sawn stock = 4-6 hours.

Complete carcass with drawer blades/runners = 1 day

1 drawer, half blinds in front, complete = 1 to 1-1/2 hours (I can't do it).

Complete chest of drawers, moldings, bracket or bun feet, 4-5 drawers, all hardware installed including a half a day for finishing = 1 week max (That week was probably 6 days for John Head.)

Time spent on sub-processes like mortises are very important. I evaluate different techniques to see which one is:

a) faster

b) meets the goal faster

The technique I recommend for mortising is slower than some others, but the final result is always perfect and thus often faster overall. Cabinetry aside, when I'm making mortises, I'm making 16 mortises. So an extra 10 minutes per may make the difference between finishing today and not finishing today.

I don't want you to rush, or feel bad if you are slow. I want you to have the data I have so you can evaluate the effectiveness of your techniques. Rushing is not the solution. That's how you cut yourself. Relying on your tools, getting your tools to work together, working with your tools to meet reasonable expectations, challenging arbitrary requirements (working parametrically) are the keys to working quickly. In my opinion, these are the secrets masters kept.

I hope this helps you,

Adam

Re: First hand chopped mortise experience

#12

Get good first, then speed will follow...

GolfSteve in Calgary

>If you try to be fast before you get the technique correct, you're going down the wrong path.

If you get good at something (ie. lots of practice), one day you'll suddenly notice that not only are you good, but that you're fast also.

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.